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I actually prefer a slight overcast, direct sunlight tends to make everything harsh. Not to mention blow out the helmets and front fenders while leaving the riders chest in shadows. You'd made a comment about mine being full of color, make the light work to your advantage.thanks alot.. i will be shooting some more dirtscooters today hopefully we can get some sun out here ...
Yeah I'm usually at 1/1250 - 1/1600 while shooting outdoors. Indoors can be a challenge to keep sharp though, especially at Arenacross and their crappy lighting. The Arenacross event last weekend was especially bad (old venue), 1/500 and ISO 2000 barely got you by.Nice set.
I agree with everyone else on the vignette, definitely suggest scaling it back and preferably eliminating the vignette's altogether.
I'm also with DBA on the panning, only do that in moderation, meaning don't do it very often. Motocross is typically shot with very fast shutter speeds so the rider, bike, and roost are all sharp. Bonus points if you're able to get the riders eye's and they're visibly sharp as well. Go look at the works of well known motocross photographers like Simon Cudby and Steve Bruhn (godspeed) and you'll rarely ever see any panned shots, they're all shot with fast shutter speeds and everything in the image is sharp as a tack.
tried somthing different today more to come later
Great use of the light! You can have a lot of fun early morning/late evening when the track isn't fully lit.canon 70-300 is usm f 4-5.6
a bw shot
I can't remember, do you have an off camera flash? If you don't I'd suggest getting one once funds permit as you can get some cool shots with it. For example take that last photo above, drop the overall exposure a tad so that the area around the sun isn't completely blown out (or wait until it's just below the horizon). Then either have a buddy hold your flash or put it on a tripod and get a little fill flash on the rider.had a chance to try out the fisheye anda the 50 f 1.8 yesterday