Nikon 50mm 1.4D vs 1.4G

[vsliceee]

I'm currently using a 50mm 1.4D on my Nikon D7000
I recently picked it up about 3 weeks ago, and used it for the first time a few days ago
I noticed that at f/1.4-2.5 the photo seemed really..soft, the focusing wasn't just up to my pleasure.
So I was wondering, should I just sell the lens and maybe upgrade to the 1.4G? I have a 35mm f/1.8 lying around too that I might be selling along with the 1.4D IF I do sell it in order to upgrade.

Just wanna make sure going through the hassle of selling the two lenses is worth it for an upgrade to the 1.4G.

I'm still an amateur and trying to get better into photography.

Thanks!

Heres sample images that I took using the 1.4D at f/1.4

Thanks!

 

[MTVision]

They are soft because you are using 1.4. The DOF is so razor thin that any slight focusing error will be noticeable. Usually with a DOF like that 1 (maybe 2) eyes will be in focus and the rest of the face will be soft. Lens don't perform their best wide open. The sweet spot is usually when you close it up 2 full stops.

I don't think getting the 1.4g is going to help. I have the 1.4g and my pictures are soft at 1.4. Try shooting at a smaller aperture! Are they soft when you shoot at f/2.8? Plus the 50 f/1.4g is around 500.00 and you already have one. I honestly don't know if or what improvements were made in the new one besides the af motor in the lens.

 

[BlairWright]

That goes for all 1.4 lenses wide open too. They are all soft in the corners wide open, you can expect that.

One tip.. when you're wide open on a 1.4 use selective focus on the closest eye. Stay away from matrix and 3D focusing, you will not get good results.

 

[vsliceee]

Ah thank you for the help everyone! and yes, shooting at f/2.8 I received a much sharper image with much higher contrast.

And another question, whats the difference between shooting with a 50mm f/1.4 and the 35mm f/1.8 version? Besides the distance difference. Lets say you're shooting both lenses at f/3.2, is there any significant difference? Would one lens be sharper than the other? Just wanna know so I can decide whether to sell my 35mm f/1.8 or not! Thank!

 

[MTVision]

I would think the 50mm would be sharper but I'm not positive. Is it the 35 af-s lens? If it is I haven't heard the best things about it. Something to do with chromatic aberration or something like that.

 

[vsliceee]

I would think the 50mm would be sharper but I'm not positive. Is it the 35 af-s lens? If it is I haven't heard the best things about it. Something to do with chromatic aberration or something like that.

http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-Multicoated-Protective-Filter-offers-protection/dp/B005H2BRGC
this one

 

[MTVision]

http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-Multicoated-Protective-Filter-offers-protection/dp/B005H2BRGC
this one

That's the one I was thinking of. I know a few people on here have sold them because of something....can't remember what. If you do a search on this forum you will probably find the answer.

 

[vsliceee]

Amazon.com: Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras (2183) with 52mm Multicoated UV Protective Filter--offers lens protection & clearer pictures, 52mm Hard Lens Hood, Lens Cap Keeper, and 5 pc. Lens Cleaning Kit: Camera & Photo
this one

That's the one I was thinking of. I know a few people on here have sold them because of something....can't remember what. If you do a search on this forum you will probably find the answer.

mm alright, well I think your word for it is enough I think I'll be going ahead and selling this lens then. Thanks Megan!

 

[Overread]

One additional point is that if you use a 35mm close up you are going to get more distortion than if you use a longer telephoto lens like a 50mm. This in practice means that you can end up with parts of the scene closer to the lens being enlarged over those further back - so people end up with bigger noses or hands as they turn toward the camera. This distortion varies from wide lens to lens and can be corrected somewhat in editing (DxO labs makes a good software option for this). However editing out the distortion means you are having to make a compromise on the original quality.

Thus you'd be better set to hold onto the 50mm - maybe even consider an 85mm since your posted examples are outside (rather than in studio).

 

[RichardsTPF]

I switched to a 50mm f1.4G glass from a 35mm f1.8 a month ago. I would like to give thanks to girls and guys on TPF for help me with the focus problem.
Here is very useful online DOF calculator suggested by a member: Online Depth of Field Calculator. You will use it all the time to get used to your new len.
You can download it into your smart phone, or put a hard copy of DOF table in your bag.

 

[2WheelPhoto]

I got rid of my 35mm 1.8G due to pesky chromatic aberrations.

 

[Derrel]

The first show shows bad green flare on her leg, as well as pretty bad chromatic aberration (see that horrible green fringing on the light pole???), and somewhat low contrast when being shot right toward a bright light source. Did you have a lens shade on the lens? It does not appear so, from the severity of the green flare.

Whenever a guy is going to shoot contre jour like that, meaning "against the light", it is absolutely imperative that the lens have scrupulously clean front and rear lens elements! The lens simply MUST be free from all grease, haze,water condensation film, whatever. And, even then, at f/1.4, most normal, conventional 50mm lenses are going to have slightly low contrast across most all of the frame.

I would search the web for Bjorn Rorslett's review and evaluation of the 50mm 1.4 AF-S G Nikkor lens. I know he reviewed it when it first hit the streets.