20x30print help

[Robin Usagani]

Ok.. so my 500D has a maximum resolution of 4752 x 3168. If I print 20x30, that means my ppi is only 158. When I google about printing 20x30, there as so many people say they sent 20x30 300dpi. What are they saying? They have a 54MP camera??

So anyway, my question is, is it that bad to tell the software to interpolate it so it is 300 ppi?

 

[Polyphony]

I JUST had prints delivered today from mpix at 198dpi. They were 16x24. They look fine from a normal viewing distance. If you order from mpix be aware that the image you get will be significantly darker than what it looks like on your screen. In other words, if there is a dark portion of your image on the screen, it will print out close to black on the paper. I suggest adding extra fill light to your images or something to that effect.

 

[icassell]

I JUST had prints delivered today from mpix at 198dpi. They were 16x24. They look fine from a normal viewing distance. If you order from mpix be aware that the image you get will be significantly darker than what it looks like on your screen. In other words, if there is a dark portion of your image on the screen, it will print out close to black on the paper. I suggest adding extra fill light to your images or something to that effect.

I have never had the issue with dark printing from MPIX. Is your monitor calibrated correctly? What color space are you sending your file to them?

As for large prints ... If you routinely print big images, let me recommend Genuine Fractals. It allows very large enlargements without pixelation. You get the added benefit that there is an excellent sharpening action out there by Noel Carboni that uses it in combination with Photoshop.

 

[Big Mike]

Your camera is perfectly capable of making 20x30 prints.

300 PPI is a standard that a lot of people use...but it's not a hard rule. You can certainly make prints with a lower PPI file. And the larger the print size, the lower the PPI you can get away with. Remember that large prints aren't meant to be viewed up close, they are meant to be viewed from the appropriate viewing distance.

So one option is to just send the file to the lab, as is. Let them deal with it. Another option is is upsize the image....using software to interpolate the image and increase the number of pixels. You can do this with photoshop but the best program for it, is called Genuine Fractals.

Of course, as you increase the size of the image, the quality drops. How much, and when it becomes noticeable, will depend on many factors...but again, keep in mind the viewing distance.

It's wasn't all that long ago that most DSLR cameras were 6MP. And it wasn't long before that when Canon's best DSLR was only 4MP. Those cameras were capable of producing files that were OK to print at large sizes.

 

[Big Mike]

If you order from mpix be aware that the image you get will be significantly darker than what it looks like on your screen.

If that's the case, then you have a calibration problem.

 

[Robin Usagani]

do you think their printer uses good software to interpolate? Mike, if I dont buy Genuine Fractals, what do you recommend? Just send them the file and let them worry about it? Do you think I should force it to go up to 300dpi? Shall I just leave it blank?

 

[MohaimenK]

have you tried calling one of those places and ask? maybe they can explain to you what they want from you and what they would do. they've been doing it for years and i think that's the best way to go

 

[Big Mike]

Yes, the best thing would be to call the lab and just ask them.

 

[rufus5150]

MPIX does an excellent job at upsizing images and 150ppi is enough (they require a minimum of 100 or 115 for press type things, their ROES software has warnings).

Genuine Fractals is awesome, but if you're upscaling to 20-30 from a full-size image out of full or near-full res file from a 50D, try just using the resize (or more properly, resample) algorithms within photoshop -- the trick is, use the one that says it's best for reduction, not enlargement (bicubic sharpener maybe?). For moderate enlargements, I can't tell the difference between it and GF (GF wins the 'massively upsize' battle, tho).

 

[MohaimenK]

Great minds think alike Mike LOL

 

[icassell]

As an aside (and I apologize for the brief hijack), GF is even worth the investment (and there is academic pricing available) if you are only interested in it as a sharpening tool.

Workflow Technique #026 @Digital Outback Photo

 

[Polyphony]

I JUST had prints delivered today from mpix at 198dpi. They were 16x24. They look fine from a normal viewing distance. If you order from mpix be aware that the image you get will be significantly darker than what it looks like on your screen. In other words, if there is a dark portion of your image on the screen, it will print out close to black on the paper. I suggest adding extra fill light to your images or something to that effect.

I have never had the issue with dark printing from MPIX. Is your monitor calibrated correctly? What color space are you sending your file to them?

As for large prints ... If you routinely print big images, let me recommend Genuine Fractals. It allows very large enlargements without pixelation. You get the added benefit that there is an excellent sharpening action out there by Noel Carboni that uses it in combination with Photoshop.

sRGB just like their website says.

Also, my monitor is calibrated.

 

[Josh66]

I've had a few 20x20's made from 3456x3456 pixel files at Mpix, and they looked great.

(They were 3456 on the long side, and I added canvas to make it square.)