sharp pictures

More than likely you are not stopping the lens down enough. Hard to say without example with exif data
What does that mean?

Stopping the lens down means using a smaller aperture (bigger f number). That 70-200mm f4 should be really sharp though, and it should be sharp wide open too, so I agree with dxqcanada, try using a shutter speed of at least 1/200 at 70mm.
 
More than likely you are not stopping the lens down enough. Hard to say without example with exif data
What does that mean?

Stopping the lens down means using a smaller aperture (bigger f number). That 70-200mm f4 should be really sharp though, and it should be sharp wide open too, so I agree with dxqcanada, try using a shutter speed of at least 1/200 at 70mm.
Thanks... so increasing iso is better? I get so nervous because the noise make it look oof to me.... but i guess I'll be better off sbd may be adjusting luminance in lr
 
Ok so in review lol

I should up iso high enough to have a 1/200 ss?

And make sure I'm at 4.0 or higher.

Any rule on when to use what aperature?
 
From info on the web ... tt looks like the EF50mm f/1.8 STM gets better at f/2.8
 
What focus mode are you using? I've got a t5i and I have 3 modes. "one shot" which locks in the focus when you press the shutter half way, "AI Focus" which locks in the focus but will adjust it if your daughter moves, and "AI Servo" which continuously focuses for moving subjects. Try AI Focus and see if that helps.
 
Is the 70-200mm the f/4 version? If so, you are shooting it wide open as well. The version I had of that 70-200mm f/4.0 was soft at f/4 too.

I'm guessing the 50mm f/1.8 is not the STM (new) version either. I never could get the older versions of the 50mm f/1.8 to produce tack sharp photos at 1.8 either.
 
Back in the olden days there was a RoT to have shutter speed at least the focal length ... so with a 50mm lens on APS-C, that's about 75mm ... so at least 1/80s, so aim higher.
Aperture ... the IQ of a lens will have an influence on that, in most cases the widest tends to be the poorest ... many lenses are best about two stops down ... f1.8-2.5-3.5
Zoom lenses ... IQ can also vary throughout the focal range.
There are many lens reviews online that will detail IQ at various apertures and focal lengths.
 
What focus mode are you using? I've got a t5i and I have 3 modes. "one shot" which locks in the focus when you press the shutter half way, "AI Focus" which locks in the focus but will adjust it if your daughter moves, and "AI Servo" which continuously focuses for moving subjects. Try AI Focus and see if that helps.

I know this is terrible.. but i have no idea what I'm using. I guess i Need to Google this! Thank you. So ai focus? Ill Google and see how to set this
 
Is the 70-200mm the f/4 version? If so, you are shooting it wide open as well. The version I had of that 70-200mm f/4.0 was soft at f/4 too.

I'm guessing the 50mm f/1.8 is not the STM (new) version either. I never could get the older versions of the 50mm f/1.8 to produce tack sharp photos at 1.8 either.
Yes it is. Thank you. Ill try making iso higher to make aperature a larger number
 
I know this is terrible.. but i have no idea what I'm using. I guess i Need to Google this! Thank you. So ai focus? Ill Google and see how to set this
On my camera I have the AF button on the lowr right on the back. I bought David Busch Compact field guide for the T5i/700D. He may have one for the t6i or the t5i may be close enough for you. Great book for explaining everything about your camera. Better than the camera manual with big writing you can read.
 
Last one

1.8
50mm
800 iso
1/500 sec

This photo was shot from close range. DISTANCE from the camera to the subject plays a HUGE role on depth of field. When you are close to the subject, there is not much depth of field. In this shot of the boy, you can see the focus zone "sliding out", as even the ears start to "slide out" of the focused zone. Again...distance is the number one factor in depth of field. Second is aperture, third is focal length. (This is speaking in real, practical terms). Many people think aperture is the most-critical variable, but it's mostly distance, at least under 20 feet.

On this shot of the squatting boy in shorts with the black and red shirt: the camera is angled steeply downward, which caused the already shallow depth of field band to literally be "tilted", in relation to the way his body and head are positioned, relative to the camera! This is like photographing a wine bottle on a table...the DOF band is not at the same "angle" as the subject is!

If you want apparently more in-focus, it's better to have the back of the camera be parallel with the subject, and not angled downwardly at a 50 degree angle.

Guidelines? At this close-range camera-to-subject distance with a 50mm lens? The lens needs to be stopped wayyyyyy down, because the kid is at one angle, and the camera is angled steeply downward...you'd want to be stopped down to f/8 or f/11 at minimum, and f/16 would give more in-focus. f/22 would be a good f/stop, but the speed would have been very slow, but it could be done.

As far as the exposure used, f/1.8 at 1/500 second...the exposure selected used a very high shutter speed for a kid that's not moving much...it would have been better to have slowed the shutter speed wayyyyyy down, to 1/60 second, in order to made the final exposure at four EV values "slower" of an aperture setting...which would be 12 one-third-stop clicks "down" from 1/500...
 
If you want the f/1.8 for Max creamy background, your going to need to back up a bit from your subject, crop in post. Shoot in Aperture priority mode and adjust iso to get at the shutter double the focal length, 100 speed at minimum. That is what I would do if no flash is being used. Look at your lens and see if it has depth of field markings. When shooting wide open, the depth of field is pretty thin. Understanding where that threshold is will give you better results. I assume you just need to back up a bit. Your right at that threshold.
 

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