Question about pushing color print film ????

fzfile

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Last weekend for Christmas at my parents I had grabbed the wrong film and brought ONLY 200 color print (Kodak Hi Def).

Because of low light I just set my Rebel to 400 figuring I could request the lab develop at 400....... having read some stuff about that kind of thing on this and other forums.

But today when I brought the film to my local mom-and-pop I was told that its not possible to do that with color print film.
The guy said it works with slide film or B&W but that the reticulation (???) prevents color print film from overdevelopment and that pushing it is NOT possible.

Is this accurate???? ...... because I could swear I read people talking about this being done and dont remember that fact coming up.

but............ maybe I misunderstood.


BTW ..... what is reticulation ????

-mike
 
You can push colour but you need to take it to a pro lab and it will cost you more. High Street labs do it by the numbers so they will only process it at it's original rating.
 
Thanks.

I thought it would be possible.

This guy sends his stuff out so maybe he just doesn't make any money off "special" processing...... of course he could just charge me more but .... whatever.

At least I know I might be able to send the roll SOMEWHERE to get done.

Its not like I think I have any exceptional shots or anything but its annoying dealing with stuff like this since this guy is right down the road and would be convienient...... but instead of just saying HE cant do it he tells me it cant be done at all.

Makes it a lot less likely that I'll be going there.

But even the "pro" shop thats 1/2 hour away sends their stuff out so maybe I'll fish around for some good places I can send rolss out myself..... in a different thread.



-mike
 
Ferny's got a really good point: why pay for 'push processing' when all you have to do, is buy some pre-made DX coding stickers and put them over the bar code?

The only down side is that those DX coded stickers cost around $1 each....so it's about evens. Unless you ask for the canister back ;)
 
Hmmmmmmmmmm...........................a dollar each! :eek:

I mean thats better than $5-$7 a roll.

.......... where does one obtain dx coding stickers???


-mike
 
In England, a chain of photographic stores called 'Jessops' sell these DX stickers. They come in preset DX's from ISO 50 - 400. They can be ordered as well. Traditionally, these DX coders were used to label bulk-rolled film.

Try asking J&C Photo or B&H for 'DX Coding stickers'.

You could also take a spare ISO 200 cassette and scan in the bar code - print out the bar code and cut + tape it onto your cassette - dunno if that would work though ;)
 
I forgot to say - 'duh.

If you only downrated ISO 400 to ISO 200 and you've used colour negative film - just drop it in and the film latitude will probably compensate for the 1 stop difference. If you want to be cautious for an extra $1, then get the DX coder.

The other option would be to respool your film into an ISO 400 cassette, if you know how to open the canister without destroying the ISO 400 cassette. Maybe it's too complicated .... try the other two methods perhaps.
 
The local Winn Dixie had no trouble developing some pushed film for me last time I did that. Any shop should know how to develop it or at least know who to call to find out how to do so (without extra charge).

Good luck!
 
Thanks.

Any shop should know how to develop it or at least know who to call to find out how to do so (without extra charge).

Thats what I figured. :roll:

I'm looking into the sticker option at the moment.

I'll call B&H tomorrow ........ I've done some business with them before and they seem pretty cool.

.... not sure if Winn Dixie is local to me ....... O.K. ..... to be honest I'm not completely sure really is :lol:

-mike
 
If it's a roll of 24 exposures or so, tell the lab tech to simply turn the machine off for 1 minute per stop as soon as the machine beeps letting him/her know that the film is completely loaded. Any more than 28 exposures is too long because part of the film will be in the developing rack and part will be in the next stage. After 1 minute, turn the machine back on and the film will continue through the machine like normal. This extra minute will be push the film a stop.
 
The various suggestions for changing the DX coding on the film cassette won't help with push processing. The C-41 process is standardized; an ISO 100 film gets the same development as an ISO 1600 film, etc.. Also, film processing machines don't even read the DX coding as it makes absolutely no difference in the developing stage.

Push processing is usually accomplished by either extending the developing time or raising the temperature of the developer (some labs will run a batch in the morning or evening before or after the rest of the film is done). I would take your film to a 'pro' lab and have them push it for you, if that's what you want done.
 
That's a good point Bob. I think Photogoddess hit the nail on the head. The DX coding is more for the exposure stage...still: a 1 stop difference in colour print ....is it worth pushing?

Wish I hadn't fluncked C41 chemistry in my colour modules in college :(
 
Hmmmmmmmmm................

Well my haste and lack of grammer check blew my not-so-clever Winn Dixie joke ................. supposed to have read " WHO Winn Dixie is"

... but thats neither here nor there.

New info to thicken the plot, very good.

Problem is all of the local labs (that I know of) send out most processing.

I'll call around.

Thanks for the additional info folks.

Damn digital!!

-mike
 

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