Problems with YN468-II and Nikon D3100

OK. Here's a quick video of the problem...
New YN468-II flash does not work with Nikon D3100:
 
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I watched the video...weird!

My suggestion: I saw that the camera was set to the GREEN mode, which is 100% CAMERA DECIDES EVERYTHING automatic....you cannot shift the settings in the Gren auto modes on Nikons or Canons...

Have you set the shutter to 1/125 second in M-mode, and tried TTL flash?? THAT is what I would try: MANUAL selection, in M-mode, with shutter at 1/125 second. ISO set manually by you, to 200 ISO: lens f/stop (aperture) set to f/6.3.

Those are pretty good basic indoor flash settings, in MANUAL mode, with TTL flash control. That "should work"...
 
I just did the little video in auto for demonstration. It does the same thing in all modes. No flash light comes through the lens. I can even set the shutter speed for a full second and still just get a black screen because the flash fires before the shutter opens.

Edit: Derrel, I did try your setting recommendations exactly, and same result as the video. Flash fires, but results in a black screen. Same setting with the built-in flash works just fine.

I'm returning the YN468-II today and picking up a SB-700. I am going brick-and-mortar retail this time, so I'm taking my camera to the store to try first, and if it works, they'll have a sale. :)
 
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I have that flash and granted I shoot canon, the flash works flawlessly. Read your CAMERA manual. You have to have certain settings on you camera to work with the flash.
 
I'm returning the YN468-II today and picking up a SB-700. I am going brick-and-mortar retail this time, so I'm taking my camera to the store to try first, and if it works, they'll have a sale. :)


Okay, I believe you now :rofl:
 
I just did the little video in auto for demonstration. It does the same thing in all modes. No flash light comes through the lens. I can even set the shutter speed for a full second and still just get a black screen because the flash fires before the shutter opens.

Edit: Derrel, I did try your setting recommendations exactly, and same result as the video. Flash fires, but results in a black screen. Same setting with the built-in flash works just fine.

I'm returning the YN468-II today and picking up a SB-700. I am going brick-and-mortar retail this time, so I'm taking my camera to the store to try first, and if it works, they'll have a sale. :)

I think this course of action, buying the "real flash" from the "actual manufacturer" is a good course of action. I have several Nikon flash units from different eras...one is around 30 years old...I used it last year for an event because it has TWO flash windows: a "main" flash that can be tilted and swiveled and bounced, and a smaller "eye sparkle" secondary flash window, that points straight ahead. Nikon SB-16 is the model #. It still works, even though it was made when Ronald Reagan was in his first term as President...

I bought a Nikon SB 800 a few years back, when it was the top flash. It has served me FLAWLESSLY. The thing is, Nikon flash units tend to "just work". They designed the cameras, the flashes, and the camera/flash communication protocols. Your problem is not the first instance I've read about of a buyer having difficulty getting what should be a simple operation to be performed successfully. I know a LOT of people like Yongy flash units. They want to save money. I get that, totally. But I also want a flash unit that just WORKS RIGHT, without endless B.S. problems. I've been buying Nikon speedlights since the early 1980's because they are well-made, offer 100% integration with Nikon products, and are not MIC crap that may, or may not, work right, without hassles.
 
Before you drop the dough on a Nikon speedlight, look at another YN model flash.

I know nothing about flash photography other than what I've read and watched in the past few days.

I just received a YN-560 III in the mail yesterday. I think I paid $74

I put it in the hot shoe. Turned the camera on. Turned the flash on. Put it in manual mode (speedlight). And it fired right off.

Kind of hard to beat for $74
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I think this course of action, buying the "real flash" from the "actual manufacturer" is a good course of action. I have several Nikon flash units from different eras...one is around 30 years old...I used it last year for an event because it has TWO flash windows: a "main" flash that can be tilted and swiveled and bounced, and a smaller "eye sparkle" secondary flash window, that points straight ahead. Nikon SB-16 is the model #. It still works, even though it was made when Ronald Reagan was in his first term as President...

I bought a Nikon SB 800 a few years back, when it was the top flash. It has served me FLAWLESSLY. The thing is, Nikon flash units tend to "just work". They designed the cameras, the flashes, and the camera/flash communication protocols. Your problem is not the first instance I've read about of a buyer having difficulty getting what should be a simple operation to be performed successfully. I know a LOT of people like Yongy flash units. They want to save money. I get that, totally. But I also want a flash unit that just WORKS RIGHT, without endless B.S. problems. I've been buying Nikon speedlights since the early 1980's because they are well-made, offer 100% integration with Nikon products, and are not MIC crap that may, or may not, work right, without hassles.

I was just trying to save a few bucks (like everyone), but lesson learned. I've never owned a speedlight, so went cheap to see what it was all about. Kinda like dipping my foot in the water to see if I like it. I'm going head first now. :)

I have that flash and granted I shoot canon, the flash works flawlessly. Read your CAMERA manual. You have to have certain settings on you camera to work with the flash.

I'm pretty familiar with the camera and have read the manual. I even pulled it back out to try and trouble shoot this problem. Did you see my video? The flash fire before the shutter opens. There are no settings to change this (that I've found). This happens in ALL models, full auto, full manual, aperture priority (what I shoot in a lot)...everything. But, if you have a tip on changing the timing on the flash, let me know. I'd love to learn about it.
 
Have you tried to fire the flash with the speedlight and camera both in manual mode?

I edited this because I had typed "TTL" mode instead of manual.
 
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Have you tried to fire the flash with the speedlight and camera both in manual mode?

I edited this because I had typed "TTL" mode instead of manual.

Unfortunately, there's no option to change the flash mode with this flash attached. The manual says "built-in flash" settings will change to "optional flash", which allows you to change the flash mode, but with this flash attached, "built-in flash" was grayed out and there was no "optional flash" option. There were no options to change any settings. There are no settings for anything about flash to shutter sync timing. The manual even says, "If an option flash unit is attached in shooting modes other than (no flash), the flash will fire with every shot, even in modes in which the built in flash cannot be used." So, I have no idea why it does nothing when the flash is in manual mode, as it should fire every time. I don't get it.
 
I can't watch the video again right now because I'm on my phone, but I'm pretty sure I watched you scroll through the M setting on your flash. I think your flash has TTL, M, S1, and S2 modes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I can't watch the video again right now because I'm on my phone, but I'm pretty sure I watched you scroll through the M setting on your flash. I think your flash has TTL, M, S1, and S2 modes.

Correct. The flash has modes TTL, M, Multi, S1, and S2. The slave (S1 and S2) don't come up while the flash is attached to the camera. I shot the video with the flash in TTL and M. TTL will fire the flash, but no light from the flash makes it through the shutter, and in M mode, the flash does not respond to the camera. It does nothing.
 
Late last year someone on their d7000 had an issue with a flash not firing at the same time, or firing late. I can't recall.
But I went thru all the setting on my d7000 to try and emulate the problem but couldn't - and giving them settings to try. They ended up sending it back too, the new unit (whether the same or not) worked fine. So, it could just be a dud.
 

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