What lens for indoor action?

cruse2of4 · Feb 5, 2017

I need to know what zoom lens would be best to use with my Nikon D7200 to shoot wrestling or basketball events so the subjects are super sharp. The lens I am using now has the following imprinted on it: AF-S Nikkor 55-300 mm 1:4.5-5.6 G ED. I tried shooting my nephew at a wrestling meet yesterday and was very disappointed in how the photos turned out. Even with high ISO (4000) and shutter speed of 1/320, they turned out somewhat dark and very grainy. There was no sharpness to it at all. I was unable to use an aperture lower than f/5. I'm new to this and am just learning how to adjust all the settings. Maybe I can use the lens I have with different camera settings? Help!

Designer · Feb 5, 2017

Gymnasiums are notorious for really BAD lighting for photography. And you will probably not be allowed to use flash, so you're kind of stuck with what you have. If you can afford a more expensive lens, you can gain a couple of stops of light by using a "faster" lens, but they're not cheap.

NIKKOR Sports and Action Lenses

Additionally, use a tripod (if allowed) or a monopod to steady the camera. If you get good at holding steady, (use the strap as a sling, too) you can get to where you're able to use a little longer shutter opening. Learn the technique of "triangulating" your camera with the sling and your arms to make a very steady hold.

Watch for a shot when the wrestlers are not moving very fast to get your shot.

(edit) also use the correct AF mode.

nerwin · Feb 6, 2017

You'll probably want a 70-200 2.8, it's not cheap though.

But you CAN find a Nikon 80-200 2.8D for around $500 (sometimes less). It won't have vibration reduction but since you are using it for indoor sport action, it would be useless anyways. Having the ability to open up to 2.8 versus 5.6 is a BIG advantage.

At the end of the day, I'd rather have noisy image that is sharp, in focus and not blurry than a cleaner image that is blurry.

astroNikon · Feb 6, 2017

^^ what they said above.

on another note, since wrestling has a limited box they wrestle in you'll want to check the images that you shot and find what approx focal length you are shooting in.

I mention this as you may be able to get away with getting a 85/1.8. The 85/1.8 is inexpensive comparatively to a 70-200 or 80-200/2.8.

Make sure your AF is on AF-C Single (probably the best)
and Metering mode probably Spot or Spot 8 (the slightly larger one) to avoid any bright single lighting that may be around the area affecting the metering (though all gyms may vary).
And your shutter speed may need to be higher to capture every movement instead of just the slower stuff.

But it's all give and take dependent upon the technology that you are using due to the lower light setting and obtaining an acceptable image based on Shutter, Aperture and ISO.

FYI, a tripod isn't going to help much because the subjects are moving and up close.

jcdeboever · Feb 6, 2017

I use a 85mm 1.8 but sharpness is limited in poor light, at least for me it is. It's a struggle to say the least. I am darn near to the point of giving up in all honesty. look at post 98 as an example
Post some of your Sport photos.

KmH · Feb 6, 2017

Many are surprised at how much photographer knowledge and skill factors into being able to consistently produce sharp photos.
Most of the time the better one understands the technical aspects of doing digital photography the better and more consistent the quality of the photographs they produce.

You noted having photos that "turned out somewhat dark and very grainy" and you want "super sharp" photos.
The D7200 has a light meter, but there are 3 much different metering modes that you can use.
You don't say which metering mode you were using.
Note too that the D7200 has an Exposure Compensation (EC) adjustment too.
Camera Exposure: Aperture, ISO & Shutter Speed
Understanding Camera Metering and Exposure
You also don't say what auto focus mode and auto focus area mode you were using.
You may not be aware that the D7200 has 2 shutter priority modes too - focus priority and shutter priority.
The auto focus system needs light and contrast to work at it's peak.
In low light or low contrast AF often struggles.

It may be worth your while to review pages 83 to 91 of the D7200 User Manual and also review page 96 where it shows situations AF will have difficulty with.

Lastly, film cameras using 'fast' negative film have grain.
Digital cameras have image noise.
Digital Camera Image Noise: Concept and Types

Derrel · Feb 7, 2017

The lens itself has a "slow" maximum aperture, of only f/3.5 at the short end, and only f/5.6 at the long end, and as you gounf out it id f/5 or f/5.3 or thereabouts at the mid-ranges...even with ISO of 4,000 and a shutter speed of 1/320 second, that is juuuust on the borderline for basketball action.

I'd consider the 50mm f/1.8 AF-S G prime lens, or the 85mm f/1.8 AF-S G prime lens as being two possiblities. Wrestling will shoot better at more-telephoto settings than much basketball, due to the smaller area of action (I used to wrestle). One could also use a 35mm f/1.8 DX-Nikkor AF-S G series lens on a D3xxx Nikon, and have autofocusing.

A zoom lens is not necessarily needed: one can shoot a bit loose, and crop-in at the computer. To get the higher shutter speeds of 1/500 to 1/800 to stop most fast motion at closer distances, you need higher ISO, like 6,400, or a wider f/stop, like f/2.8 to f/2.2 or so, to get more light in, and to give yourself a little extra focus cushion; I do NOT recommend shooting at f/1.8 for people who are not 110% proficient at it; the difference between f/1.8 and f/2.8 is often a better end result at f/2.8 than at f/1.8.

As KmH wisely wrote, "Many are surprised at how much photographer knowledge and skill factors into being able to consistently produce sharp photos."

You can Google the phrase "peak action" or "peak of action", which is for example, the very TOP of a jump shot, right at the release: THAT can be stopped at 1/125 second. But it takes timing to see it and shoot it.