My first developed film

Rollei12

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[sorry for the bad "microsoft paintshop" resizing efforts!]

So here are two exposures of my first roll of self-developed film. Please give some critique.

Developer was Ilford Ilfosol 3 at 1+9 for 290 ml (29 ml of developer + 261 ml of water) for 7 min. (7 min was off Ilford site)

Please note the weird mid-tones in the bottom left of the sheet photo. What might have happened there? Part of the right side of the chair photo, note the light mid-grey section, very strange "pop up" feeling. Should I leave it in the developer longer? Any other areas you see problems? Anything good?

Kodak stop bath - 1 min.

Ilford Rapid Fixer 1+4 for 290 (58 ml of fixer + 232 ml of water).

Paterson tank under running water for 5 min.

Sat in filtered water for 2 min.

Hung for 1 hour.
 

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What is the film?
 
I see what you mean in the sheet photo, not sure I see it in the chair photo. Looks almost like a part of the negative didn't get fixed enough. Do the negatives look foggy? Any weird discoloration?
 
I see what you mean in the sheet photo, not sure I see it in the chair photo. Looks almost like a part of the negative didn't get fixed enough. Do the negatives look foggy? Any weird discoloration?

I've only scanned 10 exposures. I don't really want to waste 2 or so hours scanning the whole roll. I'll turn down the resolution tomorrow and scan some other ones though.

For the most part, the other 8 of the ones that I did scan looked similar to these two. Some turned out even better.

For my next roll, I'll maybe add more fixer?

One thing I did in the Paterson tank is that I didn't invert it, I only rocked the spool back and forth with the included "twist stick". Was this a bad move?
 
I come up with developing time of 6:30 at 20°C.
 
I've never used that swivel/twisty thing with Paterson tanks.

Ilford says:

Invert the tank four times during the first 10 seconds. Repeat these four inversions during the first 10 seconds of each subsequent minute of development. At the end of each agitation sequence, tap the tank firmly on the work bench to dislodge any air bubbles which may be trapped in the processing spiral. This method of agitation should also be used with the fixer.
 
Not over-developed, but there's something uneven about it. It might be caused by your agitation. I do two complete inversions every 0:60. But I'm familiar with your tank, so I can't comment on it.

Do the clear (under- and un-exposed) areas near the middle of the film not appear totally transparent, relative to the edges of the film? Do it still have a gray, foggy look to it down through the length of the film?
 
I always scan at 1200 dpi when I'm first scanning a roll of film. I find this to be more than adequate for computer use. If I decide I want to print or crop heavily, that's when I'll rescan at a higher resolution. Otherwise, it'll take you forever!

There are a lot of opinions about agitation. I tend to do a combination of inversions and twists of the stick when developing, though it also depends on the film.

You can re-fix a roll of film. I have to do that myself. Actually forgot about it until just now :)
 
I've never used that swivel/twisty thing with Paterson tanks.

Ilford says:

Invert the tank four times during the first 10 seconds. Repeat these four inversions during the first 10 seconds of each subsequent minute of development. At the end of each agitation sequence, tap the tank firmly on the work bench to dislodge any air bubbles which may be trapped in the processing spiral. This method of agitation should also be used with the fixer.

I'm scared about inverting my Paterson tank because the lid doesn't seal definatly. It's like I have to play with it to fit it on. If I don't do that it'll leak :aiwebs_016: Maybe it just needs to be softened up a bit?
 
All my Paterson tanks leak a bit ... that's what my sink is for.
I just make sure I put more developer in to compensate.
 
Not over-developed, but there's something uneven about it. It might be caused by your agitation. I do two complete inversions every 0:60. But I'm familiar with your tank, so I can't comment on it.

Do the clear (under- and un-exposed) areas near the middle of the film not appear totally transparent, relative to the edges of the film? Do it still have a gray, foggy look to it down through the length of the film?

For my next roll, I'll try inverting perhaps if water tests prove okay and it doesn't leak.

I didn't know what you were talking about till I put another un-scanned exposure track to my computer screen. The "lightest" parts of the photo appear to be darker than the touchable outsides of the film where all that info is. Is that not good? Is that what you are considering "foggy"? The tiny areas between the photos appear "burnt", if you get what I mean...now I'm worried...
 

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