Sekonic l-308s?

jwilly1

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I consider myself an advanced amateur that shoots a lot of portraiture in my basement studio. I'm looking at acquiring my first light meter on a budget. Is this meter a good choice to use for a three or for light setup? Would I need a separate transmitter and a receiver for said transmitter on each strobe, or will this meter fire the strobes? I've been reading reviews, but I've just never used one, so I don't know how they work. Thanks so much for helping me make a wise decision. Many thanks.
 
That's indeed a good meter. It will trigger strobes, but only if they're connected by a PC cord. All I do is have a spare PW in my hand to trigger my lights when I'm metering.
 
Or you can use a 358 with a PW module. :cool-48:
 
That's what I was thinking Tirediron. So when I set the meter to read the light, it will try until it sees the flash? In other words, perfect timing between the flash and the meter's read t8ming isn't critical? Thanks again.
 
No... perfect timing isn't critical. Check the manual for the exact time, but on my meter (Minlota Flash V), the meter will "look" for a flash for 10 seconds after the metering button is pressed.
 
No... perfect timing isn't critical. Check the manual for the exact time, but on my meter (Minlota Flash V), the meter will "look" for a flash for 10 seconds after the metering button is pressed.
This is the reason I love this forum! People will take time to answer goofy questions, even on Christmas.
 
The Sekonic L-308s is a sweet little meter.

Like John, I used a hand held remote radio trigger to fire my lights so i could meter them.
"Necessity is the mother of invention."
 
The Sekonic L-308s is a sweet little meter.

Like John, I used a hand held remote radio trigger to fire my lights so I could meter them with the Sekonic L-308s.
"Necessity is the mother of invention."
 
That's what I was thinking Tirediron. So when I set the meter to read the light, it will try until it sees the flash? In other words, perfect timing between the flash and the meter's read t8ming isn't critical? Thanks again.

The L308S has two modes for flash... corded and cordless.

Cordless, you push its button and then you have 90 seconds to trigger the flash any way you can (and it will meter it).

Corded, you connect meter and flash with a PC sync cord, and its button triggers and meters it.

The L308S is a great choice, it does all you need for studio lights. No more, no less. Meaning, it is missing all the extra frills that really don't serve much purpose. Which is probably an arbitrary choice, but the list is detailed at Why would I need a handheld light meter?

The manual is on the product page at Sekonic.com
 
It works really well, but I wish I had spent the extra to get the 478DR that can trigger the pocketwizards.

LOVE the meter though.
 
Or you can use a 358 with a PW module. :cool-48:
I second that.
I have a L358 with the RT module...however now the new digital meter is even better.
 
It works really well, but I wish I had spent the extra to get the 478DR that can trigger the pocketwizards.

LOVE the meter though.


The most that would be required to do that now is a $6 hot shoe accessory with PC sync.

See Review of the Yongnuo YN565EX Speedlight It should work for any radio trigger. Triggers are triggered by the hot shoe. This accessory is a hot shoe, triggered by the PC sync, in this case, from the L308S meter.
 
It works really well, but I wish I had spent the extra to get the 478DR that can trigger the pocketwizards.

LOVE the meter though.


The most that would be required to do that now is a $6 hot shoe accessory with PC sync.

See Review of the Yongnuo YN565EX Speedlight It should work for any radio trigger. Triggers are triggered by the hot shoe. This accessory is a hot shoe, triggered by the PC sync, in this case, from the L308S meter.

The point is to be completely wireless...
 
I had a 308, but now have a 758. The 758 has a pocket wizard tranmsmitter builtin. But it's not really necessary... anything that can trigger your flash will work. The meter is just waiting for a big spike in the amount of light and records that value.

Just make sure that you are aware of the concept of light fall-off. The meter really needs to be at the subject position ... don't hold it a few feet in front of a subject or it'll record the amount of light at that position instead of at your subject position.
 

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