So I've been shooting my D40 for 7 months now

Discussion in 'Photography Beginners' Forum' started by hankejp, Mar 6, 2009.

  1. hankejp

    hankejp TPF Noob!

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    I went back and re-read the manual. I actually understood everything they were talking about in it this time.

    Thanks to this forums that is.

    Thanks TPF.....:lmao:


    Couple of Side questions thought. I have a SB-600. Is there a way to have the flash off camera using infrared, or does it need to be tethered or cactus triggers.(I think that is what they are).

    2nd question, looking at a tutorial on HDRs. The guys talked about Canons having the ability to take 3 consecutive shots in a row. 1 underexp, 1 normal, and 1 overexp, without the shoot doing anything. Is this possible with Nikon, or my D40 to be exact?

    Thanks
     
  2. Big Mike

    Big Mike I am Big, I am Mike Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Some Nikon bodies can use the built-in flash, in Commander Mode, to control an off-camera slave flash. I don't think the D40 has that capability though. You could get a master capable flash, like the SB-800 to trigger your SB-600 though.

    Radio triggers are an option. There is a whole range of them available....starting at the cheap cactus triggers and getting more expensive from there.

    This is called Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB) and most/all Canon SLR cameras have this feature. I think many Nikon and other brands also have this feature but I seem to remember reading that the D40 does not.

    It's easy enough to just adjust the exposure up and down and take three shots though.
     
  3. MikeBcos

    MikeBcos TPF Noob!

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    What Mike said, he's correct on both counts, no Commander mode on the D40, I use wireless triggers. No auto-bracketing on the D40, it's easy enough to do manually though.
     
  4. dcclark

    dcclark TPF Noob!

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    Easiest way to do an HDR on the D40 is:

    0. see what "P" or "Auto" mode chooses for exposure.
    1. put it in manual mode and choose the same settings as you found in step 0.
    2. slap it on a tripod (to keep the positioning the same)
    3. turn OFF Auto ISO (it inexplicably stays on in manual mode -- kind of defeats the purpose)
    4. take three consecutive shots, adjusting aperture by one stop each time: go one above the metered exposure, and one below it. In extreme situations, go two.

    Enjoy!
     
  5. MikeBcos

    MikeBcos TPF Noob!

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    I would add to this, switch the lens to MF once it has focus to prevent any changes. Also, I would alter the shutter speed rather than the aperture to avoid any possible changes in depth of field.

    It is easier to change the shutter speed on the D40 while in manual, it just involves turning the thumb wheel, changing the aperture means holding a button then turning the wheel.
     
  6. hankejp

    hankejp TPF Noob!

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    Thanks for the replies guys. Sounds very sounds tips as usual.
     
  7. hankejp

    hankejp TPF Noob!

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    How much are you suppose to over & under expose those shots? 1 tick on the D40 is 1/3 +- EV.

    Thanks
     
  8. Katier

    Katier TPF Noob!

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    Why not just use exposure compensation? Seems a long winded way of doing it.. plus adjusting the aperture will effect depth of field.

    I'd drop her in aperture priority mode. Set the aperture for the depth of field I wanted then use exposure compensation to bracket the exposure for the HDR processing.
     
  9. SrBiscuit

    SrBiscuit TPF Noob!

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    +1 :thumbup:
     
  10. mrodgers

    mrodgers No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    The issue I see with using aperture priority and exposure compensation is some cameras you need exposure compensation already to get a correct exposure. With my camera, I always shoot in Av or expose in manual to -1.0 EV. Thus I could only do +1.0 rather than a +2.0.

    I believe I can recall many people stating that they always use -0.7 EV with the D40 much like I always have my camera at -1.0. Of course it would also depend on what overall range a camera has with EV. Mine is only +2.0 overall range.
     
  11. Josh66

    Josh66 Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    3 clicks is one stop. (Your camera is set to adjust in 1/3 stop increments, you can usually change that to 1/2 stop increments if you want to.)

    "Normal", 1 stop over, and 1 stop under would be ok in most situations.
    Sometimes you might have to go 2 stops, or 1 stop and 2 stops.
    It all depends on how far apart the brightest area is from the darkest area.

    If you only bracket by 1/3 of a stop, you're not going to see a huge difference in them.
     

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