What lens to get for Architecture?

fenix1280 · Oct 28, 2008

I am new to photography, and I bought canon eos 50d for a real estate photography company I am starting. I have a few questions.

1. Is there a reputable store online that you can find equipment for a better deal?
2. What wide angle lens should I get with this camera to get really good un distorted interior shots?
I was thinking the ef 14mm/2.8L
The lady I talk to at glazers said this lens would act more like a 16 on this camera.

I have no Idea what this means.

goodoneian · Oct 28, 2008

b&hphotovideo.com and adorama.com are two sites i would reccomend

i'm not really sure what lens would be best, but i know that canons have a 1.6 crop factor on their sensors, so 14mm would be more like 22mm, not 16. crop factor refers to the size of the digital sensor compared to a full frame (35mm) film sensor.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_factor

that should help you understand it more

djacobox372 · Oct 28, 2008

sigma 10-20mm

fenix1280 · Oct 28, 2008

what is this sigma lens? What advantage does it have. I guess what Im asking is why would I get this over the ef 14mm 2.8L.(sorry for being so naive) Thank you for the quick response

goodoneian · Oct 28, 2008

this is the lens he is suffering to

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/381610-REG/Sigma_201101_10_20mm_f_4_5_6_EX_DC.html

benefits i would say is that it's a fraction of the price of the 14mm, and will be significantly wider on your camera than the 14mm. and overall from what i've gathered, it's a great lens

manaheim · Oct 28, 2008

I do a lot of building photography and would strongly recommend the Sigma 10-20mm. If you have a crop sensor (which I assume you do, but I didn't look your camera up), then the 14mm will occasionally not be wide enough.

HOWEVER... architectural photography is also about details, so it would be really good to have a fast high-quality zoom lens as well. If you can swing it a F2.8 70-200ish lens would also be an EXCELLENT thing to have on hand.

skieur · Oct 28, 2008

The best lens to use is a tilt/shift lens but they are not inexpensive. Next to that a wide angle prime tends to have far less distortion than a wide angle zoom, particularly about 28mm. After that dxO has customized software that will correct the distortion from individual wide angle lenses and cameras, and it does a very good job.

skieur

manaheim · Oct 28, 2008

skieur said:
The best lens to use is a tilt/shift lens but they are not inexpensive. Next to that a wide angle prime tends to have far less distortion than a wide angle zoom, particularly about 28mm. After that dxO has customized software that will correct the distortion from individual wide angle lenses and cameras, and it does a very good job.

You can do the tilt/shift thing using photoshop now, so you don't really need to buy a specialized lens. I -think- someone said there was a case where the tilt/shift was better, but I can't recall what it was.

skieur · Oct 30, 2008

manaheim said:
You can do the tilt/shift thing using photoshop now, so you don't really need to buy a specialized lens. I -think- someone said there was a case where the tilt/shift was better, but I can't recall what it was.

Most of the tilt/shif done in editors such as Photoshop results in too much cropping which is bad if you frame fairly tightly. I think DXO is probably the best software solution to architectural distortion.

skieur

Timbo1961 · Oct 30, 2008

The Photoshop corrections basically produce images that need to be cropped to appear normal... the corrections make the image a different shape. As well, IIRC, they interpolate pixels so you will loose some pixels in the process.
The tilt/shift lens really is the best way to go albeit an expensive one. If you are getting into this type of photography, it is a wise investment IMHO.
It will not only allow you to correct for distortion due to the perspective of wide angle lenses, but it will also allow you to control depth of focus. You can create a DOF that is not parallel to the sensor plane, but extends from foreground to background either vertically or horizontally.
This can be useful in tight spaces and in cases where you are photographing a wall or side of a building which is at an angle to you... you can make the depth of focus at an angle to you (parallel to this wall for example) instead of extending across in front of you.
See below ... they can explain it a lot better than I can !!
I have a Nikkor PC-E 24mm F2.8 and love it. I use it for a lot of architecture.
Canon has a similar lens also.
See here ....
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/tilt-shift-lenses1.htm

and here ....

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/tilt-shift-lenses2.htm

benhasajeep · Oct 30, 2008

Timbo1961 said:
I have a Nikkor PC-E 24mm F2.8 and love it. I use it for a lot of architecture.
Canon has a similar lens also.
See here ....

I have been looking really hard at that lens now for about a week. It was my #2 item to get next on my list. But all of a sudden it seems the price of Nikon Coolscan 9000 has gone up several hundred dollars. The lens is now next on my list.

Do you use it on a crop digital or full frame? The 2 shops near me of course don't stock it so I have not had a chance to look through it. Very interested in the lens.

Timbo1961 · Oct 30, 2008

I have it on a D700 and it is full frame... the tilt/shift lenses usually have a larger than average imaging circle anyways so there is no vignetting. But it is not a DX lens anyways. The 24mm is full 24mm.... no crop.

benhasajeep · Oct 30, 2008

Timbo1961 said:
I have it on a D700 and it is full frame... the tilt/shift lenses usually have a larger than average imaging circle anyways so there is no vignetting. But it is not a DX lens anyways. The 24mm is full 24mm.... no crop.

I was wondering on the coverage with it on a crop sensor and if you were happy with it. I just ordered a D300 (should be at my house now). But since you have full frame you can't really answer that. :mrgreen: Of course I could always use it on my film cameras. Just wont have that instant gratification that digital gives you now a days.

But I am definately sold on its uses.

Thanks.

Timbo1961 · Oct 30, 2008

If it is on a D300, the only thing that might be an issue is that the 24 will be like a 36mm.
Also, with the built-in flash you may not have the full range of movement in the up / down range of movement. On my D700 it comes really close but doesn't hit.
Since with the 24mm you will see a effect in the tilt / shift almost immediately, with the smaller sensor, you will perhaps need to move it through a larger range before the same effect occurs. You also may hit the flash overhang ... the lens comes with a warning label actually wrapped around the lens when you open the box that says with some models, you may pinch your fingers between the lens and the camera body! No kidding...
You might want to try and find a shop that has a lens to try or would be willing to get one in for you to try first.