Nikon D300-Camera Settings for Indoor Sports Photography

Discussion in 'Beyond the Basics' started by Guido44, Apr 12, 2009.

  1. Guido44

    Guido44 TPF Noob!

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    HI all,

    I took some photos of my son's basketball team this last season.

    Some turned out pretty good, but overall I thought too many weren't as sharp as I'd like. SOME blur actually looks good with the right photo, but I'd like to control it more.

    I think some of it has to do with camera shake, but I wanted to see if you all could make sure my camera settings are correct.

    If you go to my GALLERY and mouse over the large photos, click on the BLUE BOX " i ", you can see my camera info. :)

    What about FLASH? There was a news photographer there and he was just taking single exposures with the .... SB-whatever(?) flash. I have the SB-600, but have little to none experience with it.

    I know that allows a faster shutter speed, but what's the best way to go if I like shooting shooting multiple exposures?


    Thanks ahead of time,

    dan
     
  2. gsgary

    gsgary Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    You need to up your ISO and open up your aperture to get a faster shutter speed
     
  3. tirediron

    tirediron Watch the Birdy! Staff Member Supporting Member

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    First of all what lens/lenses were you using? Sports photography demans fast (Read: Expensive) glass. The ideal solution would be the 70-200 f2.8.

    The flash doesn't actually allow you to use a faster shutter speed, what it does is 'freeze' the movement, and since the duration of the flash is so short (<1/1000 sec) it will produce sharp images at slower shutter speeds (in some cases).

    If flash is allowed, and you can get close enough to use it (Google "Guide number") then it will be your best option. If not, the fastest glass you can, boost your ISO, and watch your focus (a couple of the images in your gallery appear to have missed focus). I would shoot these in shutter priority, that way if the light changes, or you're shooting in a dimmer area, you won't run the risk of your shutter speed falling too low and ruining a shot.
     
  4. Guido44

    Guido44 TPF Noob!

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    I was using the Nikon 70-300mm AF-S and the Nikon 18-55mm AF-S. Both are VR lenses.

    I should have mentioned that. Thanks.

    dan
     
  5. gsgary

    gsgary Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    VR has no use with fast moving sports, as for the lenses they will not cut it for indoor sports
     
  6. Guido44

    Guido44 TPF Noob!

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    Thanks for posting but, ...... why?

    If you bother posting, shouldn't you add a little more information than that?
     
  7. gsgary

    gsgary Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    VR does not work above 1/250 i think and you need about 1/500 to get a nice crisp shot you may get some keepers but you will have to crank the ISO upto ISO3200 and above, use only one focus point if you can set your camera to back button focus i find this works great for sports
     
  8. LuckySo-n-So

    LuckySo-n-So TPF Noob!

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    I think what he meant was that the 70-300 has max apertures of 4@70mm and 5.6@300mm. The 18-55 has max apertures of 3.5 and 5.6.

    Generally speaking, those apertures are much too slow for indoor sports photography. I found this out when I shot a few collegiate gymnastics meets. You have to bump the ISO up so high and use a very slow shutterspeed. This causes noise and visible handshake, unless you have a monopod.

    As a previous poster said, the 70-200 2.8 or 400 2.8 are the "gold standard" sports lenses.

    Unless, of course the event allows you to use a flash, which most do not.
     
  9. Guido44

    Guido44 TPF Noob!

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    AH... thanks. I didn't know that.

    BUT, that's why I'm here. :)

    Well, I just spent a bit of money on a Tokina 11-16, so it'll be a while before I buy another lens. But thanks just the same.

    dan
     
  10. gsgary

    gsgary Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    This shot could have been a great shothttp://www.danfarinastudios.com/photos/501938900_CZTz3-L-1.jpg , but you were only at ISO500 and 18mm, if you had been at ISO1600 and a bit longer focal length it could have been near the correct exposure
     
  11. In2daBlue

    In2daBlue TPF Noob!

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    I don't know where you're shooting or the specs, but if the newspaper shooter was using a flash I am betting you are able to do the same. Basketball can be fun to shoot with a wide angle lens. If you're allowed, get under the basket with a wide angle. That way you can open your f stop to the best case scenario considering your equipment and, in many cases, come away with some really great action shots. Next, when I used to shoot collegiate basketball in this really old gymnasium with terrible t light I would clamp an SB 800 at full power to one of the top risers pointed down on the court. Then, with a PW I would fire the strobe from where I was in the gym. The flash was powerful enough (obviously) to hit the court and I was able to freeze motion when I needed it. Finally, work to "anticipate" the moment and you won't need to fire the rapid fire as much to get the perfect shot. I would imagine that is what the newspaper shooter was doing with his single frame strobed shots.
     
  12. bchalifour

    bchalifour TPF Noob!

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    Simple question:
    Why were you working at 500 iso and not at 1600?
    Instead of shooting at 1/250 you would be at 1/1000, less motion blur. As far as camera blur if you have any at 1/500 brace yourself, or why not frame your image and wait for the action to happen in your frame raher than attempting to follow the action and move your lens, thence camera all the time.
    BC
    Flash may help too (the duration of the light of a flash-gun is usually between 1/5000 and 1/10,000 s.
     

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