TPF Darkroom Film Snobs Print Exchange

TPF Darkroom Snobs Print Exchange


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terri said:
Does Dektol at 1:1 fizzle out after about a dozen prints? They're still usable, but it surprised me.

Depends on how much Dektol. Kodak says Dektol mixed 1:2 will do 32 8x10s per liter or 120 8x10s per gallon.
 
mmmm, I had about 1.5 qts 1:1 in that tray...the only variable I can think of is *maybe* the water temp changed over a couple hours time....I can't say for sure I didn't start out with warmer tap water. arrgh, I should have paid attention. Could a cooler temp have made a difference? I KNOW I didn't change the time or agitation, that's the only variable I'm not certain about.
 
terri said:
the only variable I can think of is *maybe* the water temp changed over a couple hours time... Could a cooler temp have made a difference? I KNOW I didn't change the time or agitation, that's the only variable I'm not certain about.

Hi Terri, temperature is an important factor, and even if you manage to keep it constante over time, the developer gets exausted over time, so you shouldn't be printing with the same time throughout your session.

The method I use is to develop my print 6 times the time it takes for the first image to show on the paper. Example: If you see the faint image on the paper 10 seconds after you put it in the developer, your development time should be 60 seconds. This is what I get with Dektol 1:2 with RC paper.

With FB paper I usualy get 2 minutes dev time when the developer is fresh and 2.5 to 3 by the end of my session. (12x16" prints... ;-))

You should also run another test, take the time your print takes to show the first image, expose a few strips of paper with a grey scale and process for 3, 4, 5, to 8 or more times your base time.

You will then compare them side by side, looking for maximum black buy paying attention to the whites as well, you don't want to overdevelop and get chemical fogging.

This test will tell you your multiplication factor (6 in my case), the tolerance (ou may be good from 5 to 7, 5 gets you full development and 7 isn't causing fog yet.

Hope this helps.
 
luis.martins said:
Hi Terri, temperature is an important factor, and even if you manage to keep it constante over time, the developer gets exausted over time, so you shouldn't be printing with the same time throughout your session.

The method I use is to develop my print 6 times the time it takes for the first image to show on the paper. Example: If you see the faint image on the paper 10 seconds after you put it in the developer, your development time should be 60 seconds. This is what I get with Dektol 1:2 with RC paper.

With FB paper I usualy get 2 minutes dev time when the developer is fresh and 2.5 to 3 by the end of my session. (12x16" prints... ;-))

You should also run another test, take the time your print takes to show the first image, expose a few strips of paper with a grey scale and process for 3, 4, 5, to 8 or more times your base time.

You will then compare them side by side, looking for maximum black buy paying attention to the whites as well, you don't want to overdevelop and get chemical fogging.

This test will tell you your multiplication factor (6 in my case), the tolerance (ou may be good from 5 to 7, 5 gets you full development and 7 isn't causing fog yet.

Hope this helps.
Thank you! That will definitely be useful in helping me to gauge where I'm at. I am hoping for another print session this weekend, and will keep these notes nearby! :D
 
sillyphaunt said:
I'm excited! :)

Could we do Holga prints? I'm in love with that camera :lol:

I'm getting excited too! Printed half (4) of the first photo I'm sending! Hope to get the other 3 done when I get home tonight! Now I've just gotta find another negative to print for the second photo,(any requests?).

I'm sure any camera you wish to use would be fine with everyone! I personally like photos from Holgas! You never know what you're gonna get! :)

Zach :D
 
tr0gd0o0r said:
So is just watching the print until I think its finished not such a good idea?

You should probably pick a standard development time to use, whether you follow the paper manfacturer's recommendation, or use a method like suggested by luis.martins. Keeping the variables (development time, agitation, etc...) down gives you more control. Also, it can be difficult to see everything under safelights.

I use 1 min for RC and 2 min for FB, although there are papers I change this for.
 
If you saw the other post, Sillyphaunt isn't going to be able to participate (maybe next time :) ), so that makes the list

1. Orie
2. Terri
3. Aggiezach
4. Havoc
5. KSmattfish
6. tr0gd0o0r
7. Santino

KevinR and luis.martins have suggested they might be interested in participating. It should be easy for one of them to take Sillyphaunt's position as we were already preparing for 8 people. I don't know if folks would be prepared for 9 people or not? It's okay with me. Let's hear what you all think. And Luis and Kevin let us know if you are interested in participating in this exchange. Prints need to be in the mail by March 1, 2005. I'll PM everyone my address when we know who's participating for sure.

It's 2 prints and a contact sheet for each participant.
With 7 people that means you'll send me 6 each of 2 different prints (12 total), and 6 contact sheets.
With 8 people it's 7 each of 2 different prints (14 total), and 7 contact sheets.
With 9 people it would be 8 each of 2 different prints (16 total), and 8 contact sheets.
 
I Matt, like I've already posted in the other thread, I don't think I'll be able to find time to participate. Better to be out of this print exchange than let everyone down.
 
Hey Matt,
I'm game. It shouldn't be a problem getting the prints done. Just PM me with the pertinent info.
 

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