1x Canon 5D Mark III - barely used with 869 actuations. Camera was never dropped, or taken out in the rain despite being made for harsh conditions. Camera has no scratches whatsoever on both the top mount LCD and rear LCD. The rear LCD has a Canon certified LCD screen protector applied on. The...
1x Sony A7r (ILCE-7R) - 1408 actuations. In mint condition, no sign of use and wear and tear. LCD screen is protected by high quality screen protector. Camera includes box and all supplied contents.
1x Sony FE 55mm f/1.8 - In mint condition. Includes B+W UV filter and circular polarizer...
SAT's are in less than 2 weeks and I thought I'd do a self-portrait to remember my epic debacle to studying when I (hopefully) get into NYU. Math is going to kill me. Wish me luck guys!
Sure, why not. I used a plugin from Nik Software called Color Efex which has all these options to enhance color in an image. Respectively, Silver Efex Pro is the plugin which allows to convert to and enhances shade or "black and white" of an image.
For this image, I used the "Neutral Density...
I'll agree with you about the aperature range but the fact that Canon also offers the f/1.4 and f/1.8 at a $300 difference is reasonable because at least all Canon cameras have built in AF motors. With Nikon you spend more money because you're forced to buy the f/1.4 whereas with Canon I could...
If you read my post thoroughly, you would have noticed that I compared the f/1.8 and f/1.4. I would have bought the f/1.8 for $100 if it had an AF motor but it didn't so I had to pay $300 more for the f/1.4.
That's not a valid argument. Who would spend $2500+ on an FF camera and not utilize it to it's full potential? I bought a 5D Mark II and the last thing I would want to buy for it is a lens made for APS-C. That's why the L series lenses are there. Not to mention the fact that only 13-18ish...
The problem with AF-S lenses is that they cost much, much more than those that are not AF-S. When I had my D60, I could have paid $100 for the 50mm f/1.8 but then it wouldn't auto-focus. So of course I had to pay $300 more for the f/1.4. To me f/1.8 and f/1.4 didn't mean a lot to me so I wasn't...
Hey guys, I'm requesting that my critique be a little different from the ones that are usually given here. Of course the traditional technical tips are welcome but I need to know something. Is there an obvious "mood" or "story" that you can infer from the two pictures. Much thanks.
Use the 24-85 @ f/2.8 and put it as ISO 1600 but no more than 3200. Also, if you have a hand warmer, you might want to wrap that around your lens to prevent moisture/dew forming.
Picture styles is useful if you're thinking about converting to black and white later on with the monochrome option. Putting the picture in monochrome gives you an idea if a picture will look good or not before post-processing.
Hey everyone, I'm having a problem with taking long exposures with the remote. I was trying to get a 1 exposure shot of a clock at ISO 100 at f/8 but it keeps getting over exposed. Even if I do 5 seconds it gets overexposed. I've never had this problem when doing star trails or light trails...
1 shot per hour? I understand you want a long time lapse but 1 shot per hour I think is a bit too much. Depending on how long it takes for the construction project to be completed, I would say at least 1 shot per 5 min or 10 min if need be.
So I was on another photo gallery and on the forums someone posted this and I just HAD to post it in this thread. I think the point of the video is pretty true to its message (and the rapping is just great). Sorry if this has been posted before haha.
[EDIT] - Just realized it's been posted on...
I moved from a Nikon D60 to the 5D Mark II a little while ago. I think it was worth it but since you have the D90, you have to deal with less BS than I did. The D60 didn't AF while Canon bodies did. There was no AEB on the D60 and no support for a intervelometer remote.
I say go for it. I have...