shutter sync on the 10d with monolight

Discussion in 'Beyond the Basics' started by Osmer_Toby, Jun 4, 2004.

  1. Osmer_Toby

    Osmer_Toby TPF Noob!

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    i started working with a monolight off my 10d yesterday- i found that i could not get the shutter to sync properly above a speed of 250- is this normal? the light is a 20 yr old bogen. when i shot at that speed, i did get excellent results anyway, but shouldn't i be able to go faster? the fstop for that speed was around 9 or so (maybe a little higher, i can't remember exactly) so i had too much dof for a good portrait shot...
    i was shooting on iso 100 with focal length of about 85 mm on a 20-135 zoom...

    any ideas why this is happening? do i need to do something else to get the camera to sync up with the monolight?
     
  2. voodoocat

    voodoocat ))<>(( Supporting Member

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    isn't the top shutter synch 1/250 on the 10D?
     
  3. Osmer_Toby

    Osmer_Toby TPF Noob!

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    if that's the case, then it makes sense. my next question, tho, is how do you get a shallow dof when such a high stop is required? or do people just not worry about it and use a good backdrop?
     
  4. markc

    markc TPF Noob!

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    It's 1/200, though it might be better when used with the new Canon flashes.
     
  5. markc

    markc TPF Noob!

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    Try backing off on the light output.
     
  6. voodoocat

    voodoocat ))<>(( Supporting Member

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    For full control you need the monolights where you can adjust the output power on the flash itself.

    You could always tape paper to the flash head to get less light from it. Then don't shoot with TTL. Adjust the exposure manually.
     
  7. Osmer_Toby

    Osmer_Toby TPF Noob!

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    ya, i was going manual the whole way. problem with these lights is you can only cut power in half- that's the extent of the control you have with them. unless there is a setting or settings i have yet to figure out- which is entirely possible. at any rate, i'm breathing a sigh of relief right now knowing it wasn't a defect in the camera. guess i need to re-read the manual.

    as a side note- are not soft-boxes the greatest thing since sliced negatives? man, i am head over heels in love with the soft light thrown by the one i'm using on the bogen...
     
  8. voodoocat

    voodoocat ))<>(( Supporting Member

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    Yeah, soft boxes are great. soft directional lighting is wonderful. In fact I think I'm going to make one of those puppies this weekend with some foam core :D
     
  9. markc

    markc TPF Noob!

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    If you have room, you could move the lights further away, but this isn't possible with some lighting situations. Light fall-off is non-linear. Every time you double the distance, you cut the light reaching the subject down by 75%.

    ie, the light reaching the subject with the strobe at 6' is 1/4 of that reaching the subject at 3'. At 12', is a 1/4 of what it was at 6'.
     
  10. Osmer_Toby

    Osmer_Toby TPF Noob!

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    this will definitely play in my solution- i do have room to move it back...
    thanks, man :D
     

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