some help with 2 things

Discussion in 'Photography Equipment & Products' started by papatooth, Dec 14, 2009.

  1. papatooth

    papatooth TPF Noob!

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    how does the canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM work with a UV filter and a polarizer? If well, what polarizer should i look at purchasing. i dont want to spend a crazy amount but i want something decent enough.

    what should i be looking for when using an EF2XII extender with a EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM. I'm seriously thinking of purchasing this lens and want to hear some opinion about the extender.
     
  2. benhasajeep

    benhasajeep TPF Noob!

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    You can use a circular polarizer with a very wide angle lens. But, you will not get a consistant effect across the entire frame. But, it can be delt with and used in the picture. Say for instance. You adjust the polarizer so the frame has the most effect at the left with it slowly declining to the right. Like a graduated filer going across the frame. Or with the highest effect in the center and gradually diminishing to either side.

    There is no hard fast rule that you can or can't. It just deppends on the effect you are looking for. But due to the way polarization is about angles. And the wide angle lens bringing in light from a very wide angle. A polarizer can't correct for the entire area covered by the lens.

    But that doesn't mean you can't get a good pic using one!!
     
  3. Derrel

    Derrel Mr. Rain Cloud

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    The better grade Hoya polarizers seem acceptable to a lot of people who have bought them.

    As far as adding a 2x converter to the already slowish 100-400, expect to lose autofocusing. I'm not a fan of 2x extenders...400mm at an effective f/11 is not going to do you much good under many circumstances. I think 1.4x converters and a bit of at-the-computer cropping would be a better way to go than a 2x converter that costs two whole f/stops and kills the autofocusing. The whole two-stop loss thing is a drag,and your effevtive apertures are all really small and diffraction starts causing a loss of image quality and the lens is wide-open at many apertures you will need for motion-stopping, so the entire 2x converter thing is just a major drag on anything less than an f/2.8 lens. I honestly think with a 12MP or better camera, you can get better quality by cropping and then up-sampling the file,rather than using a 2x on a slower zoom lens.
     

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