Yes from all the above. I learned long ago when doing sports on my D7000 that Single Point focus is the way to go. After all, you want to focus on ONE particular subject. The camera's computer doesn't know that. The camera wants to focus on the best contrast detected image out there. I learned that with the 70-300 nikon lens which, because of contrast issues, liked to focus on background fences and other subjects with more contrast. Nikon's also like the cross detection points in the middle of the frame (on the older AF systems). The single focus point will give you focus on the subject that YOU want, not the camera's computer. You do have to keep your aim on the subject. I also always use Manual Exposure because I want a particular Aperture and a particular Shutter Speed. You can use AP and SP but have to set those other limits to do what you want in your parameters. ie, you want f/2.8 for subject isolation and you want a high shutter speed to stop action. you need both with AUTO ISO to control the ISO Though one particular person here on TPF showed AP with parameters to counter if it got too bright the shutter would increase if the camera was at base ISO for a proper exposure. Once I got all that and worked on my finger's ability to push the button half way my capture rate for in-focus shots skyrocketed. Many times I knew when I took a shot that was OOF before looking at it. (I have to Focus Acquire turned off) As the action moved I also kept the focus throw short by focusing on the moving action but not taking a pic unless I wanted too. This minimized the focus throw distance for the lens and improved keepers once again. I also try to get the action (primarily soccer) moving towards me. So I'm not in the "middle" of the sidelines but I try to be at the corners to get the action and faces coming towards me.