would a Yongnuo 560III hold up to a wedding environment?

[JustJazzie]

Hypothetically speaking of course, is that flash enough? Or would you need something beefier with ttl and better recycle rates?

 

[tirediron]

What I would want is a flash which will accept an external power-pack so my recycle times are quicker and I don't have to change batteries as often. I'm not familiar enough with the Yongnuo line to comment knowledgeably on it, but from what I've heard, it should do the job.

 

[wyogirl]

Depending on the battery life in the battery that you put in the YN-560, you can expect a recycle time of 1-3 seconds. You can also expect to replace those batteries more than once during the event if you are firing a lot of flash.

As for portability and bang for your buck, yeah its the way to go.

 

[JustJazzie]

Lack of ttl isn't an issue at weddings?

 

[wyogirl]

I don't like ttl. So for me that isn't an issue.

 

[Derrel]

TTL is one flash metering and control method. Another method is called AUTO-Thyristor (in all caps on the auto part) in its proper name, but that has sort of morphed into just "AUTO-flash", and some people call it auto-aperture flash, which is an old, yet pretty amazingly reliable way of dishing out the right amount of flash for a specific ISO level and a specific aperture. It's a low-tech system that has worked for over 40 years now. Auto-flash.

You set the ISO to say 200. You program that into the flash by hand, with a dial or LCD screen, or on modern high-tech flashes, the flash "knows" the ISO is at 200, via electronic interface. You then set the flash to a SPECIFIC aperture value setting, like, let's say f/5.6. When the flash is fired, the flash meters the amount of light that is going out and coming back, and, at the speed of light, manages to "squelch" [that is the correct word] the flash at just the right time, to provide a consistent, correct exposure based on reflected returned light, for f/5.6 at ISO 200.

AUTO-Thyristor or AUTO-aperture aka AUTO-flash is low tech, and works across any and all brands of camera, with no need for TTL capability in the camera, so it's less-expensive than a TTL flash. AUTO-flash is very consistent, and if the flash and camera are not electronically communicating with one another, it's easy to "lie to the flash", and deliberately mis-set either the ISO level, or the Aperture control on the flash, or to deliberately mis-set the camera ISO or lens opening size to get optimized results. Want to shoot fill-flash in sunlight with a low-tech AUTO-flash unit? Simply set the ISO on camera to 200, but deliberately mis-set the flash to 800 to 1250 ISO...BOOM!!! Instantly, the flash will output less flash than needed for a full, flash-only exposure level, and you'll get the tiniest little pipsqueak flash, which will be two to two and two-thirds EV lower than full-flash: so in other words, good, bright-sun daylight fill-flash level output.

The reason I mention this in such detail is that there now are entirely, 100% MANUAL flash units from Yongnuo and other Chinese makers, that offer zero metering of the flash, and the user must adjust the flash power, or the lens f/stop, all damned day long, to get the proper exposure. Now THAT would be a regal PITA at a wedding.

Make SURE the flash you buy has an AUTO-flash capability, not the absolute minimalist manual-only flash capability. You do not need "TTL" flash, but I really do think that AUTO-flash is probably the best and easiest thing ever developed for flash. I prefer it to TTL, even thought I also own high-tech flash units and modern cameras, I feel pretty comfortable that the old, 1960's era AUTO-Thyristor flash measuring is one of the best ways ever developed to allow the user to actually make adjustments without the flash unit trying to un-do the adjustments, or to out-think me every single time I make an aperture or ISO shift. So, a low-tech, non-dedicated flash with AUTO-aperture flash control might really be a good thing. And Yongy might be a good choice if it offers that, and not TTL.

 

[JustJazzie]

TTL is one flash metering and control method. Another method is called AUTO-Thyristor (in all caps on the auto part) in its proper name, but that has sort of morphed into just "AUTO-flash", and some people call it auto-aperture flash, which is an old, yet pretty amazingly reliable way of dishing out the right amount of flash for a specific ISO level and a specific aperture. It's a low-tech system that has worked for over 40 years now. Auto-flash.

You set the ISO to say 200. You program that into the flash by hand, with a dial or LCD screen, or on modern high-tech flashes, the flash "knows" the ISO is at 200, via electronic interface. You then set the flash to a SPECIFIC aperture value setting, like, let's say f/5.6. When the flash is fired, the flash meters the amount of light that is going out and coming back, and, at the speed of light, manages to "squelch" [that is the correct word] the flash at just the right time, to provide a consistent, correct exposure based on reflected returned light, for f/5.6 at ISO 200.

AUTO-Thyristor or AUTO-aperture aka AUTO-flash is low tech, and works across any and all brands of camera, with no need for TTL capability in the camera, so it's less-expensive than a TTL flash. AUTO-flash is very consistent, and if the flash and camera are not electronically communicating with one another, it's easy to "lie to the flash", and deliberately mis-set either the ISO level, or the Aperture control on the flash, or to deliberately mis-set the camera ISO or lens opening size to get optimized results. Want to shoot fill-flash in sunlight with a low-tech AUTO-flash unit? Simply set the ISO on camera to 200, but deliberately mis-set the flash to 800 to 1250 ISO...BOOM!!! Instantly, the flash will output less flash than needed for a full, flash-only exposure level, and you'll get the tiniest little pipsqueak flash, which will be two to two and two-thirds EV lower than full-flash: so in other words, good, bright-sun daylight fill-flash level output.

The reason I mention this in such detail is that there now are entirely, 100% MANUAL flash units from Yongnuo and other Chinese makers, that offer zero metering of the flash, and the user must adjust the flash power, or the lens f/stop, all damned day long, to get the proper exposure. Now THAT would be a regal PITA at a wedding.

Make SURE the flash you buy has an AUTO-flash capability, not the absolute minimalist manual-only flash capability. You do not need "TTL" flash, but I really do think that AUTO-flash is probably the best and easiest thing ever developed for flash. I prefer it to TTL, even thought I also own high-tech flash units and modern cameras, I feel pretty comfortable that the old, 1960's era AUTO-Thyristor flash measuring is one of the best ways ever developed to allow the user to actually make adjustments without the flash unit trying to un-do the adjustments, or to out-think me every single time I make an aperture or ISO shift. So, a low-tech, non-dedicated flash with AUTO-aperture flash control might really be a good thing. And Yongy might be a good choice if it offers that, and not TTL.

Thanks Derrel!! I'll have to read up on this a bit.

 

[pixmedic]

The nikon sb24 and sb28 (I currently have both) are examples of flashes with both the TTL and AUTO - FLASH functions.

 

[WayneF]

The nikon sb24 and sb28 (I currently have both) are examples of flashes with both the TTL and AUTO - FLASH functions.

And Manual flash mode too, but the old TTL is just for film cameras, which does not work for modern digital cameras.

For Nikon digital today, the times would need iTTL instead.

 

[pixmedic]

The nikon sb24 and sb28 (I currently have both) are examples of flashes with both the TTL and AUTO - FLASH functions.

And Manual flash mode too, but the old TTL is just for film cameras, which does not work for modern digital cameras.

For Nikon digital today, the times would need iTTL instead.

Sure, but the AUTO feature works just fine.

 

[Derrel]

The nikon sb24 and sb28 (I currently have both) are examples of flashes with both the TTL and AUTO - FLASH functions.

And Manual flash mode too, but the old TTL is just for film cameras, which does not work for modern digital cameras.

For Nikon digital today, the times would need iTTL instead.

Sure, but the AUTO feature works just fine.

My late 1970's and early 1980's Vivitar 285 and 285HV flash units and their AUTO-Thyristor color-coded system still works fine!!!

I shot my brother's wedding two years ago using a D3x and an SB-16 flash unit I bought when Ronald Reagan was president, using, you guessed it, the SB-16's simple two-f/stop AUTO-Thyristor option. I used it because I wanted a flash that had two flash panels: one for bounce, one for eye catchlights.

AUTO-aperture flash is really easy to use...I still prefer it to TTL....just less hassle...I set the flash one way, the camera the other way, and when I see the LCD review, I KNOW EXACTLY WHAT NEEDS TO BE ADJUSTED, without needing to take a second shot, and see if the TTL system has tried to "out-smart me".

 

[wyogirl]

My problem, as put by Derrel, is that TTL seems to try to outsmart me. Its probably just me, and maybe I'm not using it corectly. But I can't seem to get what I'm looking for unless I'm using manual flash.

 

[WayneF]

My problem, as put by Derrel, is that TTL seems to try to outsmart me. Its probably just me, and maybe I'm not using it corectly. But I can't seem to get what I'm looking for unless I'm using manual flash.

? You can of course look at your manual flash result, and decide if it needs a little more flash power, or a little less?

You can do exactly the same with the TTL flash result, and decide if it needs a little more or less flash. The way you adjust TTL is with Flash Compensation.

Yes, TTL does vary a little with the cameras reflective metering (exactly the same way non-flash varies with reflective metering), but TTL flash will simply start off closer to correct than Manual flash. Same as Manual flash, you simply do what you see you need to do, but just less of it as a rule. And once you compensate it properly, then as a rule, you can walk around the room shooting, and it will vary with the situation, and normally still be about correct (in that same situation). Manual doesn't do that.

 

[MOREGONE]

I have a 560-II with an external battery pack and use it for the reception to light up the venue and dance floor. I then have another flash on camera or handheld I use for the subjects.

I think the 560-III is an awesome choice if you are comfortable with Manual flash. With the 560-TX you can now remotely control the 560 so it will be easier than I have had it with my 560 being I would set it up, test fire, take it down adjust etc.

They are def sturdy enough if thats what you're asking.

 

[Village Idiot]

My problem, as put by Derrel, is that TTL seems to try to outsmart me. Its probably just me, and maybe I'm not using it corectly. But I can't seem to get what I'm looking for unless I'm using manual flash.

Manual flash is great if you have subjects that aren't going to be at varying distances from the camera where lighting conditions may constantly change. I use manual flash at the few weddings I'm doing when I'm doing formal shots and fun photo booth type shots. Any other time, I'm using a TTL enabled flash. You just don't have the time to constantly be fooling with settings. When you're busy messing with flash power settings trying to get it right, you're missing moments.