Options for using welder's glass in place of 10-stop

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Just ordered a piece of welder's glass to play with as a DIY 10-stop filter.

I've seen a few different ways of "attaching" this to the camera, but I'm not sure which to try. I should have gotten two pieces and experimented.

Anyway, there's this way: Use Welding Glass As 10 Stops ND Filter - DIY Photography

And this way: DIY $10 10-Stop Neutral Density (ND) Filter : Securing your UV filter to the Welder's Glass

If I had one of those nifty square filter holder things, I'd use that. Which of the two links do you think has the best idea? I'll be using a prime lens, or my zoom at it's widest, so I'm not worried that attaching the glass will cause the lens to move after being focused. I wonder about loss of IQ with the extra piece of glass if I use the UV filter method. I suppose I could always knock out the glass from a cheapo one I have laying around and just use the outer ring.

Anyhoo - thoughts?
 
I think the UV filter method is the better idea. It will fit to your lens way better and looks like much less of a hassle. although I'm skeptical tape will hold. I would modify the plan a little though. There's no reason to put that extra glass in front of your lens or have the extra expense of paying for it. Go get a $5 step up ring. Are you planning on doing this with the 50 1.8 that is in your signature? The Canon lens hood for that lens is round, isn't it? I don't think the rubber band method will work with a round lens hood.
 
I like the flipped lens hood/rubber band method. Unless you're JB "Welding" the welding glass to the step-up ring, it'll just constantly fall off and be a PITA to screw on.

Now where to source? And what shade to get?

one of these is an option too: http://www.amazon.com/XCSource-Grad...=1408716717&sr=1-34&keywords=nd+filter+holder

I would toss the plastic filters, but it gives a all the adapter rings you need. Problem is the size of the welding glass; luckily I have diamond bladed, glass cutting, wet saw at home.

I've been toying the idea of buying welding glass for some time now, I was actually going to stop at Lowes today since it's next to my gym and see if they add any.

I'm going to buy that holder, and a panel of #9 and #12 and give it a go.
 
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I think the UV filter method is the better idea. It will fit to your lens way better and looks like much less of a hassle. although I'm skeptical tape will hold. I would modify the plan a little though. There's no reason to put that extra glass in front of your lens or have the extra expense of paying for it. Go get a $5 step up ring. Are you planning on doing this with the 50 1.8 that is in your signature? The Canon lens hood for that lens is round, isn't it? I don't think the rubber band method will work with a round lens hood.


I have a third party hood for it, has petals.


John- Sure, I'm completely confident in my ability to hold my hand still for 8 minutes at a time ;)

Msteelio - thanks for the additional how-to. I checked out that gallery and WOW! Those look awesome. I've been a little worried because I've seen a lot of sub-par photos using this method with a handful a great ones mixed in. I loved the whole gallery.

Braineack - amazon!! I got a green tinted one for $6 and some change. There are tutorials for correcting the extreme shift in WB in one of those links I posted.
 
Check out my thread here: http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...-stop-nd-filter-welding-glass-under-20-a.html

And check out this group on Flickr for some examples using a similar setup: https://www.flickr.com/groups/weldingmaskglassfilter/


Just read over the tutorial you posted - freakin' awesome. I don't have a glass cutter and would be pretty mad at myself if I cracked it, so I may skip the cutting part. I actually think I have some epoxy "laying around."

Also- just realized those photos weren't all yours, but still cool :)
 
...John- Sure, I'm completely confident in my ability to hold my hand still for 8 minutes at a time ;)...
Why? D'ya got somewhere to go?

;)

Remember you don't have to hold your hand still, it doesn't matter if the filter moves around, as long as it stays over the lens element. That said, if you're doing exposures that long, I'd just bodge it on with some gaff tape when the occassion called for it.
 
Check out my thread here: http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...-stop-nd-filter-welding-glass-under-20-a.html

And check out this group on Flickr for some examples using a similar setup: https://www.flickr.com/groups/weldingmaskglassfilter/


Just read over the tutorial you posted - freakin' awesome. I don't have a glass cutter and would be pretty mad at myself if I cracked it, so I may skip the cutting part. I actually think I have some epoxy "laying around."

Also- just realized those photos weren't all yours, but still cool :)

No problemo. It really doesn't need to be cut. Just comes down to size preference.
 
...John- Sure, I'm completely confident in my ability to hold my hand still for 8 minutes at a time ;)...
Why? D'ya got somewhere to go?

;)

Remember you don't have to hold your hand still, it doesn't matter if the filter moves around, as long as it stays over the lens element. That said, if you're doing exposures that long, I'd just bodge it on with some gaff tape when the occassion called for it.

Lol that makes sense. I honestly thought you were messing with me. The tape is a good option too, if I do the rubber band method, I'll use tape also to seal leaks.

ACTUALLY! I will probably use a cpl to balance sky/foreground, so I could just tape it to that. Yay for idea sharing :)
 
the #12 is REALLY dark, in fact it took so long to expose in bright sunlight to find the stop equivalent I got bored.

The #9 glass I got was around 10 stops.

I tried to cut the #12 to fit into that cheap filter holder I got, but it just cracked; too hardened I guess. I couldn't even score and snap it.

I'll return the cheap kit and just rubber band the #9 whenever I need it.

I like the idea of using a CPL as well to darken the sky, but that's another 2-steps, putting the #9 glass + CPL closer to ~12-14.
 

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