My first darkroom prints

[JoL]

Thanks for all the comments.
This is the second time I printed anything in the darkroom, so there's not much to compare it to. I'm using a Minolta Himatic 7s.
I will do a test print for red light safety and one just exposing the paper without a negative to look for light inconsistencies.
Before switching to processing b&w film myself I got rolls of color print film developed and scanned at Walgreens. They came out pretty nice without any streaks, so I won't start worrying about the camera yet. I'll definitely start at the end of the process with investigating the print process. After that, trying a different kind of film would probably be my next focus.

I'm not frustrated at all about the results. Up until now I had way too few problems with shooting and processing film.
Keep posting if you have any other ideas and suggestions. I'll let you know once I found out more.

JoL

 

[Gavjenks]

That looks similar to something I've had happen in large format developing when I first started, where I used plastic tubes with one sheet in each of them. I got a stripe just like that if I leave any (even dim) lights on during processing. The tubes are all sealed, painted and wrapped in black duct tape to stop light coming through, but it still does on the thinnest part of the tube (after where the cap overlaps) nearest the light, and leaves that streak.

Over the course of minutes and minutes, even a little bit of light bouncing several times through an S curve or through thick material can affect your negative significantly.

I don't think you mentioned what physical device you were using to hold the film during development. Some sort of reel and tank dealie? Are you leaving full room lights on once it's in the tank or something? Or are you leaving "safelights" on if it's not a sealed tank?

For agitation, there's not really any need to have any lights on at all (kind of makes it more tedious to be in pitch dark, but whatever. Play some good tunes), and that might fix the issue.

 

[JoL]

So I spent some more time in the darkroom today. Significant other has to work late these days, i.e. I can use the bathroom off label a little more often
I took an old totally ruined color negative (developed by Walgreens) and made a print. This is the result.



Of course it's a crappy image and not very sharp. But I felt that the texture or grain size was much improved compared to my own developed b&w film. Printing should not be the issue.
Then I took another negative of the same roll of film, but at the other end of the roll, to see if the location in the tank could have made a difference.



And this picture tells a lot in my opinion (aside the big water spot, I didn't care too much about the final outcome).
I think that this supports the light leak hypothesis during development of Gavjenks. The quality of the print significantly increases at the vertical edges (contrast as well as grain, blotchiness).
I guess that's a good thing, since developing in the dark is an easier fix than buying new paper, developer, film etc...
Does anyone have a different opinion? Otherwise I'll try developing a roll in the dark with everything else staying the same.

Edit: Btw, I printed the second photo twice to rule out print process variation. It came out exactly the same.

Edit2: I just noticed that I totally ignored your questions, Gavjenks. I am using a Paterson plastic tank with two 35mm reels (I only used one). I developed the film in a well lit room after putting the film into the tank in the dark. Maybe my room wasn't dark enough either during loading the tank. This should be the most critical step I guess.

 

[Derrel]

Did you develop the prints in the try face-down, and with good, consistent print agitation? My hunch is that you're developing your prints face-up, and might have a very slightly "unsafe" safelight that is slightly fogging the paper.

 

[JoL]

I had exactly the same thoughts, Derrel. That's why I developed the last print 2 times. The second time I put the emphasis on holding it submerged in the developer, but the result was exactly the same.
A safelight test was performed as well. I exposed the paper to the safe light for 2x what it usually sees and the paper was as white as a new one.

 

[dxqcanada]

I am going to make a guess ... incorrect dilution with poor agitation ?
Kinda looks like the centre of the film is under developed ... not enough developer is not getting to that area or getting exhausted there too quickly.

I have never used Arista stuff ... what is the noted dilution for that developer ? Is there a data sheet for it ?

 

[timor]

I have never used Arista stuff ... what is the noted dilution for that developer ? Is there a data sheet for it ?

It is here:
Arista Premium Developing Times | Freestyle Photographic Supplies
If the centre of the film is underdeveloped it will be easily visible on the neg. What makes me curious is the circle on the left edge just above the building in the last picture. Is this on the print ?
In any case with agitation every minute such a unevenness is kind of dramatic. I am myself very light "agitator" - semistand guy using very low dilutions, never got neg developed so unevenly.
One more question, this last frame, is this full frame ? Or vertical cut out from horizontal frame ?

 

[Gavjenks]

Definitely do one in complete darkness. Or flip the lights on very briefly when switching liquids if you must to avoid a mess, but then turn them off during all the long minutes of agitating and waiting. If it's a light leak somehow, the difference should be blatantly obvious.

Another possibility is maybe this film doesn't fit properly, or something, and the film is bending against the wall of the tank for whatever reason? (I've never used that kind of tank, dunno). Could stop the flow of developer if so, and would explain a big stripe down the middle that fades out to the sides. Could also show up on multiple pieces of film in the roll, one that's at that point in the tank of maybe 180 degrees from it as you spiral around.

An amazon reviewer of the tank also wrote this that might be relevant:
"ADJUSTING THE REEL
Once you know how, this is VERY easy. I didn't have instructions with my purchase (an oversight I was assured) and there really aren't any resources on the web. To adjust the reel for 120 film etc, hold both sides of the reel and turn clockwise with force. You will hear a squeak and a click, at which point you can pull the halves apart to adjust. Once you have it at the desired width, turn the opposite way to lock, again waiting for the squeak and click! And you're done!"


Maybe you are closing it but not fully clicking it? Thus potentially light leaks due to that?

 

[AlanO]

Here's my WAG... Were you wearing a wrist watch while loading the neg on the spool? I've never had a watch issue but I've had my cell phone light up a couple of times while developing..

 

[timor]

Maybe you are closing it but not fully clicking it? Thus potentially light leaks due to that?

For sure not, but Patterson tank, heavily used one, may have ability to leak the light thru the joint of tank and cover. I have such a one, but it is of the older System 4 type, not the current type.

 

[Gavjenks]

I don't mean to be patronizing! As mentioned, I haven't used that type before, and don't know whether that would be a ridiculously stupid mistake to make, or something fairly possible. But somebody thought it was worth mentioning and it was a highly rated review, so *shrug*

 

[timor]

^^^ It looks to me more like a light leak in camera, than processing error. It will be good if OP would expose another film but seal the the edges of the back door of his Himatic with black, electrical tape. This is pretty old camera and seals on Minoltas are just not withstanding the time. (Never designed for that.) And then do the developing in room with subdue light. I cover top of my tank with lid between agitations.

 

[timor]

One more question. Which model of Patterson tank are you using ?
1. System 4 ? Like that ?

Or 2. Super System 4. Like that .

The whole story about Patterson developing tanks.
Paterson Developing Tanks

 

[JoL]

- The huge water spot was there during scanning, because I didn't dry and clean the test print perfectly
- I did not wear a watch etc., but I'll double check possible light leaks in the darkroom while loading the film
- I am using the Super System 4

I don't think it's a camera problem, since my color negatives came out fine. I just taped the back of the camera nevertheless and exposed a roll of film. Tonight I can develop the film and will do as much as possible in complete darkness.

 

[timor]

I don't think it's a camera problem, since my color negatives came out fine. I just taped the back of the camera nevertheless and exposed a roll of film. Tonight I can develop the film and will do as much as possible in complete darkness.

My Minolta SrT (second hand) was fine for some number of rolls until one day I noticed streaks on the neg. They were just on the last frames of the rolls so I blamed bromide drag. When I got oblique "bromide drag" I blamed tank. I changed the tank to super system 4. When problem persisted I just taped joints in back door and problem disappeared. Light leaks in old cameras may come suddenly.
How is your tank and the funnel - lid ? When you closing the click is strong or very light ? After closing how much vertical play has the lid ?