Program Mode VS Manual, Aperture, Shutter, or ISO Priority Modes

[vintagesnaps]

I almost always shoot M. I have my own 'mode' lol - which is to reset a camera at f8 and 1/125 when I'm done. So next time I grab the camera, that's where it's set (well, most of the time, I am human lol). Works for me.

I find shooting manual is way easier that whatever 'modes' a camera manufacturer or whoever came up with that they think is going to work. What do they know? they're not standing here with me to determine camera settings for any given conditions. I'm fast, just years of practice I guess, I can adjust from my standard settings quick enough.

I even focus manually shooting hockey. That's what I learned, that's what I've done for years and years, so that's what I know how to do.

Most of the time. I use 'auto' settings when shooting a Polaroid. (Although now that I think about it, I manually focus the SX-70...).

 

[smoke665]

There are only two reasons to use manual mode. One would be with non automatic flash such as studio strobes.

Actually only one reason. They did away with the on board flash and the internal wireless flash capability on the K3II but the flash "functions" work in P mode, all you need to do is connect via sync cord or attach a wireless transmitter to the hot shoe.

The new twist that's shown up at the end of the film era and into the digital era is "matrix" metering.

Break that down further into "multi segment" and "center weighted". So far I've never found an instance in which I've gotten a satisfactory result from "multi segment", but I have found some uses for the "center weighted". Such as reading off a scene with really uneven bright spots. And eventually I'll get into exploring the "pixel shift" mode, that should be fun.

I have my own 'mode'

Nothing wrong with that. Though I haven't done so yet, I have the capability of programming up to 3 user modes. Some of my problem is coming from the differences between the previous model camera and the current model. Maybe I've always been a little anal about some things, but I'm never content unless I know how and why something works, and how can I use it to improve on a task or make my easier.

 

[Gary A.]

@ Joe- I don't check the meter constantly. After I find a baseline value ... A la Center-the-Needle ... I sorta automatically know where I want to be exposure-wise ... And I'l just count clicks/F stops, either shutter or aperture or both until I get to where I want to be. When the light changes, I compensate counting clicks/partial clicks along the way. Works for me, my eye stays focused on the subject and it is quite fast and relatively done in the background automaticity.

Per you description, it seems like six of one or a half dozen of another ... But I'm willing to try it.

PS- Generally, speed is most important in scenarios where both the subject and the lighting are fluid and are constantly changing. That is what I tend to shoot.

 

[AlanKlein]

I use P mode almost all the time. If I think the exposure is too light based on the display and/or histogram, I aim the camera to a lighter spot to darken the image, half press the shutter to lock the exposure and re-frame the image, then finish clicking the shutter. If it's too dark, then I aim the camera to a darker spot to brighten the image and then follow the same procedure. Seems to work. Since I'm shooting a MFT, there's normally not much you can do with DOF even with small apertures. If there are some unusual circumstance then I might go to shutter priority for high speed or to blur.

When I shoot my MF RB67 film camera, I use all manual with a hand held meter because manual is all it has.

 

[Rick50]

Interesting read. More than one way to skin a cat....

 

[unpopular]

If you know how to shoot manual mode then there is no reason not to shoot in any AE mode, including program. The problem is that most people have no idea what AE is actually doing; all they know is that when they shoot manual it tends to be worse.

But these photographers also don't understand exposure compensation either, and as a result are slaves to the lighting conditions.

I've shot manual mode until I got my XE-1, and for some reason that camera (with manual lenses) just seems to work better in Aperture priority. Of course with live view I don't even really meter anymore either.

 

[fmw]

There are only two reasons to use manual mode. One would be with non automatic flash such as studio strobes.

But none of them will work with studio strobes. They aren't automatic. You need to use manual exposure.

 

[astroNikon]

I only shoot in Manual for control of Aperture and Shutter.
If studio type shots I'm also in Manual ISO
If outside I'm probably in AUTO ISO with a max value.

This allows me to fully control the Shutter and Aperture that I want to capture the image with. If there is something not right, then I'll compensate with something (Shutter, Aperture, EC, ISO).

 

[Ysarex]

@ Joe- I don't check the meter constantly. After I find a baseline value ... A la Center-the-Needle ... I sorta automatically know where I want to be exposure-wise ... And I'l just count clicks/F stops, either shutter or aperture or both until I get to where I want to be. When the light changes, I compensate counting clicks/partial clicks along the way. Works for me, my eye stays focused on the subject and it is quite fast and relatively done in the background automaticity.

Per you description, it seems like six of one or a half dozen of another ... But I'm willing to try it.

PS- Generally, speed is most important in scenarios where both the subject and the lighting are fluid and are constantly changing. That is what I tend to shoot.

You're describing a journalist's methodology founded in your past practice. That's perfectly fine. But some things to consider: Journalism is one sub-discipline in photo; there are many others. Now think about the methodology you've just described handed to the new owner of an entry-level DSLR. The click counting that you're doing suggests an aperture ring on a lens. What's that? With rare exception they don't make those anymore. The wheel that changes shutter speeds on say a Nikon 5100 isn't necessarily clicking one click per 1 stop (or 1/2 stop) shutter speed or f/stop. In most cases you're clicking through 1/3 stops -- not the same counting practice as you grew up with. With that same entry-level DSLR the wheel that manually changes the shutter speed may also manually change the f/stop and you have to depress and hold a button to switch functions.

When you pragmatically try and apply a methodology here the design of the camera is going to impinge on how you decide to work. Depending on the UI design, controlling exposure manually can be quite ungainly. Many photographers now take advantage of a digital camera's quick ability to change ISO and how is that specifically accomplished on X, Y or Z camera? I can't do anything that looks like click counting to change ISO on my camera (it's a PITA).

So the bottom line remains: exposure is the photographer's job and as long as the photographer is in control PASM is just no big deal. They can all get you to the same place most of the time. There are obvious exceptions but they are exceptions. For example I like to do multi-frame panoramas that I stitch together myself and manual exposure is a requirement.

When I use my camera in P mode the choice has as much to do with the design of the camera as anything else. The P shift wheel is directly under my right hand thumb when holding the camera. Frequently setting an exposure requires no more than a tweak of that wheel either left or right and I can press the shutter release.

Joe

 

[Bebulamar]

Use the program mode! If you miss something it really doesn't matter. Who cares as long as you get the pictures you want.
I use the M mode most of the time but if P works for you don't think you will miss something.

I've always used what I felt was most appropriate for the shot be it manual or priority. What I'm seeing on the K3 II is that instead of moving and locking the exposure mode dial to one or the other. By using the P mode, I have a choice (hyper mode) of changing it from automatic to a priority, to a manual setting with a quick turn of a thumb wheel, and then being able to revert back with the touch of a button.

I will have to read the manual for the K3 II as I don't have Pentax DSLR.