Which needs to be replaced? The Lens or the Camera?

Vidit Kothari

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Am Vidit, from India. Just recently I was requested by a relative to click some jewellery for valuation and this got me interested and want to know more about it.
I'm not satisfied by my capture. I need your help improve my skills.

Camera: Nikon D5100
Lens: AF-S DX Micro-NIKKOR 40mm f/2.8G - Nikon
Lighting conditions: Rectangular SoftBox Cube with cool light from left, right and rear/behind

I need to know that is it the Lens(cheapest in Nikon Micro Lens range) the reason why the 1st image is grainy/sort of blurred and not as sharp as the 2nd image

The 1st image below was shot from Nikon D5100 and Micro Lens (as mentioned/specified earlier)
MJRG001.jpg
The 2nd image below was shot from Canon EOS 6D
MJRG033.jpg

To achieve the result in the 2nd image, do I need to change the camera or the lens (or both)?

and Secondly I want to learn about the techniques of capturing diamond jewellery. I had no experience in the beginning (3 months ago) when I had to click 10 or so images and each capture took me ~an hour (including little Photoshop-ing)
 
Both photos look soft.

I'm unsure if this is an error in your process or an error in the editing or a mix of both, so could you provide the settings you used for both shots - aperture, shutter speed and ISO. Along with that details of how you took the shot (eg are you on a tripod) and if you can a shot of your lighting setup to show how you've got the lighting positioned (Although it seems that you've got the lighting decently under control).

The lens and camera you have should be more than capable of providing a very sharp shot, although I would say at a practical level that a 40mm macro lens doesn't give much room to work in; I would suggest a longer lens, say 90mm or a bit longer might be more useful. It also appears that you're taking shots fairly far back (likely so you don't get the camera shadowing the lighting) which means the ring is a tiny bit of an otherwise huge white area - a longer focal length will give you more chance to shoot from further back whilst enlarging the lens's coverage of the frame (of course then you will have to contend with depth of field changing).

For learning I would recommend a few resources;
1) Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson - I can't tell how much you do/don't know of this from these shots; but if you're concerned about exposure this book is the go-to reference for getting started

2) Light Science and Magic - a very good reference book for lighting and I would strongly recommend it. It will give you a lot of information about how to manipulate and control lighting and in this kind of product photography that is the most important thing (the lens and the camera are almost not important at all in todays market unless you want to do very big enlargements/prints.
 
MJRG001lew.jpg
As they said, this lens is capable.
In the first shot there is considerable motion blur but also focus blur
IMO, these shots have the best result when done on well-locked down tripod with mirror lockup and f stop optimized for DOF.
 
Both photos look soft.

I'm unsure if this is an error in your process or an error in the editing or a mix of both, so could you provide the settings you used for both shots - aperture, shutter speed and ISO. Along with that details of how you took the shot (eg are you on a tripod) and if you can a shot of your lighting setup to show how you've got the lighting positioned (Although it seems that you've got the lighting decently under control).

The lens and camera you have should be more than capable of providing a very sharp shot, although I would say at a practical level that a 40mm macro lens doesn't give much room to work in; I would suggest a longer lens, say 90mm or a bit longer might be more useful. It also appears that you're taking shots fairly far back (likely so you don't get the camera shadowing the lighting) which means the ring is a tiny bit of an otherwise huge white area - a longer focal length will give you more chance to shoot from further back whilst enlarging the lens's coverage of the frame (of course then you will have to contend with depth of field changing).

For learning I would recommend a few resources;
1) Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson - I can't tell how much you do/don't know of this from these shots; but if you're concerned about exposure this book is the go-to reference for getting started

2) Light Science and Magic - a very good reference book for lighting and I would strongly recommend it. It will give you a lot of information about how to manipulate and control lighting and in this kind of product photography that is the most important thing (the lens and the camera are almost not important at all in todays market unless you want to do very big enlargements/prints.

The camera and settings info:
For 1st Image:
Camera: Nikon D5100
F-Stop: f/29
Exposure: 1/40 sec
ISO: 560
Focal Length: 40mm
Metering Mode:
Exposure Mode:
White Balance:

For 2nd Image:
Camera: Canon EOS 6D
F-Stop: f/32
Exposure: 1/160 sec
ISO: 100
Focal Length: 100mm
Metering Mode: Spot
Exposure Mode: Manual
White Balance: Manual

I have the Nikon equipment and the second shot was from shared equipment.

- The Nikon setup was a very basic setup:
Three cool temperature lights on stands positioned at the left, right and rear of a Softbox cube & a Tripod at the front.

- The Canon setup was like:
2014-07-08 14.44.57.jpg
 
yes,image will be great as long as your lighting is good.
note on your linked example, the faint shadow in front to give it substance and the reflection of the overhead in the back of the ring.

Open the aperture to f16 ; at f29 the diffraction decreases resolution and image will look like crap
(note the mtf chart chart at Micro Nikkor AF-S DX 40mm f/2.8 G - Review / Test Report - Analysis. Even at f22 is is considerably less than optimum; at f29 it would be terrible).

At f16 you have about 1 foot of depth of field, much more than you need. Check Depth of Field(DOF) at Online Depth of Field Calculator

Use Liveview to focus then, because there is no true Mirror Lockup to avoid vibration from shutter release and mirror slap in the D5100.
But there is a Quiet Shutter (found in Shooting Menu>Release Mode) . It actuates the mirror about half a second before the shutter works and it moves the mirror slower and more carefully to reduce vibration from mirror slap as much as possible.

So,
  • reset aperture to f 16
  • set focus to manual
  • shoot in raw (once you have your process down you could shoot in jpeg and save processing)
  • overexpose by a stop or so (to be tested - white background will cause everything to be underexposed)
  • Ensure camera is tight on tripod
  • Set to Live View and focus on ring
  • Set shutter to Quiet Shutter.
  • Place one hand firmly on top of camera to stabilize, press shutter release with other hand.

Record distance from front lens element to ring so you can repeat easily.

Your results should be markedly better.
 
yes,image will be great as long as your lighting is good.
note on your linked example, the faint shadow in front to give it substance and the reflection of the overhead in the back of the ring.

Open the aperture to f16 ; at f29 the diffraction decreases resolution and image will look like crap
(note the mtf chart chart at Micro Nikkor AF-S DX 40mm f/2.8 G - Review / Test Report - Analysis. Even at f22 is is considerably less than optimum; at f29 it would be terrible).

At f16 you have about 1 foot of depth of field, much more than you need. Check Depth of Field(DOF) at Online Depth of Field Calculator

Use Liveview to focus then, because there is no true Mirror Lockup to avoid vibration from shutter release and mirror slap in the D5100.
But there is a Quiet Shutter (found in Shooting Menu>Release Mode) . It actuates the mirror about half a second before the shutter works and it moves the mirror slower and more carefully to reduce vibration from mirror slap as much as possible.

So,
  • reset aperture to f 16
  • set focus to manual
  • shoot in raw (once you have your process down you could shoot in jpeg and save processing)
  • overexpose by a stop or so (to be tested - white background will cause everything to be underexposed)
  • Ensure camera is tight on tripod
  • Set to Live View and focus on ring
  • Set shutter to Quiet Shutter.
  • Place one hand firmly on top of camera to stabilize, press shutter release with other hand.

Record distance from front lens element to ring so you can repeat easily.

Your results should be markedly better.
Thank You so much. Will try this and get back to you.
 
I've to buy a new Camera because the D5100 is lost and am planning to buy a Nikon because the Nikon AF-S DX 40mm Macro Lens is still with me and as you guys said I don't need to change the lens as it can deliver sharper and higher quality image.

So which one should I buy price range ( ~ INR 50,000 / $800)?
 
$800 will easily get you a D7000 or used D300 or possibly a used D7100. All of which are great cameras and a step(s) up from the D5100.
 
Welcome to the site.
 

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