Pushing and pulling film explanation (with examples?) pls!

Discussion in 'Beyond the Basics' started by .glib, Jan 13, 2004.

  1. .glib

    .glib TPF Noob!

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    I've seen photos that people have said were pushed or pulled, and I understand what you do technically (not that it's complicated), but I don't really know what kind of an effect I'd be getting out of it.

    Is it different between color and B&W? Could someone post some examples if they have any? Thanks.
     
  2. blinded

    blinded TPF Noob!

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    For my photo class, we shot some night shots on B&W negative film. I used Tmax400 and pushed it to either 1600 or 3200 and shot without a flash. When I developed instead of developing at around 25 minutes with regular developer, we used paper developer and cut the time in half. The prints had comparitively really fine grain and bleh, thats about all I know.
     
  3. .glib

    .glib TPF Noob!

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    Yeah, diff developing is the reason you have to let the lab know that you pushed or pulled it, but its the effect I'm looking for.

    So you pushed and got a really fine grain? So if you're after really sharp B&W's, pushing will get you more?
     
  4. ksmattfish

    ksmattfish Now 100% DC - not as cool as I once was, but still

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    Pushing is underexposing and overdeveloping. Pulling is overexposing and underdeveloping.

    The manufacturer's recommended ISO is just a suggestion. Pushing is usually used in low light situations. Both can be used to alter contrast.

    You are going to have to experiment, because two people seemingly using the same technique and film may get different results. There are many variables.

    For instance, my experience has been that pushing tends to increase grain and contrast.

    It's easy to experiment if you are developing your own film. If you are planning on having a lab dev it, you better check first to see what they can do. Many C41 and E6 processing machines do not allow for pulling and may only allow a one stop push.
     

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