Returning to hobby but unanswered questions bother (Long)

[cathexis]

Greetings All,

I'm a newbie to this forum but not to forums in general. Back in the 70's/80's (yes, it's been that long) my "outfit" was a used Miranda Sensorex and an even older Yashica 2 1/4" fixed lens reflex. Both were great and got lots of use, mainly in still life outdoor shots where I would use the variability of the Miranda on both f-stop, shutter speed, and ISO (as well as filters) to make "creative" shots. I always bracketed my shots so to save printing costs, I'd even shoot contact prints in the bathroom, flicking the 60W on/off as fast I could. Hey, it worked! But now I have only a Fuji S1800 Finepix which is WAY not able to recreate the shots I want. For example, the Fuji offers an A for aperture mode and a M for manual mode but actually the only choices for f-stop are 3.1 & 6.4, IIRC. I want to ask the group whether modern DSLR's can even do certain shots and if so what are some model ideas. Interchangeable lens are a must but it is the variability in f-stop & shutter speed settings that are crucial. No interest in flash, natural light only. The more it can do in B&W the better. I'm less interested in learning Photo-Shop Pro and such than in having a camera that I can take in field and do those things - in the field. But getting this level of camera specs. has been very hard; The Fuji for example, makes it very clear it has a "Manual & Custom modes" - but the devil is in the details!

Here are 2 examples of simple shots that I'd want to recreate and ask your suggestions on:
1. Simple low-profile up at tree with dramatic clouds in background using red filter in B&W.
2. Woodsy low-profile in dim, dappled sunlight shooting across a running brook in B&W where the f-stop is opened way up for the dim light. Shutter speed is also lowered so although the vegetation is in focus, the brook is blurred so to show it "running." Also B&W. The low f-stop will also soften the background and the shot would be bracketed to vary light levels, depth-of-field, and creek "blur."

Possible in today's world or not? I know Miranda's are cheap on E-bay, etc. but can modern DLSR's do this kind a stuff and what are some suggested models.

TIA ,

Cathexis

 

[fmw]

Yes a modern DSLR can anything a film SLR could do and much much more. There are two aspects to digital photography - the composition/exposure and the post process. We can do all kinds of things in the post process such as add the effect of a red filter to an image converted digitally to black and white. We can also do all things to the images that we used to do with film in a dark room and much much more. It is a new world in photography in the digital age.

 

[snowbear]

You can also set the camera to record monochrome and use the physical filters, if you want. In lower light, you have a wide range of ISOs (ASA) that can be changed on the fly (try doing that with one roll of film).

The three big players are Nikon, Canon and Sony. Nikon will give you an advantage in the used lens market, but all three make good cameras.

 

[fmw]

You can also set the camera to record monochrome and use the physical filters, if you want. In lower light, you have a wide range of ISOs (ASA) that can be changed on the fly (try doing that with one roll of film).

The three big players are Nikon, Canon and Sony. Nikon will give you an advantage in the used lens market, but all three make good cameras.

Sure but the only reason to do that would be to use the filter as an ND. My method is to shoot color, convert to B&W and then adjust the blue channel to get the exact effect I want. I have all the sky darkening capacity from none to black in an adjustable and simple procedure. That is using digital capabilities to their best.

 

[Derrel]

A modern d-slr will offer a HUGE amount of photography capability. Much more so than a 35mm SLR, and more than the Yashica 6x6cm twin-lens reflex. Autofocusing, bracketing, autoexposure, rapid-fire shooting,etc. When capturing images in raw mode (.NEF for Nikon, .CR2 for canon, .DNG for some cameras) the files are very workable in software, and exposures can be adjusted, and some post-processing software DOES allow for filter simulation (red,green,yellow,orange,blue filter effects,etc) AND also contrast simulation, sepia toning, and more. Photoshop allows for channel mixing, for a huge variety of B&W "looks". Almost ANY desired "look" can be created from a raw file digitial capture, in moments' to minutes' worth of work.

Black and white images made from digital files can look fantastic! I really enjoy creating digitial B&W effects!

Modern d-slr models I recommend? Nikons in the $549 to $3,000 price range--something in that range.

 

[vintagesnaps]

Get out a film camera, load some B&W film, and put on a red filter...

More seriously, you can do either. I still shoot film and send film out for developing/scanning etc. I also shoot digitally; for me it was a matter of learning to use a different type camera. If I shoot Raw and set the camera to get a proper exposure it would be possible to photograph what you describe either way.

For B&W I like to shoot film. If I'm out shooting and run out of film and see something interesting and have my digital camera with me, I've used that. I may bracket shots either way if the lighting is mixed or changeable, so I have either the best quality negative (not too dense or too thin) or a properly exposure digital image. I found shooting digitally in color, to get a B&W copy in post I usually just have to Remove Color, maybe adjust contrast. For me it comes down to getting a proper exposure, then usually only minimal adjustment is needed, with film or with a digital camera.

The Finepix is a point 'n shoot isn't it? It's like with film p&s's, there's little you can do to adjust or change settings so you probably will get what could be expected with that type camera.

 

[snowbear]

Sure but the only reason to do that would be to use the filter as an ND. My method is to shoot color, convert to B&W and then adjust the blue channel to get the exact effect I want. I have all the sky darkening capacity from none to black in an adjustable and simple procedure. That is using digital capabilities to their best.

I also prefer to shoot color and do conversions and filtering in post, but I was trying to point out that it is possible to still go "old school" with a digital camera, so using the color filters to change contrast and values in monochrome/b&w is still valid. I also know some people that absolutely hate to spend time on post.

 

[weepete]

as above, the only thing I'd add is don't dismiss digital development quickly, it's massivley powerful and a little knowledge of something like lightroom can really put the finishing touches on a shot

 

[cathexis]

Wow! Lots of fast replies and thank you. BUT,... there is one thing I haven't heard anybody mention yet, or perhaps I'm too much of a newbie to have noticed: F-stops.
I get the idea of using ISO-adjusting for film speed and playing with shutter speed as two things still very do-able in the field. But how would I adjust my f-stop to control
depth of field or in choosing a shutter speed/f-stop balance to get both a controllable depth of field and still achieve the "rushing" brook effect? I hope I'm being clear.
For example, the Auto Miranda-E : 50mm / f 1.8 lens (standard on most Sensorex) would stop down from 1.8 to 16 although I don't remember if this was click stops or
infinitely adjustable. Do the lens sold for interchangeable DLSRs (or the camera body/digital effects) allow this? This is the question I most want to know. I do hear you folks
emphasizing the role of post and I don't spurn your advice it's just that my firm interest is working in the field. But please excuse me if I'm missing the obvious; I'm very much the newbie.

 

[dxqcanada]

I think you will find the new technology of any DSLR camera sufficient ... though there is a lot of other stuff that got thrown in that you can manipulate.
You still got a shutter speed, a lens aperture, and a medium sensitivity that you have to account for.

I am actually surprised you raised these questions ... not to sound facetious.

 

[tirediron]

Another Miranda user???? Damn, and for all these years I thought I was the only one! I can't add much to the above, but it's cool to know there is another Miranda user out there!!!

 

[snowbear]

Wow! Lots of fast replies and thank you. BUT,... there is one thing I haven't heard anybody mention yet, or perhaps I'm too much of a newbie to have noticed: F-stops.
I get the idea of using ISO-adjusting for film speed and playing with shutter speed as two things still very do-able in the field. But how would I adjust my f-stop to control
depth of field or in choosing a shutter speed/f-stop balance to get both a controllable depth of field and still achieve the "rushing" brook effect? I hope I'm being clear.
For example, the Auto Miranda-E : 50mm / f 1.8 lens (standard on most Sensorex) would stop down from 1.8 to 16 although I don't remember if this was click stops or
infinitely adjustable. Do the lens sold for interchangeable DLSRs (or the camera body/digital effects) allow this? This is the question I most want to know. I do hear you folks
emphasizing the role of post and I don't spurn your advice it's just that my firm interest is working in the field. But please excuse me if I'm missing the obvious; I'm very much the newbie.

A lot (maybe most) of the newest digital lenses lack an aperture ring so the camera body controls it all. Even newer lenses with aperture rings have to be at the smallest aperture for the Nikons. I think the standard is now 1/3-stop intervals.

 

[Derrel]

F/stop control is 1/3 click stop by default, with 1/2 stop and even 1 full f/stop options selectable. Shutter speed, the same, 1/3 clicks are the default, and 1/2 speed clicks are also possible. There is PLENTY of f/stop and shutter speed control posible on any modern d-slr.

 

[astroNikon]

Wow! Lots of fast replies and thank you. BUT,... there is one thing I haven't heard anybody mention yet, or perhaps I'm too much of a newbie to have noticed: F-stops.
I get the idea of using ISO-adjusting for film speed and playing with shutter speed as two things still very do-able in the field. But how would I adjust my f-stop to control
depth of field or in choosing a shutter speed/f-stop balance to get both a controllable depth of field and still achieve the "rushing" brook effect? I hope I'm being clear.
For example, the Auto Miranda-E : 50mm / f 1.8 lens (standard on most Sensorex) would stop down from 1.8 to 16 although I don't remember if this was click stops or
infinitely adjustable. Do the lens sold for interchangeable DLSRs (or the camera body/digital effects) allow this? This is the question I most want to know. I do hear you folks
emphasizing the role of post and I don't spurn your advice it's just that my firm interest is working in the field. But please excuse me if I'm missing the obvious; I'm very much the newbie.

There are many Prime lens that generally go to f/1.4 both new and old, such as Nikon AF-D (and older autofocus mechanism) 85mm/1.4 (which has creamy OOF), Nikon 85mm/1.8 AF-S (new autofocus mechanism with AF motor in the lens), etc etc.
Then more affordable lenses that go to f/1.8
Then professional zooms that go to f/2.8


you have a FinePix. I've always been a Fuji afficionado and you may want to look at a FujiFilm X-T2 crop APS-C sensor camera (versus full frame) as it has many filters and features such as Film Simulation which you may like. Not all the Fujis have the built in features (X-T20 doesn't but the X-T10 & X-T2 does) ... I think.
There a couple FujiFilm experts on the forum ..

 

[SquarePeg]

If you’re looking for aperture rings on the lens, minimal need for post processing and great with natural light/high ISO situations - look at the Fuji Xt2 and 18-55 kit lens and then add on the 60 mm macro.

The jpegs are great right out of the camera. Very little need to process as RAW files. And if you’re looking for great B&W options, the in camera conversions and film simulations will be perfect for you.