Slide film.

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Fuji Velvia 100 metered with my 1964 Spotmatic. It's not as hard as some make it seem. Terri has it spot on. I didn't even bracket my first roll and every exposure came out perfectly, just using my Spotmatic's metering system.

I don't think there's any negative that could get greens and detail like that.

Give it a shot. My processing place charges me the same to process/mount/scan/4x6 print it as b/w film and will do it in about 24 hours.

I don't think I'll ever shoot color negative again.
 
I don't think I'll ever shoot color negative again.

I second that one! :lovey:

Oh, and Max, what's this "Ilfochrome" of which you speak? And why does it blow the doors off the rest of the color world? Not that I don't believe you, of course, but I'm intriqued now.
 
Why when I shoot on slide do the shots come out so much darker and sometimes unusable when on the same settings shots from film of the same iso come out fine?:banghead:
 
I would say either your film is severely out of date or you are not shooting with the same settings in the same light at the same ISO. There is no trick to it, proper exposure will give proper exposure. Print film does have more latitude generally so if you are a little off it should still come out fine, but shots that are way off are not likely to come out very well even in prints.

Dave
 
I got my first roll of slide today! Prints coming soon!
 
Quality is vastly more affected by the skills of the person involved than inherent properties of the materials. Learn what slide film is and does, and what it's strengths and weaknesses are, and if they would be suited for your style and subject matter.

The same applies to printing methods. If you are not seeing inkjet prints that match or beat Ilfochrome prints, then you need to meet new printers. The hardcore Ilfochrome printers I know all switched to inkjet prints years ago. Not because it was cheaper of more convenient, but because they felt they were getting significantly better results with the new technology. These aren't goofballs; these are people who make their 100% of their living selling their personal work. They had their own darkrooms set up for Ilfochrome process and they were very good at it, or they would have the work done at some of the best custom Ilfochrome labs in the country.
 
Why when I shoot on slide do the shots come out so much darker and sometimes unusable when on the same settings shots from film of the same iso come out fine?:banghead:
I may be wrong, but perhaps it is because when your negative film gets developed the developing machine corrects slightly for color and exposure? Slide film is developed as is unless you specifically ask for a bump in stop? Just throwing a possibility out there....I don't know for sure.

Brian
 
I may be wrong, but perhaps it is because when your negative film gets developed the developing machine corrects slightly for color and exposure? Slide film is developed as is unless you specifically ask for a bump in stop? Just throwing a possibility out there....I don't know for sure.

Brian

No. The underexposure would be the same for either film. With the slide film you are looking at the film itself. With print film you are viewing a print made from the film itself that was corrected for exposure in printing. The negative would still be underexposed.

Transparency film needs to be exposed correctly. There is no intermediate step to hide the errors.
 
Quality is vastly more affected by the skills of the person involved than inherent properties of the materials. Learn what slide film is and does, and what it's strengths and weaknesses are, and if they would be suited for your style and subject matter.

The same applies to printing methods. If you are not seeing inkjet prints that match or beat Ilfochrome prints, then you need to meet new printers. The hardcore Ilfochrome printers I know all switched to inkjet prints years ago. Not because it was cheaper of more convenient, but because they felt they were getting significantly better results with the new technology. These aren't goofballs; these are people who make their 100% of their living selling their personal work. They had their own darkrooms set up for Ilfochrome process and they were very good at it, or they would have the work done at some of the best custom Ilfochrome labs in the country.

Matt, are you sure you mean inkjets and not lightjets? Because I've printed on the best of the best inkjets and the results are never quite as good. But I suppose that's just my opinion.

I understand what your point is, but I'm still taking it with a grain of salt. You know, it's really quite similar to the rest of the "digital revolution." When DSlr's came out, a lot of people made the switch for a number of reasons. I know a lot of guys who switched from ilfochrome, too. But that's mostly because the chemicals started getting too expensive. The fact that they switched doesn't necessarily mean that inkjets are better. But like I said, your point is well taken.
 
No. The underexposure would be the same for either film. With the slide film you are looking at the film itself. With print film you are viewing a print made from the film itself that was corrected for exposure in printing. The negative would still be underexposed.

Transparency film needs to be exposed correctly. There is no intermediate step to hide the errors.

Ahhh, gotcha. See, I love learning something new every time I come here :thumbup: :mrgreen:

Brian
 
On the same subject, I swear that I once saw someone claim that Fuji Provia 400 is one of the best and most versitile color (slide) films in the world. Anyone care to elaborate on that one?
 
Well, I've heard it's as good as it gets for a 400 film. I don't think it would out-do Velvia 50 (or any other slow film) at what it does, but it probably comes much closer than you would think for a 400 film.

Dave
 
hmm i had to use slide film in my first year at PSC what i found is the that there is only about five stops of difference between highlights and shadows. dont be to sad if your first roll messes up you pretty much have to get the exposure bang on for it to work . . .
 
On the same subject, I swear that I once saw someone claim that Fuji Provia 400 is one of the best and most versitile color (slide) films in the world. Anyone care to elaborate on that one?

I've definitely made that claim before. Provia 400 is so amazing because it is capable of both saturated colors and natural skin tones, has extraordinarily fine grain (almost as fine as Provia 100), and can be pushed or pulled from 100 to 800.
 
I have used Provia 100 as a standard film for many, many years. It is still my standard color film. Accurate colors, fine grain, neutral contrast. Great stuff.
 

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