What would you have done? Help please.

[Niz]

So i went out last night to take photos of a mates band. I have a Nikon D90 and a Tokina 11-16mm 2.8 and when i arrived and saw where they were playing i realised that the only lighting they had was 3 small stage lights which didn't provide hardly any light at all. I couldn't use flash and even at 1/60s and F2.8 @2000-3000 i couldn't get a photo that was exposed properly, they were all still really dark.

So my question is, what would you have done in this situation? i left feeling really down and angry at myself for not being able to find a suitable solution. I'd like some feedback because when im faced with a situation like this id like to at least have a plan on how to tackle it!

Cheers Ben.

 

[kundalini]

So my question is, what would you have done in this situation?

 

[Overread]

Well you have a few options to consider (aisde from listening to the Blues Brothers)

1) Wider aperture - f2.8 is pretty wide already and going any wider does bring in the problem of having a razor thin depth of field; however a wider prime might well have suited you. An f1.4 or f1.8 would have given you more light to play with.

2) Higher ISO - noise you can deal with in editing and correctly exposed shots at a higher ISO will show less noise than lower ISOs underexposed (and then brightened up in editing). Though at ISO 3200 you were already pretty high - higher spec body able to push to 6400 or higher still on some of the fullframe options would be your only choice.

3) Additional lighting - this requires more preparation before the event, though for smaller time events is actually more possible than at larger venus. This works by allowing you to mount flash units onto their existing lighting setup (or using your own provided it can be positioned out of the way where it won't get bumped/damaged) and then combine that with a radio wireless triggor system to fire the flashes during the show.
If they are worried about flash consider that most professional shooters get the first 3 songs of a band and that is it - the rest they are not allowed to shoot (removing their lighting but also taking account for the fact that by songs 4+ a band/singer is pretty worn out and not looking their best that they are in earlier songs). So your disturbance won't be that long into their work - plus most point and shoots being used will have flash anyway.


Consider that if you want to do these events low lighting is going to be a factor so you've got to consider what options you have to counter that; remember if you can't afford all the items you can consider renting.

 

[Niz]

1) The widest the lense will go is 2.8 i couldn't have done anything about that aspect, i might have to invest in a 50mm 1.4

2) What is a good simple program for removing noise? i know you can do it in PS but im just wondering if there is any other good programs

3) By this do you mean pocket wizards?

 

[Overread]

There are various noise removal programs on the market and, far as I know there isn't one that constantly out does the others. They are each good in their own right and each offers slightly different controls and variables. Suffice to say that for most photographers learning to use one tool really well will meet their needs. If you've the full CS version of photoshop I would look up guides on using it for noise removal. If you've got elements or similar lower spec options then you could consider options;

Neat Image
Topaz De-noise

as well as others.



As for wireless the Pocketwizards would be the top rate choice; if you can afford them great go for them, if you can't there are a variety of other options on the market that are a lot cheaper (often offering cheaper, yet usable build quality as well as reduced features but still good enough for most people)

 

[kundalini]

Far cheaper than PWs, the PCB Cybersyncs are a very reliable RF trigger. I've never had a failure other than low battery issues, but you can't call that on the triggers. They are fairly efficient with battery life. The CSRB receiver will work on hotshoe speedlights, but the CSRB+ will be needed if you want to go studio strobes, plus they also work on speedlights.

 

[BlairWright]

Honestly, the D90 is not made for extreme low light and it will be a challenge. You can pop the ISO up to 5000 or 6400 but you will find that the image quality is not going to be very good.. I shoot shows in very low light with my D3S and even that sensor can struggle at 2.8 and ISO 6400. So you can save a couple stops by purchasing a 1.4 lens or get a body that can handle 3200 ISO or better, if this is something you want to make a career out of eventually you will need to do both.

 

[BlairWright]

Also, most shows that I have shot will not allow flash... Lastly, If you ever shoot a big show lighting is not a problem, timing is

 

[KmH]

The main problem seems to be that you don't yet understand the limitations your camera body and lens saddle you with.

A 50 mm f/1.4 lens on a Nikon D90, wide open at f/1.4, 20 feet from the point of focus will give a total DoF 2.75 feet deep. of that 2.75 feet 47% of the total DoF will be in front of the point of focus, and 53% will be behind the point of focus.

Zoom lenses don't open to apertures that large. f/2.8 is about the widst aperture for a zoom lens.

So, if you can't add light to the scene by using strobed light you have to increase the ISO. Noise reduction will rob detail from your photos, and fast prime lenses used wide open usually deliver noticably less than tack sharp focus.

Using a high ISO setting means having to absolutely nail the expsoure because pushing it post process accentuates any image noise.

In short it all boils down to the photographer knowing what gear can do the job, and having the skills to use that gear within it's capabilities.

 

[gsgary]

I would have put my camera in my bag got pissed and enjoyed the music