What is the Best Value going Wireless

[Josh66]

Can't really think of any 'tests' other than checking the range and making sure it fires every time.

It's radio, so walls shouldn't be a problem. The only thing I can really think of that would stop it is a Faraday cage (a metal mesh, basically).

(Bet it won't work inside your microwave (faraday cage) - not while it's on, of course.)

 

[leroyneal]

Hey O|||||||O,

I LOVE these !!
Question for ya though, I have mine hooked up to my 40D with the PC sync cord to the transmitter and the receiver to my White Lightning and they work really well.
What does the PC connect do exactly? (the cord going from Transmitter to camera)

For 90% of us, these are perfect, if one needs HSS and TTL then its another game in and of itself........

 

[Josh66]

For my flash/camera, I don't have to use the sync cord. Are you sure you really need it?
Pretty sure you only need it if you're not mounting the transmitter directly to the hot-shoe... (?)

TTL works fine for me. I haven't tried HSS, but I guess I should since you mention it.

 

[leroyneal]

Well on my T1i I do not have a sync port so I just used it and manually adjusted the settings to get the perfect shot, On my 40D with the cord I shot at 1/30th of a sec and 1/40 all the way to 200 and it seemed to adjust as they all looked really the same.
with out the cord how could the camera info and lighting be sent?


I am only able to shoot no higher then 1/250th or I get the dreaded shadow.

 

[Josh66]

Well on my T1i I do not have a sync port so I just used it and manually adjusted the settings to get the perfect shot, On my 40D with the cord I shot at 1/30th of a sec and 1/40 all the way to 200 and it seemed to adjust as they all looked really the same.
with out the cord how could the camera info n lighting be sent?


I am only able to shoot no higher then 1/250th or I get the dreaded shadow.

I am not familiar with the light you are using, so many things may be different.

I am using a 580EX II, and I just mount the transmitter to the hot-shoe, and the receiver to the flash.

E-TTL works fine for me. 1/250th is probably the max sync speed of the T1i (1/200th for me). If your lights are not capable of high speed sync, that is the fastest you will be able to shoot.

Next time I do some sooting, I will see if it works with HSS.

 

[leroyneal]

How would one go about testing the HSS?


Thanks this is GREAT Fun

ya on my first order I got the Studio version Units, as I have a ST-E2 with my 580EX and 430EX

 

[Josh66]

I guess it depends on your light. If it has a high speed sync option, just turn it on (however you do that) and see if it works. On the 580EX, it's the button that looks like a lightning bolt with an H after it. I don't know what it would be on the White Lightning lights, or if they even have that option...

 

[leroyneal]

Seeings as this all pretty much could have been done via personal chat between you and I , I will toss this question out do you have any ideas what is the least expensive (Non-Canon flash) that would be compatible with a 580-EX as a Master or a ST-E2 unit?

I am thinking of adding another portable flash unit and if I can avoid paying Canon prices I most certainly would love to.
I noticed Cowboy Studio had this unit for very Cheap.
CowboyStudio Photography Lighting | Studio Equipment | Studio Accessories

How would one go about finding out if it is compatible with my ST-E2?

Anyone can feel free to chime in here

thx again

 

[Josh66]

I don't know that there is anything non-Canon that is compatible with the Canon system out of the box (not to say there isn't) - but for $20-30 you could get something like this:
Smith-Victor | PG750 Slave Trigger | 690040 | B&H Photo Video
(For some reason, that link opens 2 (identical) tabs... Not sure why, and I can't seem to fix it.)
And make any flash function as an optical slave.

Some flashes have this built in.

...It looks like the ST-E2 is only compatible with Canon flashes.

There are also a few slave units you could get, but they are not adjustable.
Fires full power (not as powerful as a regular flash though) every time.

The only way you could control it would be to move it closer or farther away.

 

[leroyneal]

So how would I mount or locate that unit on a flash?
It looks like once hooked up it would make it a slave, makes sense about no power controls but the unit I am looking at adding will be a behind the subject unit for back lighting any ways......

Who knows maybe there is one other person who is on this forum and may know more then yourself or me.......

NAAA just kidding

Oh I see now it has a female PC sync port
Very nice, thx bud

Still would like to know of any cheap alternatives

 

[Josh66]

That flash doesn't say much in the way of specs... No guide number is listed... How much power does it have...?

For $35, I guess you can't expect a whole lot, but it would be nice if they at least gave you some idea of how powerful it is...

 

[Josh66]

Yeah, just plug it in via the PC sync port. Even behind the subject it *should* still see the light and fire. As long as enough light hits the sensor.

 

[leroyneal]

HA HA I am LOVING this company, they are cheap enough to gamble on !!

Ya lack of details...it does not even appear to me to have a hot shoe

am I mistaken?
or is that a stand its resting on?

 

[Josh66]

Looks like that's just the stand (look at the other view). At least they include a stand, lol. It looks like the stand even has 3 different slots to mount the flash into.

(Not really sure of the point of that, it's not like you can't just position it where ever you want once it's in there...)

 

[Josh66]

Oh, nevermind - the stand is not included, lol. See the 'Included' tab.


EDIT

BTW - I have been using my Cowboy Studio radio trigger all day, and it's still working fine!