Small Tank Procedure

Discussion in 'Photography Beginners' Forum' started by Commonman, Apr 11, 2008.

  1. Commonman

    Commonman TPF Noob!

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    I'm using a small plastic tank and developing 120 b&w film.
    I'm pretty clear on the first step. I'm using HC-110 and I have the tech sheet from Kodak and other resource information.

    I am unclear on what to do after I pour out the developer.
    I know I add stop, fixer and rinse but I can't remember how long I keep the stop in and how I should agitate during stopping and, how long I should keep the fixer in and the agitation process during this stage.
     
  2. fightheheathens

    fightheheathens TPF Noob!

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    i actually dont use stop, I just run water through the container for a minute then put in my fixer for 3-5 min depending on how old the fixer is. I agitate the fixer just like i do the developer (though im much less strict about it) then i rinse the film under water for 5 min

    so i cant imagine you would need to have the stop in for more then a minute
     
  3. christopher walrath

    christopher walrath No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    This is for TMax (TMX-120)

    First I mix my chems form the stock solutions for one-shot use.

    HC110 Dilution B (1:31) (0.5 ounces HC110 to 15.5 ounces 68F water)
    Kodak Indicator Stop Bath (1:63) (0.25 ounces Bath to 15.75 ounces 68F water)
    Kodafix Fixing Agent (1:3) (4 ounces Kodafix to 12 ounces 68F water)
    For water I use tap as long as I don't taste the monthly chemical dump from a test drink I take first.

    Seal your door edges so that no light comes into the room. Then I load the film in the dark. (If you're new at this, ppractice this in the light with a practice roll, first looking at it, then with eyes closed.) First, TURN OUT THE LIGHTS. (OOOOOOHHHHHH, SCARY!!!!!!) Then I seperate the film from the paper backing until I get to the tape on the inner end. I pull the tape off the paper and fold it over the end of the film. Then I feed the taped end into the clip and load the film into the reel, checking for slack every half turn (1/4 inch or so). If the film moves then keep going. If not, you skipped a loop, go back, fix it and then proceed. The end will want to curl so take your time and make sure that the film is settled into both spools on the reel so that there is a seperation between the edge of the film and the inner loop. Put the film into the tank, close the lid and then turn on your lights.

    Get out your timer, your thermometer (to maintain temp of running water), a towel to wipe up chems or splashed water.

    WATER PRESOAK ONE MINUTE
    Fill the tank with 68F water for a one minute presoak. I agitate once initially during the presoak.

    DEVELOP SIX MINUTES
    Dump water in sink, fill the tank with developer. Agitate continuously first 30 seconds then 5 seconds for every thirty through the six minute development time.

    (Note: When filling the tank, a. fill near the edge of the sink so if you get an air bubble you don't have to move far to tap it loose and b. hold tank at an angle to prevent air bubble from forming in the first place.)

    STOP BATH THIRTY SECONDS
    Dump developer into sink. Fill tank with stop bath. Agitate once initailly.

    FIXER FOR FIVE MINUTES
    Dump stop bath into sink. Fill tank with fixer. I agitate once every twenty seconds for duration of fixing.

    WATER RINSE
    5-10-20
    I do it this way which takes less time and water. Fill tank with water and agitate five times. Pour out. Refill and agitate ten times. Pour out and refill. Agitate twenty times. Pour out.

    PHOTO FLO DRYING AGENT ONE MINUTE.
    Lift the reel out of the tank, pour a wee little bit of the Photo FLo or a drop of dishsoap into the bottom of the tank and fill, replacing the reel into the tank and let water run for one minute. Then turn off water, remove film from reel, run between index and middle finger to 'squeegee' water from the negative strip and hang dry. I use wood clothespins, one on top, one on bottom. Rinse sink and gear THOROUGHLY, turn on fan and leave film to dry for about an hour. Then cut and store in archive sheets.
     
  4. Alpha

    Alpha Troll Extraordinaire

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    You can get away with not using a stop bath. HC-110 is a pretty slow-working developer and it's hard to over-develop things in it.
     
  5. christopher walrath

    christopher walrath No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Be careful. If you add 30 seconds to developing time, it's not only hard but done.
     
  6. Commonman

    Commonman TPF Noob!

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    CW: Okay, thanks. This confirms that what I've been doing, for the most part, is correct. However, I have not heard of a water pre-soak so have not tried this. Would you care to elaborate on the reasoning behind the water pre-soak?
     
  7. Commonman

    Commonman TPF Noob!

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    Alpha, OK, but I've got a bunch of stop bath solution so I might as well use it.
    Regarding over developing, I'm not too obsessive - compulsive about the time and I don't see how one can be that exact anyway....but I try to get all the developer out of the tank before the time is up and get the stop in there immediatly.
     

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