A Sheet, Two PhotoFlood Lights, Tripod, & A D50

[iPanzica]

So that's what I have to work with at the moment. Can anyone give me any advice on fixing my white backgrounds. I don't much much about lighting, but I am learning. I am really trying to take totally white background pictures with as little photoshoping as possible. What's the best way to do this with what I have? If there is no way what's the best way with spending as little money as possible?

Here is my setup at the moment.

Here is a picture I took in Automatic mode (still very new to the camera trying to remember all the F Stop stuff I learned in college)

No Photoshoping Whatsoever. Just reduced the size.

And here is after. (the effect I am going for (or as close to as possible) I hate using Dodge becuase it just doesn't work as well as the other way.

PS I didn't really want to make it Black and White but it looked better that way with the dodging.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Micheal.

 

[dewey]

I think if you blast the backdrop with bright white lights you'll be closer to what you want.... the backdrop should be fairly easy to drop out if you select a color range and then clear it out - might be faster and easier than dodge?

 

[oldnavy170]

Sorry, I am not going to be much help with your set up. Looks like you have a nice starter home studio going. I too am thinking about investing in some equipment for home. I am interested in what others have to say to help improve your "home studio".

 

[DocFrankenstein]

Put a third light on that white paper

 

[Groupcaptainbonzo]

You should light the white background about 2 stops (Trial and error will tell you exactly how much, but 2 stops is a good starter ) lighter than the subject. Meter off the subject and the background should burn out. You will see grey areas if you need to make it lighter and the burnout will encroach into the subject if it is too light. some say 1 1/2 some say 2 1/2 stops. but 2 will be a good beginning.
if you don't have a separate meter then light the scene, and use the camera to meter first the model and then the background. there should be about 2 stops difference give or take. when this is so, take a shot and review the results....
If you only have the 2 lights you may be able to put the lights on the paper , and light the model with daylight (Worth a try).
Idealy though you will probably need more light(s) for a full length shot.

 

[iPanzica]

Once i figure out what you said about all the stops I'll do it. I really need to take out my old photo notes and read them. I think I got what your talking about, but meh it's almost midnight. Thanks for all the replys.

Keep um coming if you know anything else.

 

[Big Mike]

To make the background appear white, you have to put more light onto it as Groupcaptainbonzo said. That will get it done with little or no Photoshop.

Alternatively, rather than burning in photoshop....just open levels and grab the white point eye dropper...and click on the background...ta da. That will adjust the whole image. If you just want to run levels on the background...use the magic wand to select the background and then run levels and pick the white point. Very fast and easy.

 

[benhasajeep]

First thing if you have not already done so. Take the camera out of AUTO mode! On D-50 it is P. Set it to A or aperature mode. What this allows is you to choose aperature and it will set shutter for propper exposure. Also take the camera out of auto ISO mode. This is a menu function. Set the camera to 200 iso. This is the lowest setting and provides the clearest immages (if your lights are not bright enough you may need iso 400 or even 800 but at least take it out of auto iso).

Now what he means by two stops is the background needs to be 4x brighter than the subject. To do this you would take your camera and meter your subject. Say the camera reads 1/125 at f/8. Now take the camera and meter just the background. If it reads 1/500 at f/8. The background would be 2 stops brighter (notice the shutter speed is 2 settings faster, that is 2 stops). Now just for grins. Say when you meter the background you only get a reading of 1/250 at f/8. That is only 1 setting different from the subject reading. That would be 1 stop. To get a 2 stop difference between background and subject, you have 2 options. Increase the light on the background without increasing light on your subject. Or reduce the light on your subject without reducing the light on the background (ie move the lights or add lights).

Now I am going to throw a wrench into it.

If you adjust your aperature to a lower number (larger lens opening) less of the picture will be in focus. This will help in making the background fade out or be less prominent in the picture. Basically set your aperature so that only the subject is in sharp focus. Example would be at f/16 everything in the picture frame is in focus (subject, background, even light cords 2 feet in front of subject). And at f/4 only the subjects nose to ear is in focus (everything closer than the nose, and everything behind the ears is out of focus). You may want to use f/5.6 or f/8. Get into focus just the subject or even just parts of the subject you want. An out of focus bright background will give you more of the look your are looking for without as much photoshopping. If you have enough and propperly positioned light and aperature set correctly you could get the shot you want without photoshop at all.

For a cheap add on to your kit lights. When you get a chance go to home depot or lowes or ace and buy a couple garage lights. They are the clamp on type with like a 10" metal reflector. A local discount store near me sells them for about $6. Probably $10 or 12 at brand name stores. So about $40 for lights, bulbs, and ceramic insulators you can double your light set. Like I said in another post the ceramic insulators will allow you to use brighter bulbs than the light normally takes due to heat.

 

[benhasajeep]

Also go to ebay and pick up a foam head. They sell them for wig and hat displays. Might find one local at a craft store too. With a foam head and ladder, light stand, or tripod you can have a model that will not loose patience with you while practicing. And will not get too hot after being under hot lights for hour or two straight.

Also get a note pad and sketch your model position, camera position, light positions. Record camera settings, light settings (height, position, and brightness), and image #. When you review your pics on the computer. Review your sketches to the pics and you will pick up what movements does what really quickly. Don't just move something, shoot and forget about everything else. There are standard set ups, but you want to learn for when the non-standard comes up.

 

[texassand]

Thank you for askin all these questions. I've been confused about which route to take also. I have a Canon Rebel XT and am getting into people portrait photos. This is the setup I was going to buy: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=010&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=200044189533&rd=1&rd=1

Is this a rip off. low quality ect.? If so, I will go with something different , but now I'm wondering if I should go with strobe? If a person uses strobe, do they not use ANY continuous lighting? Also, would it be an option to buy this set up and just get more powerful bulbs? Where do you buy bulbs that are 250watt and above anyway? I guess the main reason I wanted to use continuous (lame reason probably) is because I don't understand strobes. I don't even know if my camera would "hook up" to them. Can a pro please give me an idea of a standard setup using strobes and/or contnuous lighting in a studio? Like physically where they are placed in a studio setting (just a common one)?

sorry for all the questions - afterall I'm a "beginner".

thanks

God Bless!!

 

[iPanzica]

I am going to mess with everything you just said. I too would like someday to use strobes (it is the best way do to do this isn't it?) But I have no idea how to use them either. I'll post my results with what you sujested. It's hard doing self portiets, specaily becuse you can't see yourself when your in possition. I need to find a model that I can shoot to pratice.

 

[W.Smith]

[...]It's hard doing self portiets, specaily becuse you can't see yourself when your in possition. I need to find a model that I can shoot to pratice.

Get a written-off mannikin from a fashion store.

 

[iPanzica]

Yea what I do now is pin a thing to the wall to focus but the manican would work better. Any ideas on a strobe setup? How much would that run?

 

[benhasajeep]

Thank you for askin all these questions. I've been confused about which route to take also. I have a Canon Rebel XT and am getting into people portrait photos. This is the setup I was going to buy: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=010&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=200044189533&rd=1&rd=1

Is this a rip off. low quality ect.?
sorry for all the questions - afterall I'm a "beginner".

thanks

God Bless!!

I see nothing wrong with that kit for learning on. Maybe just check the price at B&H to make sure its inline with what it should be. Ebay is not always the cheapest.

As for continious light vs strobes I say go with continious until you have a good feel for what your doing and know that you want to go farther. I am not a studio pro so take what I say with a grain of salt. Now I did learn lighting in college. I had the pleasure of using a studio at will. And yes they were stobes. But what does not get mentioned on here on this debate is when using strobes what are people using for set ups? The strobes have modeling lights (continious lights). You turn them on for setting up the shots. You either turn them off, or on better units they go out when the strobe fires then back on after the shot (if you leave them on). Yes the continious lights do have some disadvantages. But I really think before people go out and spend a thousand or two on strobes, they should learn on cheaper continious lights. I also believe that alot of people who buy middle of the road strobes end up getting more powerfull units after a while anyway. So why not start with inexpensive lights to learn with and maybe start a career with. Then if the opprotunity is there. Buy a very good set of strobes. Will be cheaper in the long run. And just incase you don't go pro, you don't have a couple thousand dollars in the closet! For my own use I do have some cheap strobes. They are low powered and really not quite good enough. But I do get what I want out of them. I feel I should have waited and bought better units. And realistically I probably could have just used and still use continious lights.

Also I am factoring cost. Is it better to have 3 or 4 medium powered continious lights, or 1 strobe? For me unless you have good natural light to work with, hands down it is continious light. For the price of 1 good strobe. You can get an entire continious light kit, background, tripod, and background stand! Alot of people are on budgets when they start out and that does need to be considered!

Lots of good advice on here. Read up and go with what you feel is best. But remember to take time and enjoy it.

 

[iPanzica]

Wow this really is a great help (this thread and I appriacte all the replys) I'm learning a lot. ARound 2pm today (ET) i am going to mess with the manual settings of my camera. But I am thinking about buying another set (two more lights) Should I get the same ones I have now? You can see them in the above picture. They are using 250wt PhotoFlood. or would you recomend a different type of contstant light or something? I also want to get a few backdrops, where is the best place to get them? How many of the constant lights should be enough to be able to get good stuido lighting? I have two, would 4 be ok or would I need more?

Hope to hear from someone soon! Thanks again.