What settings should I use with a lightbox?

Better.

Meter the green part.

i.e. with spot meter, point the center spot to the green color of the circuit board. And then lock the exposure.

Now, what you can do without meter the green is just dial the exposure compension to +1/2 stop or +1 stop and then retake it.
 
I'm afraid that you are limited by your lens. It is a good lens for general photography, but falls short for these types of shots. A macro lens is needed IMO.

This was taken with a Nikkor 105mm and the part is ~4mm in diameter. Clicky

Focus stacking is also another technique for these types of shots. This had +30 exposures that were merged together in post. The item was ~100mm on the long edge. Clicky
 
I'm afraid that you are limited by your lens. It is a good lens for general photography, but falls short for these types of shots. A macro lens is needed IMO.

This was taken with a Nikkor 105mm and the part is ~4mm in diameter. Clicky

Focus stacking is also another technique for these types of shots. This had +30 exposures that were merged together in post. The item was ~100mm on the long edge. Clicky

So a new lens is the only way I'm going to be able to get shots like the professional shot in my first post?

How much would I have to pay to get a lens that would work for these types of photos?

Thanks for your help, everyone :)
 
For macro lens, you can get by with a less expensive one. If you are primary shooting object of small circuit board, you can choose a shorter focal length one.

3rd party macro lenses (made by Tamron, Sigma or Tokina) are good if not better then those from Canon or Nikon.


Before you go buy a new lens, work on how to light the subject and how to obtain a correct exposure first.
 
Would a Reynox 250 help here? I don't know (just throwing in ideas).
 
How much would I have to pay to get a lens that would work for these types of photos?

SLR Lenses
You linked to the imported lens, which I'm not an advocate of in the least.

You also edited out a good question. Why would I choose a macro lens from all that I have available? For small detailed parts, particularly electrical pieces, sharpness is paramount. The OPs lens has a minimum focusing distance of 11", which is not close enough IMO to capture all the necessary details. Having the capability to get to a 1:1 ratio will be a boon for this type of product work.

If the OP is doing this as an enthusiast, there are alternatives to the 105mm. I only referenced it because it is what I have. There is a new Nikkor 85mm for DX for under $500. Sigma, Tamaron and others make macro lenses which are less expensive. There are also extension tubes to be considered. I have no experience with them, but apparently they work great. Hopefully someone will chime in about them. There is also a screw-on lens adapter, but again no experience with them.

However, Dao is correct. Understand your lighting first. Work with what you have until you can go no further and are still dissatisfied. That will be a good indicator of when to upgrade.
 
This was taken using Nikon's 35-70mm f2.8D lens. They don't make them anymore but you can get them used for about $300. It has a quick and dirty macro mode at 35mm (FOV of 52mm on the D3000). Unfortunately, it won't auto focus on your camera but then you don't auto focus in macro anyway.

6664158887_58d1319bf4_b.jpg
 
Well, it sounds like I definitely need to get a new lens sometime in the near future. I really can't afford to spend more than $300 right now, which I guess means I will be getting a used lens, since the new ones are so freaking expensive. I don't know anything about buying lens'; is purchasing a used lens OK?
 
Looks like extension tubes will save you $$$$ for macro shoots. I am not in macro world yet. Just wondering if extension tube is able to give same/similar IQ as macro lens does.

extension tubes
 
Hey this is a crazy old thread but I was recently in a similar situation and realized a very simple (often overlooked solution).

Some people might think its dumb to even ask, but did you happen to have VR switched on when taking the picture? VR destroys pictures taken at longer exposures on a tripod. Im under the impression it should never be used on a tripod unless the base is vibrating (like if you were shooting on a tripod from a helicopter, or the stage of a crazy concert).

Anyway I'm sure everyone has since figured this out or doesn't care anymore but I though I would post in case some one stumbles upon this in the future. Also, it would save someone else from thinking they need to drop $$ on a lens when all they need to do is flip a switch to get better images.
 
Some of the newer Nikon lenses have a VR tripod mode that can be used so VR can correct for the small camera movement caused by the main mirror and shutter moving when the shutter is released.

Consequently be sure and check the users manual for the lens you have as far use of VR and a tripod.
 

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