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Haha, good call. Apparently I didn't wear my common sense today. I think I've figured out my confusion with the Kodak chemicals. Thanks for your help.

Are the color chemicals reusable? $34 for a 1 qt. E-6 kit doesn't seem to make sense when I need 18 ounces for one roll of 120. I know B&W chems are reusable, and even the developer can be reused once. Is this true for color as well? Thanks for the Freestyle links, BTW. I hadn't even thought of...

Woops, looks like I missed whatever Paul edited out :( BTW I've temporarily solved the problem by buying a 90mm, haha.

So I've been developing my own B&W film for years now, and I feel it's time to move onto color processes. Thing is, I can't figure out what exactly I need to buy for chemicals. I'm interested in both E-6 and C-41. If someone could give me a list of things I new for one or the other (or both!)...

50mm f/4.5, non-C Weird thing is I've shot a couple rolls with it, and they've all come out pretty well. Any idea how much a CLA would cost?

Alright so, just fired off a bunch of shots, looking through the back of the camera. I looks like the shutter is trying to close, but can't quite make it. Sometimes it makes it all the way down to a pinhole, most of the time it gets stuck halfway. So I'm guessing it needs a CLA. I'm gonna run...

Alright thanks a lot. I'll try that out tonight.

How do I fire the lens off camera? I tried using the release cable where it usually goes and the lens doesn't fire. Yes, the knob is set to M.

I'm using two separate shutter release cables to use the mirror lock up, and I'm having an issue. Here's what I'm doing: Release cable into the lens, release cable into the shutter release on the camera body. I first activate the release on the body, and the mirror goes up. I then activate...

Around here, most of the Chinese take-out places are run by people from Vietnam. So you may be in the clear!

Your specs are fine. I would guess there is a corrupt file somewhere or something. Maybe try uninstalling it and installing it again.

Probably because it's easier to move your hand a little bit than to crop every single image you shoot. You're also wasting a lot of your image plane by doing what you suggest. Some 6x7 medium format cameras have revolving backs, so instead of rotating the camera you just rotate the film back...

Both the 18-55 and the 18-105 are kit lenses (probably what you mean by stock). The 18-55 is low-end zoom, and the 18-105 is more of a mid-range zoom in terms of quality. Both lenses are capable of taking fine photographs, though they have their limitations (particularly slow apertures).

Preposterous!

Older IS systems, like EG's 28-135 are supposed to give an extra 2 or 3 stops. I'm sure newer IS systems will do even better than that.

I started out as a digital photographer, and occasionally would shoot film. Then I started taking classes that required me to shoot film, and I got into really playing with it and stretching it's boundaries. I recently bought a Mamiya RB67 and am in the process of selling my dSLR. No matter how...

I assume the weight of the tripod is the biggest issue? I've found a few possible combinations of legs/heads that will support around 20lbs for under $200. What else do I need to look for?

I have an RB67 coming to me on Tuesday, and am fairly certain my $25 tripod isn't going to be up to the task of supporting this monster. So I'm asking you guys, what do you put between the ground and your camera? I'd really only like to spend around $150, which I know is probably in the "cheap"...

The closest public darkroom to me is three hours away. I have plenty of experience with 35mm B&W, and I assume MF B&W would be very similar. It's the color stuff that gets me a little nervous.

I'll consider this option more seriously, but to start out I think I would be more comfortable getting my film processed at a lab, at least for the first few rolls. B&W I will definitely be processing myself when I can get the stuff I need, but color processing - especially E6 - is something I...