11mm vs 18mm stitched

pthrift

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So I'm curious as to what the difference is between the end result of say a 10-11-12mm FOV in a shot and say two 18mm shots stitched together. I've seen people reference it before but is it that noticeable?


I typically prefer to shoot landscape pics, so I'm debating the Tokina 11-16 vs keep using my 18-55 or 18-105 wide open and if it isn't enough stitch multiple images together.

Thoughts?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4; probably while slacking off at work
 
I generally prefer panoramas to UWAs, except where subject movement makes it impractical; say for instance you have moving vehicles in the distance, or aircraft... getting them to match up in the pano could be a real challenge.
 
Depends on how much you pivot the camera.
 
I would choose the Nikon/Canon/Sigma 10-20 over something that starts at 11 or 12 mm. The difference is noticeable.

Stitching requires your subject not move. Reasonable when shooting landscapes, not so much if there is a cruise ship in the scene or you are shooting a room full of people. Similar to problems with HDR, but setting up for the second stitched shot may take longer because you have to pan. A tripod with a panning head is a big help because you need to keep the camera very level, and shoot with the same light, same shutter speed, same aperture, same focus, etc. Some P&S cameras can do a stitch exercise just by holding the shutter release down and panning slowly! One of my old bridge cameras had a mode that showed you part of your last photo so you could get the overlap right. I'm not aware of any dSLR's that offer that feature. You have to overlap about a third of the photo to get good automatic stitching.

Someone made a machine that holds a Canon G10 or G11, and takes photos with the lens zoomed to the maximum. They took a lot of photos of the Grand Canyon and stitched them into a huge image. There are some other simpler arrangements too.

A single shot with a wide lens is easier than stitching. If you are going to shoot a lot of wide shots, a lens is a better choice. If you are only going to do one or two photos, stitching can save you the cost of a lens rental, or purchase.
 
Thanks for the responses y'all. I guess I really need to google and see for myself-- that's what I was hoping to find was a "heres scene stitched at 18mm, here's same scene at 11mm"

As far as steady panning, I use a manfrotto 3 way adjustable tripod head which offers panning without moving anything else.

My typical shots dont include ships or planes or etc, usually its mountains or rivers or the sea

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4; probably while slacking off at work
 
You can stitch scenes shot with a 500mm if you want.
 
Thanks for the responses y'all. I guess I really need to google and see for myself-- that's what I was hoping to find was a "heres scene stitched at 18mm, here's same scene at 11mm"

As far as steady panning, I use a manfrotto 3 way adjustable tripod head which offers panning without moving anything else.

My typical shots dont include ships or planes or etc, usually its mountains or rivers or the sea

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4; probably while slacking off at work

If you are looking at them on your computer monitor, you probably won't see much difference if the stitch job is good. It is a bit like looking at an image from a crop sensor at 10 mm and a full frame sensor at 16 mm, framed on your monitor, they look the same. When you zoom in, you discover the 16 mm photo has more resolution. Stitching will give more resolution because it is usually done with a longer lens and two or more overlapping frames. How you benefit from that depends on how you display the image.
 
Here's a shot using 11 images shot at 11mm on a DX camera. Stitched using photoshop. Oh, and I used a home-made apparatus to reduce the parralax effect.

Tunk by f_one_eight, on Flickr

Jake
 
If the subject area is close enough to be distorted by the wide lens there may be some difference but in a landscape and you use a good software product like Photoshop to stitch the shots together you won't see any difference. Just more shots to stitch with the 18 vs the 12.
 
If the subject area is close enough to be distorted by the wide lens there may be some difference but in a landscape and you use a good software product like Photoshop to stitch the shots together you won't see any difference. Just more shots to stitch with the 18 vs the 12.


Thanks for the advice
 
Here's a shot using 11 images shot at 11mm on a DX camera. Stitched using photoshop. Oh, and I used a home-made apparatus to ...

Jake

Thanks Jake. Helpful as always.
 

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