To people who shoot in full manual most of the time...

Not necessarily better if you don't like heavy cameras....
Not necessarily better if you can't afford it
Not necessarily better if you need more than 8 megapixels
Not necessarily better if you need something discreet.
Not necessarily better if you need more resolving capabilities of MF/LF
Not necessarily better if you need higher ISO performance (5D)...
Not necessarily better if you like to use older manual lenses...


See?? you get my point?? There are better choices given a specific purpose but a blanket, black and white statement that states A is better than B is futile.

Its a lesson that way too many people miss because we all suffer from G.A.S. to a certain extent.

Now ask me which is better... the 1dMII or my M8? The question is impossible to answer.


baaahaaaa.... i get ur point... i believe in it too! Just pulling your chain...
 
My toaster is more complex than any of my cameras in manual. I say that to encourage those who haven't taken the short time necessary to master M mode to do so. Remember, before 1960ish everyone shot in full manual from kids and grannies to pros. They all figured it out, and you can too. Not too long before that many photogs didn't even have light meters. Figuring exposure with your eyes and brain is easy too. It just requires practice. Digital cameras sure make practice easy.
 
My toaster is more complex than any of my cameras in manual.

So is mine!

I've got Toaster version 5, you?


Remember, before 1960ish everyone shot in full manual from kids and grannies to pros. They all figured it out...

That was before America was dumbed down by design. :D


The one lesson that I see most people miss all-the-time is that there is no such thing as "better". Just different tools in a tool box. Discussions are fine and educational but getting a black and white answer to the question "better?" is futile.

Ooo, Hits the nail square on the head! bulls-eye, strike, home-run, touchdown, goal, score, +1, etc. :D


dEARlEADER wrote:
what about a day game with variable clouds? same technique?


Maybe. More likely a spot meter in program mode though - especially if they're fast moving like I think you're implying.

just grey card after every environment change?

If it's more than like 10 min. apart then yes. But probably don't need to a third time. We already know the bright one, and we resampled the cloud-blocked-sun one. So we've got both and can just switch back and forth. I can be as dynamic as the weather tho with modes and etc. Including putting my camera away all together when the hail storm starts. :D


you have to meter off hot spots, soft spots, dugouts, cloud density and make a mental note like this -- (pop fly) okay... left field hot spot deduct 1/3 stop... medium cloud saturation deduct 2/3 stop... oh wait it's going deep to the fence out of the hot spot add 1/3 stop...

Those sound like impossible conditions. Is that a little league game with two moms in the outfield holding torches? :D

[video=google;-8281214729697017605]http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8281214729697017605[/video]
[video=google;-4071492603185474862]http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4071492603185474862[/video]
http://www.replayphotos.com/wakefor...t/aerial-close-up-of-groves-stadium_10751.cfm
http://www.replayphotos.com/wakefor...wake-forest-football-field-at-night_10755.cfm
http://www.replayphotos.com/wakeforestphotos/stadiums-print/groves-stadium-aerial_3346.cfm
http://www.smh.com.au/ffximage/2004/07/30/matutai_wideweb__430x252.jpg
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s158/44Gloworm44/jackspictures18thapril2008207.jpg


The method sounds good.... if the ambient lighting remains the same... but I can see missed shots if you meter under a cloud take a few snaps... grab some beer and a dog.... the cloud moves out.... the fat naked streaker runs out on the field... you drop your dog to take a snap....the exposures off.... now you have a fat naked overexposed guy...


:lmao: http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=9sdTIXPU1Dg :lmao:


thank you for explaining.... I better understand now... I'll give it a try next time i'm in that situation...:):)
 
when I first learned to use cameras i was taught to use in manual mode. then i figured out the rest of the gadjets on my cameras.

I use manual in studio settings that require, strobes, powerpacks etc..
outdoor shots with tricky off camera flash use. but ive also used it in everything else from action shots to portraits and of course bulb.

I know how to use it but i hardly do it anymore, its to easy to use todays digital cameras, they do alot of the work for you. but if need to i can rely on my skills of shooting M.

I do have light meters. 3 of them, dont use them much anymore, but can pull one out of the bag anytime and take readings.

I also have a Mamiya6x7 thats old ashell and of course is a full manual camera that i can operate easily.

Now a days I shoot In av tv and only some M.
 
I use M for flash and for Birds in flight.

With BIF it's fairly necessary as the background is changing all the time, which will send the cameras metering all over the place.
 
i cant stand the camera choosing for me. i shoot sports all the time. I like to get everything perfectly dialed just how i want each particular shot to look.
 

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