2 Questions please...

BuS_RiDeR

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There was a thread a week or two ago asking what "mode" we shot in...

Up until recently, I have been using Av and Tv for most everything.

That other thread got me to experiment more with Manual Mode and I must say I am hooked. However. I see now (moreso than before) how important good/fast glass is.

I would like to do some indoor sports work. However, my limited glass offers only an aperture of 4.0-5.6 and with that my best shutter is like 1/30 th or 1/45th (ish). I am uncomfortable using anything above ISO 800 (looks like crap)...

I am NOT very steady when it comes to handholding the cam? So a shutter of 1/30th or even 1/45th is pushing my limits...

Question #1

Are there any tips or tricks that would allow me to improve my results in this genre using my current gear?

Question #2

What is the REAL difference between a lens that offers an apperture in the 1.4 or 1.8 range to lets say a 2.8?
 
Do you have a monopod?
I'm asking because I recently ordered one for the wedding I shot, simpley because that 70-200 2.8 AF-S VR lens is heavy as hell and I know I could not hold it up all day long.
I think a monopod is better for situations that require you to move.
 
To keep your camera steady at slow shutter speeds, check into a monopod. Many indoor venues won't let you use a tripod, so the monopod is your best option.

It seems you've done all you can do with your equipment to achieve a high shutter speed. A couple of tricks to freeze movement is to shoot at the peak of action. Such as the top of a jump, or the end of a batters swing. It's the time when there's the least movement. You can also position yourself so the action is coming toward you instead of moving from left to right or right to left.

The difference between 1.4 and 2.8 is about one f-stop. When you're shooting in low light you need ever stop, or portion thereof, that you can get. I always but the fastest lens I can afford. But be aware that the price of a 1.4 lens is often double the price of a 2.8. Paying for that extra stop is expensive.

Have Fun,
Jeff
 
With any sports your gonna need a fast shutter speed, so being able to get to 1/30 is really gonna do you no good. Get the 50 1.8 and go from there. Its cheap, and fast and then you can at least get a feel for what your really working with as far as the lighting indoor.
 
You will not do very well indoor sports work with that aperture range. You will not get the speeds you need and will have to boost the ISO to unusable levels. I have had to boost the 70-200 2.8 to ISO 1600 to get halfway decent speeds for volleyball. What you CAN do, if possible, is use a monopod and time your shots. For instance, when someone jumps and reaches their highest point before coming down ( to catch a ball, or spike a volleyball etc. ) they are essentially stopped or moving much slower for a split second. This is when you would want to shoot. ISO 800 and 1600 should be pretty useable on a 50D. I would work on learning some post production NOISE REDUCTION. Like I said, even WITH fast glass ( unless its fast prime 2.0 or less ) you will probably need to be atleast 800 ISO or higher if you even want to begin to think about freezing fast paced action. So I guess if using your current gear, you will have to really plan your shots and hope for the best. Also, make sure you get a good white balance set and get a good exposure. This can help reduce excessive noise.
 
Do you have a monopod?

Thank you for your comments as well Jeff...

No I don't have a monopod. However, it is on my list of "things I want". Its #2 right after a remote shutter release... Maybe I should move it to #1.

Unfortunately, I am unemployed due to health issues atm... So it might need to wait. This is the same reason I can't afford to upgrade my lenses at this time either.

I'll try to make due with what I've got. Thank you.
 
Also, if you are shooting close sports like volleyball. The cheap as crap 50mm 1.8 ( $100 or less if used ) would do GREAT.
 

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