Why would a pro go from a D800 to a D4?

If you're taking pictures of stuff that doesn't move around, you can use pretty much anything you like and hit it with the "Brenizer Method" which essentially uses your (small) sensor as a larger one through stitching.

Do It In Post!
 
If you're taking pictures of stuff that doesn't move around, you can use pretty much anything you like and hit it with the "Brenizer Method" which essentially uses your (small) sensor as a larger one through stitching.

Do It In Post!

errr... I'm trying to wrap my brain around that and not seeing how that works.

DOF, quality and noise issues would all seem to be an issue regardless... though I suppose if you lash together enough shots and downsampled...

Ugh. That just hurts my brain.
 
manaheim said:
errr... I'm trying to wrap my brain around that and not seeing how that works.

DOF, quality and noise issues would all seem to be an issue regardless... though I suppose if you lash together enough shots and downsampled...

Ugh. That just hurts my brain.

DoF is 'solved' by brenzier because you're using smaller images with more magnification to create an image with a larger field of view.

If, as amolitor specified, your subject isn't moving, noise isn't an issue, just shoot long exposures with long exposure noise correction.
 
Oh... wow. That's messed up.
 
Sure, this method would work - it'd work with a medium format camera as well - but, what a pain.
 
Sure, this method would work - it'd work with a medium format camera as well - but, what a pain.

ha, yeah. Just waiting for somebody to brenzier a medium format.
 
I love how people attribute the technique to Brenzier. As if he was the first one to realize that you can stitch together photos in both the x- and y-axis... Brenzier's "method" is more of a technique.
 
Is that like the dude who painted the "happy little trees"? I understand he basically "stole" his method from his own teacher.
 
If you think about how Brenizer (yes, the naming isn't really appropriate, but it's the name we've got) it's pretty much exactly like lashing your whatever-lens-you're-using (say, 85mm f/2.8) onto the front of a larger sensor (and magically getting it to cover the larger sensor).

Don't think of it as stitching the image "out there", think of it as stitching the image projected onto the sensor, and it should fall into place.

I dunno if it's one click now, but if it's not it will be. Lock focus and exposure, pan the camera around in a spiral, out from the desired center of the frame, taking pictures. Dump the whole mess into whatever software and press "go" and, poof, medium format image, or large format, whatever you like, as taken with whatever lens you had on the front. It's not any freakier than the old slit-scan pano cameras, which are the analog version of pretty much exactly the same thing.

I don't see that this introduces any noise, per se, and the quality doesn't do anything but go up.

Computational photography, it's the future!

Anyways, uh, this is pretty far afield from the OP, sorry!
 
one huge advantage to the technique is that focal length is not tied to FOV. This is actually a big advantage IMO, and one reason I'm very interested in robotic heads. In fact, magnification is tied to resolution.
 
I just like the tilt-shift medium-large format effect that I can get with the bokeh panorama thing.

Although if I stitch through PS it sometimes can't put together some of the OOF background photos depending on how shallow the DOF is.


Does anyone know of a stitching software that is more capable than Photoshop and more accurate? Oh, and one that blends the photos together so I don't have to mess with levels and color for every little piece
 
Does anyone know of a stitching software that is more capable than Photoshop and more accurate? Oh, and one that blends the photos together so I don't have to mess with levels and color for every little piece

There is Hugin. But it's not easy to use.
 
rexbobcat, I'm curious how canon's photostitch might work? Yeah, yeah, it came with the camera so what good could it do, right? I actually heard that it's not too bad though...
 
jaomul said:
If working in unsavoury areas the d4 is better at stopping the guy trying to mug you. Who would want a slap from one of them

A steel manfrotto monopod works well too. Also an SB910 full power zoomed to 200mm popped in their eyes (especially if dark) can work wonders.

I carry a Glock 26....... But don't make me break out the 50 cal Desert Eagle.....
 

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