Need Help with Hasselblad Pricing

Discussion in 'Collector's Corner' started by Oculus, May 3, 2017.

  1. Oculus

    Oculus TPF Noob!

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    Gotta love an air cooled flat 6! Well, those are definitely nice, but I am more of an SR 71 Blackbird kind of guy. ;) But yeah, it seems like we really are similar. :D

    Those are some great images!

    For the CLA I know there is a place not too far away from me. Those guys actually fixed the most expensive Leica, so I can probably trust them, but they are incredibly expensive. They charge 120 per hour, and I am sure a CLA takes a while. Luckily, there is another place that seems to be very popular and they seem to be doing a great job as well.

    Do you know of any arguments that could potentially bring down the price? :D


     
  2. Dave Colangelo

    Dave Colangelo No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Unfortunately I only hold a single engine license so flying the SR-71 is out for now and ill have to stick to my Pipers (not that I havent tried to ask...).

    It sounds like they know their stuff however some might say to go to a hasselblad guy as knowing a camera can be different than knowing all cameras. But either way its worth asking if they have worked on a blad before handing it over.

    When I sent mine in it got a CLA and some repairs and took about 6 weeks. But it was one guy so i assume the going was slow as a result of that. A well staffed shop that knows what they are doing may be faster.

    There are a few things you can check if you can see it in person,
    1. The rear shutter curtain (top shutter to be specific). the blads have a rear (non timed) shutter curtain in the back of the body (where the film mag mounts) due to the main shutter being in the lens. When the camera is triggered the top shutter curtain moves up under the mirror. Since the mirror is fairly heavy it can over time cause the top curtain to bend out of place. If you trigger the camera with no film back on and hold down the trigger you can observe the curtain to make sure it opens all the way.
    2. Make sure the crank is advancing and cocking the camera properly (shutter opens, mirror goes down etc).
    3. The cranks have a cam that prevents them from back winding while winding a new frame. If you let go of the crank half way through a wind it should stay in place.
    4. The lenses should be COMPLETELY fungus free at that price and show not even hint of scratching or anything like that.
    5. Price considered I would expect all the leatherette on the body to be in very good shape, no pealing bubbling etc.
    6. All shutter speeds should function, check the low ones for stickiness as you will be able to hear it.
    7. make sure the mirror is clean and actuating properly.
    8. The film backs should cycle through all the frame numbers with out hesitation.
    9. The metal back inserts should be appropriately numbered for the back in question.
    10. The focusing screen should be clean and free of fogging/scratches

    Regards
    Dave
     
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  3. Oculus

    Oculus TPF Noob!

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    Well the Pipers are certainly very charming, so I wouldn't mind flying one of those, if I had the chance to.

    Thanks for all the info! Yeah, if I really go for this camera I will make sure to check it out in person. I messaged the seller about the price, so I am still waiting for his reply, and I will post an update once he replies. I am actually wondering if he will reply at all. Judging by the previous message, he really seems to be dead set on selling it at that price.
     
  4. Dave Colangelo

    Dave Colangelo No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Charming is a good way to describe them haha. On any note keep us in the loop of what the seller says. If this deal does not work out I would seriously consider thinking about assembling one piece by piece. it will take a bit longer but you will really be able to get what you want. At minimum a body, the 80mm and 2 backs is a good start (i like having a B&W and a color back loaded up). I would take a look at the ELM body. A lot of people dont like it since it is not a "pure" all mechanical body however this has kept the prices of them low and attainable. You can get a good 80mm C or C T* era lens for very reasonable (under 200 if you are patient) and backs can be had for $50-$75.

    Regards
    Dave
     
  5. Oculus

    Oculus TPF Noob!

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    The ELM is nice, but like you said, they aren't fully mechanical. Doesn't mean that they are bad, but I just want a camera, that can be fixed if something breaks. Unfortunately, the older an electronic systems gets, the more difficult it becomes to get it fixed. Although, I don't know much about the electronics in the ELM, so I could be wrong. I also looked at the prices of each individual, and it doesn't seem like I would save much.

    Oh, and I also got a reply from the seller. So the camera is from 2002, however he purchased it completely new in 2005. As of now, the most he got offered for it is 2100 euros. So right now I'm thinking about going in for 2200 euros, since it is an "older" system, so it probably needs a CLA. Although, I do wonder if he got offered that much. :D
     
  6. Dave Colangelo

    Dave Colangelo No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    I totally understand what you are saying about the ELM's. But the truth is that the people who can service these cameras are slowly passing on with time. Unfortunately few people from the younger generation are joining their ranks and thus these trades are dying. Ill admit I have tried to fix this kind of stuff a few times but the truth is I am no master, not even an apprentice. Either way the ELM does provide a nice way to break into the blad system for a bit less than its all mechanical counterparts. I would say the ELM has no more or less special parts than the all mechanical V cameras and as long as corrosion is avoided they will last just as long. Since you can run them on a 9V battery with proper converter they are still more than useable.

    I would say there is a slim chance he has been offered that (the real question being why didn't he sell it) but who knows. Thats a fairly new system either way, in the nature of 20 years newer than my C/M so you may not need a CLA. While a CLA is never a bad thing if the foam is in good shape and everything is working nicely I would shoot a few rolls with it then send it off. Good luck with it all! Let us know how it goes.

    Regards
    Dave
     
  7. Oculus

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    Sorry for the late reply! For some reason it always took this guy a week to reply. And every time he replied to one of my messages, the price went up. Unfortunately, I haven't found any other good deals, so I decided to go with the Mamiya RB67 Pro SD. While it might be a lot heavier and even less suitable for street photography than the Hasselblad, it is still a nice "little" camera with superb optics (from what I have read and heard). And since the Mamiya is a lot cheaper than the Hasselblad, I have enough cash left to get myself an enlarger that can do 4x5, and of course a large format camera along with it.

    Dave, I really wanted to thank you for all your input! Really helped me out a lot! Even though I decided to go with another system for now, I will definitely get a Hasselblad sometime in the future and this thread will help me out quite a bit! And sorry again for the late reply! :D
     
  8. Dave Colangelo

    Dave Colangelo No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Sounds like you ended up with some solid gear in the end anyway! Im excited to hear about the results.

    The blads are nice and the prices are always coming down. There are plenty out there so there is always tomorrow.

    Dave
     
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