pls help me

it just arrived to me via email. see below.

2.jpg
 
Hard to really tell. Like to get a lens to the neg. But from here it looks like clumpy grain - way too coarse for T-max 400 in HC-110.
I think it almost certain to be reticulation. 8 time out of 10 thats the cause of graininess in my experience.
Get control of the temp for the WHOLE of the process including washing. If you use a drying cabinet don't have that too hot either.
If it persists we'll have to think of something else.
 
i think there is no problem with my film, how do u guys think.

i think i have the printing porlbem, how u guy solve this

thanx for the help
 
andylou17 said:
i think there is no problem with my film, how do u guys think.

i think i have the printing porlbem, how u guy solve this

thanx for the help

well, u now need to walk us through your printing methods.

chemicals.
time in each chemical.
agitation procedure.
temperature.
etc.
 
Neg looks OK from the scan. Never known graininess to appear in printing...The only time I've seen a texture like that on a print along with low contrast is when students have had the paper the wrong way up in the easel. That is, emulsion side down and printed through the base.
Without eyeballing the actual neg, print and darkroom set-up I can't really help.
Any suggestions from anyone else?
 
well, i've had it happen to me with paper that was stored in conditions too humid, but the spot pattern wasn't consistent as it is here. on some fiber papers, cold chemical temperatures can cause ill effects very near the above (i've experienced a crackle look on luminos).

but, as mentioned, my experiences don't quite match up to what i see in this print.

edit: almost looks like it was printed through tissue paper...
 
during the printing
i mix the chemical 1:9 with kodak paper developer and develop the print for 1 and half minutes. i don't really do agitation much. temperature is 68 F

and i put on stop bath for 30 sec and then i put it it the fixing for 2 min and then wash it for about 4 min and dry it with drying machine.


Hertz, so u mean my paper turn upside down. I haven't though about that, but i will check for this. is it also a problem too if the negative turn the wrong way?

i think i check my paper everytime i print. it should n't be turn to the wrong direction
 
Printing with the neg upside down just reverses the image - no noticeable degredation.
The paper should be emulsion up for printing. That's the side that gets the image on it. If you moisten your lips a little and put the edge of the paper between them the emulsion side sticks to your lip.
Try doing a print making sure the emulsion is uppermost and let us know if it makes a difference.
 
quick note: you really should agitate the tray when in the developer - uneven development can (will most likely) occur with unpredictable results.
 
is there any rule in agitation for the printing like what the rule in the film process for example first 30 sec and every 5 sec in 30 sec.
 
Put the print in face down so it gets immersed in the dev all at the same time. Rock the tray gently back and forth the whole time.
Turn the print over (face up) after about 10-5 seconds.
Keep rocking the dish gently.
This makes sure that the print is all in the developer - the paper warps when wet and if bits of the print come out the dev then you get uneven development.
The rocking also agitates the dev so you don't get a layer of exhausted dev sitting on top of your print killing development.
This is the Kodak method and works for me but I'm sure other people have their favourite methods.
The important thing is to be consistent - do EVERYTHING the same way every time so you can pinpoint problem areas.
If you ask what went wrong with something but you can't remember what you did then you can't learn from your mistakes.
Best if you can keep the tray in a water bath to keep dev temp around 20C. Print dev usually has two active chemicals. One does blacks the other the tones. If the temp drops bellow about 15C the one that does blacks stops working so your prints look dull and grey.
Dev for the manufactures recommendation. Usually about 1 min for RC and 2 for fibre.
Use a stop bath and don't leave prints in the fix for more than 5-10 mins. Fix bleaches silver (leave a print in overnight and just see what happens....)
Good luck and keep us posted
 
motcon said:
almost looks like it was printed through tissue paper...

That's what I thought when I saw it. It looks a lot different than the neg scan. I think HvR may be onto something with the paper in the easel wrong side up theory.
 

Most reactions

New Topics

Back
Top