My Darkroom setup - What could I be doing better?

[vimwiz]

What could I be doing better? - This is my Darkroom setup:

My process for Ilford HP5+ @ 400 ISO (I used the AP Darkroom Film Kit - it was okay). I then used the following chemicals:

First I used Ilford Ilfotec LC29 Film Developer, 500ml - This is very economical due to its high dilution ability. Used 1+29 dilution. Developed for 9 minutes at 20 degrees C.
I needed around 300ml of each of the chemocals made up. Also, had it at 21 C to factor for it to cool.

I agitated during development by turning the tank upside down four times durin every 10 seconds at the start of every minute to agitate the developer, including tapping it on the bench to dislodge any air bubbles. I pour this developer away.

I then used Ilford Ilfostop Stop Bath , 500 ml. This is a low odour citric acid stop bath. The indicator dye changes colour from yellow to purple when it is exhausted. Dilutes at 1+19. 20 degrees C for 10s minimum. I agitated by turning the tank upside down twice. Poured it out. Also, time is not critical here so long as over 10s.

Next, I used Ilford Rapid Fixer, 500 ml. This is a rapid non-hardening fixer. Dilutes at 1+4. 20 degrees C for 3-5 mins. Time also not critical here so long as over 3 mins. Agitate during this phase as during development. I pour this away if its polluted with developer.

Finally, I wash in water, and now the film is fixed, I removed the tank lid and inverted the tank 5 then 10 then 20 times (Or wash for 5-10 mins in running water at 20 degress). I added some Ilford Ilfotol Wetting Agent Liquid from a 1 litre bottle - Ilfotol can be used as a final rinse to reduce drying marks. I use a solution of 5ml of the wetting agent for each litre of rinse water (1+ 200) and stir. Squeegee and hang.

Thats it!

But what can I do better?

 

[vimwiz]

Better developer, maybe? - ID11 at 1+3 for 20 mins? - 1l of ID11 powder is like £6 isntead of £20?

 

[ann]

How are the results?

There are also different opinions when it come to developers,

What are you using when squeezing, fingers only is the best with no chance of damaging the film

 

[vimwiz]

I'm squeegeing.

it just seems too contrasty and underexposed?

 

[timor]

Don't squeegee.
When you said "darkroom setup I figured a darkroom. But no, what you have is only a film developing sequence. One out of many, many thousands possible. Relax man, it seems, that you are tense even, when only talking about it.
First of all accept it; you will not master film development at once. You will make mistakes, without them you won't learn. Just each time figure out the cause.
Second; there is nothing wrong with LC29, this is an excellent general purpose film developer. The dilution you used is an equivalent of HC 110 dilution B, most popular dilution in the world. ( That's why I am not using this dilution , same with D76 or ID11.)
Now what do you mean by "contrasty and underexposed" ? How do you know it is underexposed ?
Again, what your method of using a negative ? Scan or enlarging ? There maybe different preferences for density and contrast for scan or enlarger.
Your agitation method is very vigorous one, it will caused some over development and increase the contrast. Reduction in time might help with the first, but slowing down the agitation may have better effect. Overturning the tank is anyway outdated, hash method, a tradition from times, when tanks were very cramp inside like still in use metal tanks, where spinning is impossible.
Aha, if you are using short stop with an indicator, rather don't count on indicator. It changes colour, but usually too late.
Question: why your fixer should ever be contaminated by developer ? Short stop is taking care of any buffers from developer. Film like HP5+ fix for at least 4 min. in fresh fixer and no more, than 6 min. Don't overuse the fixer as it will contain more and more water unsolvable salts. Those will contaminate the emulsion and will withstand the wash and will destroy your negative 5-7 years later. The best way, to flush them out of emulsion is a bath in a weak solution of sodium sulfit (20g/l), but not everyone has that. So be careful with over fixing.
Observe the action of your wetting agent, if is not leaving a nasty spots on the film . (If you squeegee film maybe not, but don't squeegee.)

 

[gsgary]

Try 1+ 9 for 6.5 mins and reduce your agitation to 3 inversions every min and continuos for first 30 seconds and stop bath for 1 minute, to reduce contrast when you have a contrsty scene overexpose and underdevelope, and dull scenes do the opposite

 

[vimwiz]

Ill try the different dilution, and reduce the agitation. Ive been following the Ilford darkroom book (the 80s hardback one)

I scan the negs (using same settings I used for scans of lab processed rolls of same film)

Cant afford an enlarger

 

[Derrel]

Well, you ARE listening to some kick-ass music while developing and washing the film, right? I mean...you DO have "some tunes" playing, right? And by kick-ass I mean something GOOD...not some lo-bitrate MP3s of Mumford and Sons made from some off-kilter Irish music festival live show recorded off a buddy's Olympus mini-recorder, and most certainly not some old, live, bootleg Amy Winehouse rubbish stolen from a soundboard tape-- but something totally amazeballs, you know.

 

[vimwiz]

Well, you ARE listening to some kick-ass music while developing and washing the film, right? I mean...you DO have "some tunes" playing, right? And by kick-ass I mean something GOOD...not some lo-bitrate MP3s of Mumford and Sons made from some off-kilter Irish music festival live show recorded off a buddy's Olympus mini-recorder, and most certainly not some old, live, bootleg Amy Winehouse rubbish stolen from a soundboard tape-- but something totally amazeballs, you know.

Oh yes, I cant stand MP3s (FLAC!). I must have a thing for expensive analog hobbies, as I also love hi fi and have a nice turntable - my musical prefrences are mostly on the heavier side, and most definately kick ass .

+1 for use of amazeballs.

 

[Josh66]

I get pretty thirsty developing film. I make sure the fridge is well stocked with beer before starting.

Whatever your beverage of choice is, make sure you have plenty of it.



Also, try this. Take your normal dev time, add 50%, then agitate continuously for the first minute, then only 10 seconds every 3 minutes.


A 'regular' dev time of 10 minutes becomes 15 minutes - agitation 0-1 minute, then 10 seconds at the 4, 7, 10, and 13 minute mark.

 

[gsgary]

Well, you ARE listening to some kick-ass music while developing and washing the film, right? I mean...you DO have "some tunes" playing, right? And by kick-ass I mean something GOOD...not some lo-bitrate MP3s of Mumford and Sons made from some off-kilter Irish music festival live show recorded off a buddy's Olympus mini-recorder, and most certainly not some old, live, bootleg Amy Winehouse rubbish stolen from a soundboard tape-- but something totally amazeballs, you know.

Oh yes, I cant stand MP3s (FLAC!). I must have a thing for expensive analog hobbies, as I also love hi fi and have a nice turntable - my musical prefrences are mostly on the heavier side, and most definately kick ass .

+1 for use of amazeballs.

Ive got a nice Pink Triangle turntable

Sent from my GT-I9100P using Tapatalk 2

 

[webestang64]

Oh yes, I cant stand MP3s (FLAC!). I must have a thing for expensive analog hobbies, as I also love hi fi and have a nice turntable - my musical prefrences are mostly on the heavier side, and most definately kick ass .

Got this before it went into the dumpster. Sherwood ST-875. New belt, new dialed in cartridge.......rocking Rush "Signals" LP.

 

[vimwiz]

Ive got a Rega, planar 3.

Wow this conversation got sidetracked

Shot some film today (got a new t90 body in the post)

Will process tomorrow and let you know.

 

[vimwiz]

Aha! Your tips worked. Before, it was washed out in places, but with random bits of very high contrast, now its nice and even. I guess it was my agitation method?

Thanks for all the tips!

Oh, and my deck

 

[Josh66]

Aha! Your tips worked. Before, it was washed out in places, but with random bits of very high contrast, now its nice and even. I guess it was my agitation method?

Try the "minimal agitation" method I mentioned above. Seriously. I think you'll like the results. "Normal" dev time +50%, agitation for 10 seconds every 3 minutes, with 1 minute of agitation in the beginning. It's worked like a charm every time I've tried it.