What would you do differently with these plant closeups?

Discussion in 'Nature & Wildlife' started by Ganoderma, Jun 2, 2009.

  1. Ganoderma

    Ganoderma TPF Noob!

    Jun 22, 2006
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    Looking for criticism on these plant closeups. be harsh if need be, i really want to try and step up my photo skills before i leave to Palau and Malaysia next month!

    Most of my photos are for specific plant detail shots, mostly for science related things. but i need to get a better "pretty" look to things.

    EDITED to follow the rules better :)

    also. my cam takes pics at 2592x3888 pixels and 72 dpi. is there anyway to increase the dpi? or any other size/quality type setting? large pictures are preferred. I use a canon EOS Kiss (EOS Digital Rebel XT/EOS 350D)

    overcast day before sun down. little windy, free hand.

    1/30 sec.

    Slightly windy spot in broad daylight. if memory serves a little cloudy but not much. free hand.

    1/250 sec


    this was taken just before sun down. mildly windy, free hand because the butterfly kept moving.

    1/250 sec.
    ISO 400

    thanks for any tips!
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2009
  2. Overread

    Overread has a hat around here somewhere Staff Member Supporting Member

    May 1, 2008
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    UK - England
    Can others edit my Photos:
    Photos OK to edit
    hmm its tricky to say specifics since I need an idea of what you used to take these shots with (Camera, lens, tripod, flash etc..) and also an idea of what settings your using for each shot.
    have a follow here for some post advice :) : http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...e-your-posts-get-critiques-your-work-c-c.html

    However so general points based on what I see.

    1) Generally I operate between f8 and f13 for this sort of work and I consider f16 the lower limit (remember big number small aperture) since after that point diffraction can start to take effect and that will lead to an overall softening of your images which for this sort of work is something that you don't want to have.

    2) Flowers don't run away, so use a tripod. This lets you avoid camera shake and also lets you shoot at slow speeds and still get a sharp shot.

    3) Avoid wind if you can - again movement is not desirable at either subject or camera end - sticks, binties, string and other such gear can help you to stablize a flower and to hold back distracting elements from the shot.

    4) If things are moving more then use your flash with a diffuser to give more light and thus shoot faster - if you have no diffuser then some folded up white toilet paper held over the flash can workwell.

    5) Working in bright lighting where hightlights are a problem expose for the highlights themselves - that is point the camera at the brightest areas - not the exposures then shoot with that in manual mode. You can then use the flash to upp the lighting and boost it for the rest of the shot (called fillflash). That would allow you to get the hightlights and the flower right.

    6) check your camera manual and if it supports it use mirror lockup (DSLR/SLR feature) which will then give you less camera shake again for a static subject and a camera on a tripod - its not use on moving subjects or if the camera is moving. Also a remote release or the timer on the camera are good to use as well.

    That should help - give it a try and give some more info on how your working and we can go from there.
  3. Ganoderma

    Ganoderma TPF Noob!

    Jun 22, 2006
    Likes Received:
    thanks for posting that. and the link helped a lot, i will do so in further posts! i am editing my above post to be a little more useful.

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