What equipment should I be investing in?

rwilliams

TPF Noob!
Joined
Mar 6, 2014
Messages
104
Reaction score
16
Can others edit my Photos
Photos NOT OK to edit
I currently focus on children family, senior, engagement portraits and have taken on a few of small weddings. I have purchased some studio lights and equipment because I would like to do studio shoots, but currently don't have a location to. I probably purchased them a little prematurely, but figured they may come in handy for some weddings.. So far I haven't needed them much.

I know I need more lenses and probably other stuff I don't even realize.. so I'm just looking for some direction on what is most important to improve the quality of my photos. I've only purchased one lens and can tell a huge difference in that and the standard lens that my camera came with. But when I try to decide on other lenses to purchase, theres SO many to choose from and most cost a ton of money. I really am not ready to fork out a lot of money on something that I won't use much.

Here's what I currently own:
Canon Rebel T3i, the lens it came with, and also a a 50mm f/1.8
(2) Alien Bees B800 flash units & stands, (2) umbrellas, (2) softboxes
Portable backdrop stand, two backdrops

That's it. :/
 
Let me add that ultimately, I would love to be doing more weddings so I would like to push in that direction in getting the equipment & lenses that would be best for that.
 
What is the kit lens that came with the camera? 18-55mm? If you want to do posed portraiture I'd suggest looking at the Canon 85mm f/1.8. The longer focal length lenses give much more flattering compression to the face and also give better background separation. It's short enough to be used in most indoor environments and the wide aperture will facilitate focus and shutter speed in dim condition. If you want to do weddings, I would recommend you look at a 70-200mm f/2.8 preferably with image stabilization, purely for the versatility it offers coupled with image quality and low light capabilities. You rarely see a professional wedding photographer worth their salt, without a 70-200mm f/2.8 on their camera or in their bag on the day.

If you're working alone and shooting outside, for posed shots I would suggest a reflector support system. Either the Lastolite Uplite (warm tone version) or the Triflector come highly recommended. Both are great for use in the studio too, so they aren't one trick ponies. Of the two, I favour the Triflector as it enables me to angle the reflector in a variety of positions and also allows me to use gold/white/silver reflectors (I own both the gold and silver ones which have white on the reverse)

Another good option to have in your bag is an off camera flash system with radio triggers. This will serve you well in poor lighting conditions and to balance exposure outside too. Whether you go with a TTL or manual system is up to you. For weddings TTL is better because you are always on the fly and people are moving. For posed engagement and wedding shots, manual systems are fine.

As you can see, there are a lot of choices open to you. Unfortunately it means fairly substantial outlays on some items.
 
As with any gear question, budget is all-important. You need to be thinking in the $10,000+ range as a minimum.
 
What you do
How much you have

Those are the core two questions you have to ask yourself. You've already identified the first in that you want to move more into weddings; however the latter you've not really answered. There are budget options and high cost options for wedding photography and you can easily sink a few thousand into getting good quality high end gear that will do the job well.

In fact I'd wager that a good solid setup is going to cost you several thousand easily, even if you get second hand equipment.


Ideally what you want is:
1) A camera body that can do very good high ISO in low lighting - that really puts you into the fullframe market; so cameras like the 5DMII (second hand) 6D, 5DMIII and the 1D line. Realistically look at the 5D and 6D lines - even the original 5D was a solid wedding camera in its day (5D and 5DII have weaker AF systems than the other two though good enough to do weddings in most general environments).

2) Wide aperture lenses. This might be a zoom like the 24-70mm f2.8 and 70-200mm f2.8 or you could go with a selection of primes. Note that primes will give you more maximum apertures to work with; but on the flipside you will ideally want at least two bodies with lenses on them rather than always be swapping lenses over on a single body.

3) Lighting - speedlite flash units are ideal here as you can pop one on the camera and then angle it up and diffuse the light around the room (unless its a church or huge room then you'll have to use more direct diffusion methods); this is important because many times you won't have the time/option to setup your studio lights.
 
Yes, it came with the 18-55mm.

Thank you! I'm aware that good lenses aren't going to be cheap, I've just been lost on deciding on one or two that is worth the extra money and that I'll actually use regularly.

I hadn't even thought of a reflector system. I will check into those!

I've been wanting to buy an off camera flash for awhile because I've definitely struggled some with balancing the exposure outside. I have no clue what the difference is in TTL and manual, but I can research that :)

Thank you for all of the suggestions, definitely very helpful!

What is the kit lens that came with the camera? 18-55mm? If you want to do posed portraiture I'd suggest looking at the Canon 85mm f/1.8. The longer focal length lenses give much more flattering compression to the face and also give better background separation. It's short enough to be used in most indoor environments and the wide aperture will facilitate focus and shutter speed in dim condition. If you want to do weddings, I would recommend you look at a 70-200mm f/2.8 preferably with image stabilization, purely for the versatility it offers coupled with image quality and low light capabilities. You rarely see a professional wedding photographer worth their salt, without a 70-200mm f/2.8 on their camera or in their bag on the day.

If you're working alone and shooting outside, for posed shots I would suggest a reflector support system. Either the Lastolite Uplite (warm tone version) or the Triflector come highly recommended. Both are great for use in the studio too, so they aren't one trick ponies. Of the two, I favour the Triflector as it enables me to angle the reflector in a variety of positions and also allows me to use gold/white/silver reflectors (I own both the gold and silver ones which have white on the reverse)

Another good option to have in your bag is an off camera flash system with radio triggers. This will serve you well in poor lighting conditions and to balance exposure outside too. Whether you go with a TTL or manual system is up to you. For weddings TTL is better because you are always on the fly and people are moving. For posed engagement and wedding shots, manual systems are fine.

As you can see, there are a lot of choices open to you. Unfortunately it means fairly substantial outlays on some items.
 
I'd also add that I wouldn't consider shooting a paid wedding without a full frame sensored camera. The extra leeway in the ISO department can make a huge difference to image quality. I'd also want a professional focus system inside the camera too. Yes, some people shoot with a crop sensor. Often you will see a professional wedding photographer sporting an APS-C body as a backup or second shooter. If the venues you are shooting in are relatively well lit, then there is no problem but, it only takes one dimly lit marriage location to screw up your focus or ruin your images due to high ISO noise and you're more than likely to get yourself sued.

Edit - My guide to flash may help you understand the jargon and concepts regarding TTL and manual flash. I also have a review of the Triflector and Uplite on the site too.
 
Based on what I've read on these boards, I'm super unequipped to shoot weddings. I really don't disagree with that. However, does it help my case that most photographers in my area are shooting with equal or less equipment than me and charging much more? I know that my photos aren't comparable to some of the better photographers in other areas of the state, but I do feel confident that even with the limited equipment I have, that my photos are better quality than other local photographers.

That being said, I obviously don't want to rest on that. I want to continue to get better and push to provide the best quality photos that I can. I'm just saying all that to explain why I don't feel quite as guilty taking on weddings right now.

I'd also add that I wouldn't consider shooting a paid wedding without a full frame sensored camera. The extra leeway in the ISO department can make a huge difference to image quality. I'd also want a professional focus system inside the camera too. Yes, some people shoot with a crop sensor. Often you will see a professional wedding photographer sporting an APS-C body as a backup or second shooter. If the venues you are shooting in are relatively well lit, then there is no problem but, it only takes one dimly lit marriage location to screw up your focus or ruin your images due to high ISO noise and you're more than likely to get yourself sued.

Edit - My guide to flash may help you understand the jargon and concepts regarding TTL and manual flash. I also have a review of the Triflector and Uplite on the site too.
 
Based on what I've read on these boards, I'm super unequipped to shoot weddings. I really don't disagree with that. However, does it help my case that most photographers in my area are shooting with equal or less equipment than me and charging much more? I know that my photos aren't comparable to some of the better photographers in other areas of the state, but I do feel confident that even with the limited equipment I have, that my photos are better quality than other local photographers.

That being said, I obviously don't want to rest on that. I want to continue to get better and push to provide the best quality photos that I can. I'm just saying all that to explain why I don't feel quite as guilty taking on weddings right now.

I'd also add that I wouldn't consider shooting a paid wedding without a full frame sensored camera. The extra leeway in the ISO department can make a huge difference to image quality. I'd also want a professional focus system inside the camera too. Yes, some people shoot with a crop sensor. Often you will see a professional wedding photographer sporting an APS-C body as a backup or second shooter. If the venues you are shooting in are relatively well lit, then there is no problem but, it only takes one dimly lit marriage location to screw up your focus or ruin your images due to high ISO noise and you're more than likely to get yourself sued.

Edit - My guide to flash may help you understand the jargon and concepts regarding TTL and manual flash. I also have a review of the Triflector and Uplite on the site too.


well...
no.
it doesn't particularly help your case any...
would you be ok with me being an under-equiped and under-experienced Paramedic working on you or a family member if I told you "eh, there's worse out there than me, so its ok" (i mean, im awesome at my job, i was just throwing that out there)

are you set up as a business to pay taxes on any income you get? Insurance?
are you equipped to handle a camera/lens/flash dying on you in the middle of a wedding? (it happens plenty)
are you equipped/experienced to handle changing lighting conditions?

I certainly would not base my business model on simply "not being the worst"
 
Haha, well, photographing a wedding and saving someone's life is slightly different, but I do get your point.

I definitely don't lead any of my clients to believe I'm better than I am. They see my work ahead of time and so far, they've all been happy.

To answer your questions, I do have a second camera and lens that I rent for weddings as a back up.
As for lighting, for the few weddings I've done, I haven't had any issues with lighting.

Again, I'm not resting on my business "not being the worst"
I want to have the right equipment and be better prepared, which is the purpose of my post.
 
I have LLC. My attorney said that would be sufficient for now, so I haven't looked into anything else. Is that incorrect?

... I don't feel quite as guilty taking on weddings right now.
Do you at least have insurance, especially E&O?
If your attorney told you that you do not need insurance, GET A NEW ATTORNEY! I'm not especially familiar with the differences between US and Canadian incorporation law, but they are more-or-less similar and while forming an LLC may protect your personal assets, it's not an iron-clad guarentee either.

What would be the ramifications to you personally, your business and your family & possessions if your studio light started a fire at a wedding venue which resulted in injury/death to guests, damage to the venue, and loss of all images?
 
Haha, well, photographing a wedding and saving someone's life is slightly different, but I do get your point.

I definitely don't lead any of my clients to believe I'm better than I am. They see my work ahead of time and so far, they've all been happy.

To answer your questions, I do have a second camera and lens that I rent for weddings as a back up.
As for lighting, for the few weddings I've done, I haven't had any issues with lighting.

Again, I'm not resting on my business "not being the worst"
I want to have the right equipment and be better prepared, which is the purpose of my post.


I can tell you what WE bring to every wedding.
2 camera bodies.
6 flashes
12 batteries
10 lenses. (all f/2.8 zooms and primes)
12 16gig 45mb/s sandisk pro memory cards.
light stands and brollys/softbox umbrellas
8 radio triggers
misc other junk like chargers, cleaning stuff, multi-tool, etc etc.
 
...I want to have the right equipment and be better prepared, which is the purpose of my post.
To which we will return:
-2 bodies of at least "semi-pro" quality (ideally full-frame). Canon 5D Mk X, or Nikon X00 at a minimum;
-f2.8 or faster glass from UWA (~15mm) to 200mm;
-2 speedlights capable of full TTL and manual operation;
-Lots of spare batteries, memory cards, etc;
-A basic 2-3 light monolight/pack & head system for formals; and
-A ton of odds & ends ranging from a glasses repair kit to gaf tape to clamps, a first-aid kit and about 100 other bits and pieces.
 

Most reactions

New Topics

Back
Top