Using the Sekonic Flashmate L-308S-U

[gossamer]

Hi everyone,

I have a D500 and just got a Sekonic Flashmate L-308S-U light meter and having some difficulty figuring out how to use it. The first time I'm going to use it will be in a somewhat dimly lit room where I plan on taking portraits of people on a couch. I expect some ambient natural light as well as needing to use my new Flashpoint 600 monolight.

If you have one, I'm looking in the manual on page 16, Cordless Flash mode. I'm trying to set the shutter speed to something higher than 100 and it won't let me. In the screenshot on that page they even show 125th. I can adjust the value lower, but not higher than 100.

I think 1/100th may be enough, but I'd really like to see it at least 1/160th.

Other icons on the screen include the T (which I suppose is TTL?), and ISO is set to 200.

HSS starts above 250th, correct? I have 1/250s (Auto FP) set on the camera.

I was just thinking - if I'm using TTL on the Flashpoint, is it really necessary or advantageous to use a light meter anyway? Would it be just as effective if I set my camera to shutter priority and let the camera and flash work it out?

Thank you!

 

[Derrel]

Not sure...does the Flashpoint 6090 actuallty "do" HSS?

A few issues you need to know. NEVER, as in never-ever, shoot studio flash in Shutter priority mode.

Electronic flash weortk is best done in Manual exposure mode...srt rh D500 to M exposure mode. Set the shutter speed to 1/60 to 1/125 or thereabouts; the shutter speed does "almost nothjing" if the studiop flash is the main light source, and traditonally, 1/60 to 1/125 secomnd have eben the go-to shutter speed.

Set the f/stop yourself...in Shutter priority mode, indoors, the camera might select f/2.8...or f/4...the flash at Half power will likely deliver a blinding burst of flash power that will require f/8...

So....set camera to manual metering. Set shutter at 1/60 to 1/125 second...set f/stop smallish, like f/7.1 or f/8...set ISo to 100 or 125 or 160 or so...verrify exposures with the light meter or by the rear LCD's histogram.

THIS is HOW experiencded shooters have shot digital camera studio flash since the early 2000's...
********

TTL Flash and a flash meter...ehhhhh....I think TTL studio flash is more for beginners than for people who understand how flash works, fully understand that is.

I can only tell you that manual camera mode, human-set X-synch speed choice, human-set ISO selection, and human-set f/stop selection, ALL done by the photographer, makes it super-easy to get the desired results, shot after shot after shot, by controlling the variables, using basic manual flash setups, of all types. In my own experince, in MANY scenarios, TTL flash can give the WRONG exposure, and figuring out which variable(s) to shift can be a royal PITA.

 

[gossamer]

Not sure...does the Flashpoint 6090 actuallty "do" HSS?

This is the Flashpoint XPLOR 600 HSS. I have two of them with the Parapop 38".
Flashpoint XPLOR 600

A few issues you need to know. NEVER, as in never-ever, shoot studio flash in Shutter priority mode.

Electronic flash weortk is best done in Manual exposure mode...srt rh D500 to M exposure mode. Set the shutter speed to 1/60 to 1/125 or thereabouts; the shutter speed does "almost nothjing" if the studiop flash is the main light source, and traditonally, 1/60 to 1/125 secomnd have eben the go-to shutter speed.

I've had problems with motion blur at 1/60 and even 1/125 in the past. This has been with my SB-700.

Set the f/stop yourself...in Shutter priority mode, indoors, the camera might select f/2.8...or f/4...the flash at Half power will likely deliver a blinding burst of flash power that will require f/8...

I'm all for doing it manually without TTL. I *am* a beginner, though

Is there any expectation that I'd be able to use f2.8 with this monolight indoors? I'd like to be able to blur the background. Some of the shots will be of women sitting at the kitchen table, and I'd like to obscure the other details. This is with my 24-70mm.

So....set camera to manual metering. Set shutter at 1/60 to 1/125 second...set f/stop smallish, like f/7.1 or f/8...set ISo to 100 or 125 or 160 or so...verrify exposures with the light meter or by the rear LCD's histogram.

If I used flash compensation, can I lower the flash power enough to stop down to 2.8?

THIS is HOW experiencded shooters have shot digital camera studio flash since the early 2000's...
********

TTL Flash and a flash meter...ehhhhh....I think TTL studio flash is more for beginners than for people who understand how flash works, fully understand that is.

That's exactly what I'd like to learn how to do as well.

I can only tell you that manual camera mode, human-set X-synch speed choice, human-set ISO selection, and human-set f/stop selection, ALL done by the photographer, makes it super-easy to get the desired results, shot after shot after shot, by controlling the variables, using basic manual flash setups, of all types. In my own experince, in MANY scenarios, TTL flash can give the WRONG exposure, and figuring out which variable(s) to shift can be a royal PITA.

That's exactly the experience I've had with TTL

 

[tirediron]

The motion blur problems with your SB700 were likely due to the fact it was only providing a small part of the light in the exposure. With a 600 w/s monolight, that should easily be able to provide ALL the light for the exposure, and in effect, flash-duration becomes shutter speed, so for the purposes of motion-stopping (but NOT for exposure) this is like using a shutter-speed of >1/1000+.

You may be able to use f2.8 by using your lowest ISO and lowest power settings, but then you're likely going to have to balance ambient and flash, and you won't get the motion-freezing ability you want. A better bet might be to overpower ambient and by placing the light VERY close to the subject you can under-expose the background. It may be in focus, but will be so under-exposed as not to matter.

Flash EC has no effect in manual exposure with an off-camera flash. You want to lower the flash power output and/or ISO to acheive desired aperture.

 

[smoke665]

I have an older 308. I set the camera to manual, with 1/125th shutter, and ISO 100. I meter the lights individually for the f/stop and ratios I want and set the camera aperature accordingly. Couple of test shots to fine tune and shoot.

 

[gossamer]

The motion blur problems with your SB700 were likely due to the fact it was only providing a small part of the light in the exposure. With a 600 w/s monolight, that should easily be able to provide ALL the light for the exposure, and in effect, flash-duration becomes shutter speed, so for the purposes of motion-stopping (but NOT for exposure) this is like using a shutter-speed of >1/1000+.

Awesome, thank you. That makes sense. I've had this problem for the longest time and couldn't figure it out. I'll experiment with that.

You may be able to use f2.8 by using your lowest ISO and lowest power settings, but then you're likely going to have to balance ambient and flash, and you won't get the motion-freezing ability you want. A better bet might be to overpower ambient and by placing the light VERY close to the subject you can under-expose the background. It may be in focus, but will be so under-exposed as not to matter.

This would make the background beyond the subject very dark, correct?

Flash EC has no effect in manual exposure with an off-camera flash. You want to lower the flash power output and/or ISO to acheive desired aperture.

Oh right, of course. Thanks so much.

 

[gossamer]

I have an older 308. I set the camera to manual, with 1/125th shutter, and ISO 100. I meter the lights individually for the f/stop and ratios I want and set the camera aperature accordingly. Couple of test shots to fine tune and shoot.

I don't understand what you mean by "meter the lights individually"? Do you mean you have multiple monolights?

The problem I'm having is that I can't set the shutter speed beyond 1/100th when the mode is set for flash. I can adjust it lower than 1/100th, but not higher.

 

[smoke665]

I don't understand what you mean by "meter the lights individually"? Do you mean you have multiple monolights?

Multiple lights and reflectors, I meter each one individually with everything else turned off, to establish my contrast ration.

The problem I'm having is that I can't set the shutter speed beyond 1/100th when the mode is set for flash. I can adjust it lower than 1/100th, but not higher.

Sounds like a "Mode" issue. To meter flash the easiest is to use wirelesss. Push the "Mode" button until the screen displays what looks like a "lightning bolt with a break in the middle". The letter "T" for shutter priority should also be displayed now. Now set your shutter speed with the up/down toggles on the side. You will go up/down in either 1/2 or 1/3rd stops depending on your settings in memory. Set your ISO by pressing and holding the button below the screen and using the up/down toggle buttons on the side to increase or decrease. Once you have everything set the way you want. Press the top button on the side. The "lightning bolt with the break in the middle" will flash meaning its ready to read. Point it at the flash and fire the flash. The F/stop will now display on the screen.

 

[smoke665]

As stated above the "T" you see on the screen of the meter stands for "shutter priority" for the meter only, and is the only option available for that meter in flash mode (wireless or corded).

I usually leave my ISO at 100 and my shutter speed at 1/125, but I very rarely shoot with lights unless I'm on a tripod using a wireless shutter release. Sometimes off tripod I'll go to 1/160 if there's a lot of ambient light in the room.

 

[gossamer]

What mode are you in? This sounds like user error. I would suggest that you sit down and read the manual from the beginning with the meter in hand. That meter does not have anything to do with TTL metering. The T you are seeing indicates that you are in Shutter priority mode.

I don't doubt it's user error I also understand the T is shutter priority. I was referring to the "Auto Reset Cordless Flash" icon in the display (looks like a lightning bolt?).

I don't understand what you mean by "meter the lights individually"? Do you mean you have multiple monolights?

Multiple lights and reflectors, I meter each one individually with everything else turned off, to establish my contrast ration.

The problem I'm having is that I can't set the shutter speed beyond 1/100th when the mode is set for flash. I can adjust it lower than 1/100th, but not higher.

Sounds like a "Mode" issue. To meter flash the easiest is to use wirelesss. Push the "Mode" button until the screen displays what looks like a "lightning bolt with a break in the middle". The letter "T" for shutter priority should also be displayed now. Now set your shutter speed with the up/down toggles on the side. You will go up/down in either 1/2 or 1/3rd stops depending on your settings in memory. Set your ISO by pressing and holding the button below the screen and using the up/down toggle buttons on the side to increase or decrease. Once you have everything set the way you want. Press the top button on the side. The "lightning bolt with the break in the middle" will flash meaning its ready to read. Point it at the flash and fire the flash. The F/stop will now display on the screen.

I was in the middle of responding to the previous comment about "user error" when I received this notification. I don't doubt it's user error.

However, that is exactly what I'm doing. I understand the T is shutter priority and I'm referring to the section in the manual for "Auto Reset Cordless Flash" which looks like a lightning bolt.

Here's a little screenshot of the current device display

 

[smoke665]

That's the correct setting, but are you saying if you use the up/down toggle buttons on the side, it won't change shutter speed higher than 100? Is this a new or used unit?

 

[gossamer]

That's the correct setting, but are you saying if you use the up/down toggle buttons on the side, it won't change shutter speed higher than 100? Is this a new or used unit?

Okay, I'm confused. You interpreted what I wrote correctly - I couldn't get it to go past 1/100th.

However, if I use the down toggle button, and just keep pressing it, it goes down to "1" with a little S (seconds?). If I then try to go up, it goes from 2 to 500, then to 75, 80, 90, then the 100 I was referencing.

Previously when I saw it go down from 100 to 90, 80, 75, I don't think I ever went lower than that, because I would have no use for that and didn't expect it to not be in normal numerical ascending order.

I didn't expect it would go out of order like that. What am I missing?

 

[smoke665]

Okay, I think I understand now. It doesn't explain it on the wireless instructions but does on corded instructions- weird. On page 15 of your instruction book:

Shutter speed can be set from 1sec, 0.8sec through to 0.3 sec, 1/4 through to 1/500 sec and followed by 1/75, 1/80, 1/90 and 1/100.

1/500 is the maximum on either flash setting. And yes it starts at 1 sec up to .3 Sec, then as it go up it will cycle through settings from 1/4 - 1/500, and then start over at 1/75 to 1/100. Then start over back to 1 Sec.

 

[smoke665]

Between 1/4 and 1/500 it will increase in steps based on the custom settings of the meter. Either a full stop, 1/2 stop or a 1/3 stop. See page 20 of your manual

 

[gossamer]

Okay, I think I understand now. It doesn't explain it on the wireless instructions but does on corded instructions- weird. On page 15 of your instruction book:

Shutter speed can be set from 1sec, 0.8sec through to 0.3 sec, 1/4 through to 1/500 sec and followed by 1/75, 1/80, 1/90 and 1/100.

1/500 is the maximum on either flash setting. And yes it starts at 1 sec up to .3 Sec, then as it go up it will cycle through settings from 1/4 - 1/500, and then start over at 1/75 to 1/100. Then start over back to 1 Sec.

Okay, terrific, thanks. Of course I knew that 1/500th is the maximum - I would expect 1/250th would be the maximum I'd ever need (famous last words).

Thanks also for not telling me to pack up all my gear and return it to the place of purchase I probably know more than it appears with these questions, but working with light is definitely a weak area for me. I'm also now trying to cram for an opportunity I've been given on Saturday to shoot the profiles for a dozen or so women for a small project.

So now that I got the light meter to work, and perhaps I should start a new thread, but I have a few questions as it relates to my Flashpoint XPLOR 600. I can effectively communicate with the monolight using the wireless transmitter.

- Why does the light meter and my camera measure in terms of 1/125 or 1/60 when the Flashpoint and wireless transmitter operate in 1/128th or 1/64th?
- I set the Flashpoint to manual, 1/128 and the light meter and camera to 1/125, making it significantly under exposed. When I take a picture with the flash to determine the proper exposure with the light meter, it records 1.0, which is not possible/desirable.

What am I doing wrong? :-(