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Just doing a bit of research, I think I better understand this concept of dragging the shutter. It makes total sense...
however... I have found plenty of evidence to indicate that you do get motion blur on your background (and you may get fringing on your primary subjects as well) on the longer shutter times... are those of you who do this merely accepting the results of this effect?
And it seems that your educational level is that of a preschooler... becuase that's where they teach the difference between KNOW and NO.Your the forum no at all.
lmao! You need a few more days of reading then.It took me about 3 days of reading your bully type posts to figure that out.
Give me your best shot, I can take it... something apparently YOU cannot.You lack experience and know how, and your posts show it. I am going to love to give you a dose of your own medicine. That means to rebuttal your post, then insult the poster you disagree with...that your MO, and so lets see if you like your own medicine, ok?
For one thing, a true pro knows how to drag the shutter. That means he shoots indoor shots at night at ISO 400 to mitigate noise the best. Sure your camera provides clean ISO 800 or 1600 but ISO 400 is much cleaner.
In addition to your ignorance, you fail to understand that once you are in a room, you IN FACT can use the same exact settings for all the shots, baring special rare circumstances. This is because iTTL or E-TTL <SNIP>
Only an ignorant nubee would flash shots indoors at ISO 1600 if he doesn't need to do so.
So Mr. 300 weddings... are you telling me that you use TTL flash ALL THE TIME? Even in church ceremonies where you are specifically told not to? Or where you are more then 35 feet away from the subject? Someone here is showing their ignorance at this moment... and its not me.ISO... Saying over 800 is too much is an obvious sign of someone lacking a little real life experience in low light situations where flashes are impractical.
I would suggest you step up and learn how to shoot in a way that utilizes your camera maker's flash logic, call it E-TTL, or iTTL or just TTL
Now set the body to manual, flash to full auto so that it takes advantage of your camera maker's flash logic.
And yes, like thousands of other wedding pros have found, 1/20s shutter speed is not too slow because the flash will freeze hand held and subject movement. I often find 1/15s to be fine too...THE FLASH FREEZES MOVEMENT WITH VERY SLOW SHUTTER SPEEDS....
I've shot at least 300 weddings
Not in all cases! If you are the average wedding photographer that cannot use a flash all the time or struggle to try to flash people 30, 40 or more feet away, that a lot of your pictures have to... suck! It's either that or you are the kind of photographer that is ALWAYS 30 feet or closer to your subjects. Which means your candids have to suck (you cannot get sincerely good candids when you are 5 feet away from the subject flashing away!). Your formals in larger weddings DEFINITELY will have to suck because of the physics of what a single on camera flash can (and in this case CANNOT) light.using this flashing strategy and it works great. Nearly all my weddings are inside very dark churchs AND I HAVE NEVER HAD TO USE AN ISO FASTER THEN 400. EVER.
I was not bullying, but I can see how someone with issues and is insecure could see this. I accept no resposability for your insecurities. I am a newbie, I never said otherwise or bragged about doing 300 weddings with settings that are laughable to anyone that knows... but you have proven to everyone here... that you are a newbie too.So before you start bullying people around and acting like a no-at-all, first consider that you really don't know as much as you think.
(I think that SilverGlow's attack was unjustified)
Sometimes it seems appropriate, sometimes it doesn't. It's rather like colour balance. Sometimes you want the flash to be perfectly colour balanced with the ambient light, sometimes you don't.
As Jerry explained (I think that SilverGlow's attack was unjustified) there are times when you need a fast shutter speed, and that may require a high ISO. In many of the situation in which I take pictures using flash and ambient combined, the effect of some motion blur is acceptable and, I believe, adds to the life of the scene. Though most of my pictures of this nature are unsuitable for public display, this thread has examples of mixed ambient and flash, with blur and sharpness. The flash was gelled to match the colour temperature of the ambient light. Only #2 was taken without flash.
Best,
Helen
Helen, I would challage you to read several weeks worth of Jerry's postings. Surely you too (as MANY have) see that he is a bully, and know-it-all, and very sophomoric (look that one up).
...
If your definition of giving me "a dose" was to make me chuckle... you succeeded. Other than that, whatever else your agenda was, it failed... sorry.I gave him a dose of his own medicine.
...and he talks about wedding photography as though he actually shot one. Based on his postings he has never shot a wedding, as he knows very little about proper camera workflow duing a wedding.
Silver, cut it out. Jerry is a good guy. I don't think you're being here a month and using some heavy percentage of your 26 posts to whomp on someone who contributes in a consistently helpful manner is a very productive use of your time.
I resent his constant back-handed comments out of trying to be "helpful"...I just gave him a dose of his own style....I back handed him, but if you look at the genesis of this issue, you will READLY see that he started us down this path with his back-handed reply to one of my responses....one can readly see his posts, several hundred perhaps, that are riddled with back-handed snippy flippant responses, and if one can't see that then I question the level of their self-esteam....
I disagree with your position and your methods. I feel you are completely out of line. You have firmly earned a complete lack of respect from me. I won't say anything further on this in the public space.