Using Ortho film: Why is film continuous tone?

[beala]

 

[Alpha]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y82uem2A0q8"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y82uem2A0q8[/ame]

 

[Petraio Prime]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKtwlHV1-O8[/ame]

 

[Vautrin]

Or, we could settle this the easy way. Once the OP gets their film back and determines that the results are, indeed, continuous tone, the OP can call the lab and ask what they developed in. Clearly it was not in RLC.

Perhaps that is the best way to deal with this.

I will find out what developer my lab used, and in two or three days when I receive my film, I'll post some pictures to show the results...

 

[Vautrin]

I called up the photo lab I used, and the developer was in fact Rollei LC (low contrast). (They're a german photo lab, maybe that's why they use Rollei chemistry, and they do good work (and speak english) Photo Studio 13 - Fachlabor und Digitalservice in Leinfelden-Echterdingen bei Stuttgart or [email protected])

In terms of pictures, below are some of my results. These were all shot in the dutch province of Zeeland with a Mamiya RZ67, and scanned using a Canoscan 8800F. Minimal postproduction was done, just cropping and making sure the histogram wasn't bunched up to one side.

The weird thing with the film is those white spots are actually black splotches on the edge of the negative. Anyone know what might cause that? I did abuse the film a little (I left it in a hot car when it was 40C / 100F out)

Keep in mind I was playing around, not really looking for great shots just to see how the film looks, so any errors in composition are my fault not the film :

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I think I'd like to shoot a roll of Ortho and compare it with the retro or maybe some ilford HP5. I may post the pictures at some point -- I think it could be interesting, because it's hard to see how the lack of red sensitivity effects the way the picture looks.

 

[Alpha]

The spots seem like light leaks. Why they're in different places I don't know. Are these shot on 120? This can be sometimes be caused by sloppiness when rolling up your film.

Guess we'll never know the answer to the developer question.

 

[Vautrin]

The spots seem like light leaks. Why they're in different places I don't know. Are these shot on 120? This can be sometimes be caused by sloppiness when rolling up your film.

Guess we'll never know the answer to the developer question.

I'm tempted to give them another roll and tell them not to develop it in rollei LC just to see what it looks like

 

[Petraio Prime]

The spots seem like light leaks. Why they're in different places I don't know. Are these shot on 120? This can be sometimes be caused by sloppiness when rolling up your film.

Guess we'll never know the answer to the developer question.

I'm tempted to give them another roll and tell them not to develop it in rollei LC just to see what it looks like

Looks like a good lab!

 

[epatsellis]

All I will say in reply is that if everyone followed the maxim that the only way to get the "best results" was to follow the rules on the box, life would be very boring. To illustrate this point, and one I made earlier, if you read the spec sheet for Delta 100, Ilford will swear that the only way to get the "best overall image quality" is to use Ilfotec-DDX or ID-11, and the only way to get "maximum sharpness" or "finest grain" is to develop in Ilfotec HC or Perceptol. Having shot a lot of Delta 100, I could not be more convinced that the best prints are from Delta 100 negatives that have been developed in a staining developer.

Wow, and to think, some of us use lith film (real lith film) in ULF sizes due to cost, between 16x20 and 20x24, I have probably 1000 sheets sitting here,total cost of $0. Dektol 1:9 with a pinch of benzo and sodium sulphite and it get wonderful contone negs every time. Makes splendid gum bichromate prints. Granted the EI of around 6 is limiting, but you can't have it all. I also have a 42" roll of Agfa N31P I've been working through, EI of 25, but trickier to get the exposure nailed.

Then there's the xray film, as well as cross processing (Fuji CDU dupe film being my present favorite, due to having ~500 sheets of it), pyro developers, caffenol, self mixed developers, the list just goes on and on. I"m with you Alpha, if one has the desire to experiment, why not???

 

[Petraio Prime]

All I will say in reply is that if everyone followed the maxim that the only way to get the "best results" was to follow the rules on the box, life would be very boring. To illustrate this point, and one I made earlier, if you read the spec sheet for Delta 100, Ilford will swear that the only way to get the "best overall image quality" is to use Ilfotec-DDX or ID-11, and the only way to get "maximum sharpness" or "finest grain" is to develop in Ilfotec HC or Perceptol. Having shot a lot of Delta 100, I could not be more convinced that the best prints are from Delta 100 negatives that have been developed in a staining developer.

Wow, and to think, some of us use lith film (real lith film) in ULF sizes due to cost, between 16x20 and 20x24, I have probably 1000 sheets sitting here,total cost of $0. Dektol 1:9 with a pinch of benzo and sodium sulphite and it get wonderful contone negs every time. Makes splendid gum bichromate prints. Granted the EI of around 6 is limiting, but you can't have it all. I also have a 42" roll of Agfa N31P I've been working through, EI of 25, but trickier to get the exposure nailed.

Then there's the xray film, as well as cross processing (Fuji CDU dupe film being my present favorite, due to having ~500 sheets of it), pyro developers, caffenol, self mixed developers, the list just goes on and on. I"m with you Alpha, if one has the desire to experiment, why not???

Sure, go ahead. But first understand the way the materials bare supposed to work.

 

[Vautrin]

All I will say in reply is that if everyone followed the maxim that the only way to get the "best results" was to follow the rules on the box, life would be very boring. To illustrate this point, and one I made earlier, if you read the spec sheet for Delta 100, Ilford will swear that the only way to get the "best overall image quality" is to use Ilfotec-DDX or ID-11, and the only way to get "maximum sharpness" or "finest grain" is to develop in Ilfotec HC or Perceptol. Having shot a lot of Delta 100, I could not be more convinced that the best prints are from Delta 100 negatives that have been developed in a staining developer.

Wow, and to think, some of us use lith film (real lith film) in ULF sizes due to cost, between 16x20 and 20x24, I have probably 1000 sheets sitting here,total cost of $0. Dektol 1:9 with a pinch of benzo and sodium sulphite and it get wonderful contone negs every time. Makes splendid gum bichromate prints. Granted the EI of around 6 is limiting, but you can't have it all. I also have a 42" roll of Agfa N31P I've been working through, EI of 25, but trickier to get the exposure nailed.

Then there's the xray film, as well as cross processing (Fuji CDU dupe film being my present favorite, due to having ~500 sheets of it), pyro developers, caffenol, self mixed developers, the list just goes on and on. I"m with you Alpha, if one has the desire to experiment, why not???

Sure, go ahead. But first understand the way the materials bare supposed to work.

If you are doing something as a hobby, then I think you should do whatever you want.

If trying to cross process xray film in e6 chemistry, or making your own uranium based film makes you happy, have at it.