Waterfall C&C please

Discussion in 'Landscape & Cityscape' started by user3977, Sep 13, 2010.

  1. user3977

    user3977 TPF Supporters Supporting Member

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    well i have been practicing as suggested to smothe out the water in a picture. let me know if i have done any better.


    [​IMG]
     
  2. D-B-J

    D-B-J Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    sadly your highlights are too far blown for me to edit..
     
  3. PerfectlyFlawed

    PerfectlyFlawed TPF Noob!

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    Gorgeous waterfall, wish it weren't blown out. :(
     
  4. user3977

    user3977 TPF Supporters Supporting Member

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    this is the raw photo uploaded to flicker. its over exposed but that was the only way i could slow down the water at the time i was there. i tried to fix that in iphoto and well you see what i ended up with. im going to toy with it more.


    [​IMG]

    File Name IMG_8884.CR2
    Camera Model Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XTi
    Firmware Firmware 1.1.1
    Shooting Date/Time 09/12/10 11:32:21
    Owner's Name
    Shooting Mode Manual Exposure
    Tv( Shutter Speed ) 1
    Av( Aperture Value ) 29.0
    Metering Mode Evaluative Metering
    ISO Speed 100
    Lens EF35-80mm f/4-5.6
    Focal Length 80.0mm
    Image Size 3888x2592
    Image Quality RAW
    Flash Off
    White Balance Mode Auto
    AF Mode AI Focus AF
    Picture Style Standard
    Sharpness 3
    Contrast 0
    Saturation 0
    Color tone 0
    Color Space sRGB
    Noise Reduction On
    File Size 12226KB
    Dust Delete Data No
    Custom Function C.Fn:01-0
    C.Fn:02-2
    C.Fn:03-0
    C.Fn:04-0
    C.Fn:05-0
    C.Fn:06-0
    C.Fn:07-0
    C.Fn:08-0
    C.Fn:09-0
    C.Fn:10-0
    C.Fn:11-0
    Drive Mode Continuous shooting
    Camera Body No. 1220618542
    Comment


    here is two others straight from raw and sent to flicker.


    [​IMG]

    File Name IMG_8882.CR2
    Camera Model Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XTi
    Firmware Firmware 1.1.1
    Shooting Date/Time 09/12/10 11:31:39
    Owner's Name Matthew Cooper
    Shooting Mode Manual Exposure
    Tv( Shutter Speed ) 0.5
    Av( Aperture Value ) 29.0
    Metering Mode Evaluative Metering
    ISO Speed 100
    Lens EF35-80mm f/4-5.6
    Focal Length 80.0mm
    Image Size 3888x2592
    Image Quality RAW
    Flash Off
    White Balance Mode Auto
    AF Mode AI Focus AF
    Picture Style Standard
    Sharpness 3
    Contrast 0
    Saturation 0
    Color tone 0
    Color Space sRGB
    Noise Reduction Off
    File Size 8763KB
    Dust Delete Data No
    Custom Function C.Fn:01-0
    C.Fn:02-2
    C.Fn:03-0
    C.Fn:04-0
    C.Fn:05-0
    C.Fn:06-0
    C.Fn:07-0
    C.Fn:08-0
    C.Fn:09-0
    C.Fn:10-0
    C.Fn:11-0
    Drive Mode Continuous shooting
    Camera Body No. 1220618542
    Comment



    [​IMG]

    File Name IMG_8883.CR2
    Camera Model Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XTi
    Firmware Firmware 1.1.1
    Shooting Date/Time 09/12/10 11:32:00
    Owner's Name
    Shooting Mode Manual Exposure
    Tv( Shutter Speed ) 1
    Av( Aperture Value ) 29.0
    Metering Mode Evaluative Metering
    ISO Speed 100
    Lens EF35-80mm f/4-5.6
    Focal Length 80.0mm
    Image Size 3888x2592
    Image Quality RAW
    Flash Off
    White Balance Mode Auto
    AF Mode AI Focus AF
    Picture Style Standard
    Sharpness 3
    Contrast 0
    Saturation 0
    Color tone 0
    Color Space sRGB
    Noise Reduction On
    File Size 9251KB
    Dust Delete Data No
    Custom Function C.Fn:01-0
    C.Fn:02-2
    C.Fn:03-0
    C.Fn:04-0
    C.Fn:05-0
    C.Fn:06-0
    C.Fn:07-0
    C.Fn:08-0
    C.Fn:09-0
    C.Fn:10-0
    C.Fn:11-0
    Drive Mode Self-Timer Operation
    Camera Body No. 1220618542
    Comment


    i am wondering about editing software. apature 3 or cs5? and why one or the other?
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2010
  5. HikinMike

    HikinMike No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    They all look soft to me. If you want a critique, post the settings. ;)
     
  6. user3977

    user3977 TPF Supporters Supporting Member

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    how do i go about doing that?
     
  7. HikinMike

    HikinMike No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Do you know what ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed means? If so then include that in your post. If you're not sure then depending on your software it should tell you. Hope that makes sense. :confused:
     
  8. user3977

    user3977 TPF Supporters Supporting Member

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    yes i know what it all means i just did not know if there was an easy way to copy and paste it. but i found it. might be an overkill on info but all the help i can get is great. as for the softness of the pictures im really looking at it being the lens i use. the 35-80mm from my film camera. im trying to save up for a newer lens.
     
  9. michaelleggero

    michaelleggero TPF Noob!

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    you need to get a neutral density filter, that will allow you to slow down the water and not blow out the highlights. if you do a google search you can learn how to make a VARIABLE neutral density filter also. those are awesome!

    Mike

    http://www.michaelleggero.com
     
  10. HikinMike

    HikinMike No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    I don't know of any other way other than typing the ISO, aperture and shutter speed by hand.

    I'm sure the lens has a lot to do with the softness. You might re-visit the location when the conditions are better. It's a lot better to shoot waterfalls when it's overcast/total shade. ;)
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2010
  11. kalmkidd

    kalmkidd TPF Noob!

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    do you have a ND filter? even a cpl filter would help a bit in this situation as far as the water look. but you really need a ND filter man. your eye is decent and the photo could be good but the blow out is insanely bad.
     
  12. JG_Coleman

    JG_Coleman No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    The problem your having is basically that it seems you're trying to simply over-expose the shot in an effort to lengthen your shutter speed and get the "flowing" look on the water. This is not the correct way to go about getting that type of shot.

    Here are some ideas for lengthening your shutter speeds without over-exposing your photograph.

    1) Shoot on darker days (cloudy/overcast), or shoot at times of day when there's less intense, direct sunlight hitting the water (morning/evening).

    2) Reduce your aperture to its smallest size (f/22 or smaller)... this will allow a bare minimum of light to enter the camera. (It will also increase your depth-of-field.)

    3) Reduce your ISO to a lower setting. For example, my Nikon uses a native ISO of 200, but I can reduce my shutter speed by one stop by setting it to ISO 100 instead.

    Now, if using methods #2 and #3 still don't get a slow enough shutter speed, you'll need a neutral density filter... as many others have suggested. This will basically just hold back light even further, allowing you to get much slower shutter speeds, while still creating a proper exposure.

    As also mentioned before, a polarizer alone can sometimes be enough to slow your shutter speed to an acceptable length. It won't darken the scene as much as an ordinary ND filter, but will reduce the speed by a stop or so. The effectiveness of a polarizer in such a scenario depends largely upon conditions, though... on bright days, they won't do too much for you in terms of slowing the shutter speed. But if the scene is just a tad bit too bright to expose slow enough with your ISO and aperture dialed to their minimum... sometimes the polarizer will be enough to slow the shutter down.

    Ideally though, a good ND filter would things much easier for you.
     

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