Advice using wider lenses

[photoflyer]

I finally pulled the trigger on the purchase of a shorter (wider) lens by ordering the Samyang 14mm f2.8 EF (manual focus). Prior to this my shoretest was 24mm on the 24-105. I plan to use it full frame for astro, landscapes and interiors.

I know there are several considerations when going wider and I am interested in advice.

 

[Strodav]

I'm not sure what you mean by considerations. For interiors 14mm will give you a large FOV, but you are going to want to watch for geometric distortion, which can usually be fixed in PP. For astrophotography f/2.8 lets in a fair amount of light, but you'll want to watch out for CA, which can also be fixed in PP. For landscapes, 14mm allows you to bring in interesting perspectives by enhancing the size of foreground objects. I like to use 14-24mm for landscapes for that reason. Looks like you bought a nice lens - enjoy.

 

[photoflyer]

I'm not sure what you mean by considerations.

I am looking for tips like you provided. I never assume anything and a smart person once said: "The wise learn from the mistakes of others: fools from their own."

Thanks.

 

[Space Face]

The barrel distortion as alluded to is something to watch for.

As an aside, I have a Samyang 50mm f/1.4 and 8mm fisheye. I think they are great bang for the buck. I'm considering their XP 85mm f/1.2 (Manual Focus) but having difficulty sourcing it at the right price here in the UK. I might just fork out a bit more for Canon 85mm f/1.2L ii.

Anyhow, good luck with it.

 

[photoflyer]

I might just fork out a bit more for Canon 85mm f/1.2L ii.

I've never had any regrets with L glass and that one is a monster!

 

[Space Face]

I might just fork out a bit more for Canon 85mm f/1.2L ii.

I've never had any regrets with L glass and that one is a monster!

Yeah, I have a few L lenses (6 or 7 I think, I'll have to check), they do not disappoint.

 

[Original katomi]

Another thing to watch out for is if you are using wide lens polarised filter effect can change across the wide lens

 

[charlie76]

I just purchased a 14-24 months ago. Amazing outdoor landscape capabilities, but if you are planning to shoot people shots, city shots, indoor stuff, family shots, etc....depending on how close you are to the subject, you need to make sure your subject is centered (or near the center) on the frame because the further you get from the center the more distortion you will get.

 

[Photo7360]

I finally pulled the trigger on the purchase of a shorter (wider) lens by ordering the Samyang 14mm f2.8 EF (manual focus). Prior to this my shoretest was 24mm on the 24-105. I plan to use it full frame for astro, landscapes and interiors.

I know there are several considerations when going wider and I am interested in advice.

I bought the 14 to 24mm lens about a decade ago. It's a great lens. I call mine "Big Betty."

She's a fantastic lens for large landscape areas and for closeups on things like flowers.

It's a curved lens so it can distort the shot in some situations.

You will have a lot of fun with the lens.

 

[greybeard]

I have a 17mm Tokina I like to use FF. My favorite way to use it is to get real close to my main subject like a leaf or flower, assuming it will focus that close, stop down to about f/11. This makes the main subject seem huge in comparison to the background. Expanded perspective.

 

[snowbear]

In general, shorter focal length increases depth of field, so more will be in focus.

 

[mjcmt]

One thing to consider for astro photography is a lenses ability to correct for coma. It will be really noticeable with the thoudands of points of light.
And of course w/ interiors the ability to correct distortion with super wide angles. When I shot interiors I found best results with the camera level, as opposed to tilting down or up, to lessen stretching the room unless you're using it for creative reasons.
With landscapes all is fair for creative exaggeration of landscape.
Lens corner sharpness is critical on all three types of photography you mention.

 

[photoflyer]

I have a 17mm Tokina I like to use FF. My favorite way to use it is to get real close to my main subject like a leaf or flower, assuming it will focus that close, stop down to about f/11. This makes the main subject seem huge in comparison to the background. Expanded perspective.

Thanks.Looking forward to experimenting with this technique.

One thing to consider for astro photography is a lenses ability to correct for coma. It will be really noticeable with the thoudands of points of light.
And of course w/ interiors the ability to correct distortion with super wide angles. When I shot interiors I found best results with the camera level, as opposed to tilting down or up, to lessen stretching the room unless you're using it for creative reasons.
With landscapes all is fair for creative exaggeration of landscape.
Lens corner sharpness is critical on all three types of photography you mention.

Helpful. All important factors I will look for.

 

[NiagaraJim]

I finally pulled the trigger on the purchase of a shorter (wider) lens by ordering the Samyang 14mm f2.8 EF (manual focus). Prior to this my shoretest was 24mm on the 24-105. I plan to use it full frame for astro, landscapes and interiors.

I know there are several considerations when going wider and I am interested in advice.

If want to make an interesting test get real close to front quarter of your car, it should look longer than it is the image. Wide angle lenses are great for car shows as you be up close and get the whole car in the frame.

 

[photoflyer]

If want to make an interesting test get real close to front quarter of your car, it should look longer than it is the image. Wide angle lenses are great for car shows as you be up close and get the whole car in the frame.

Great idea! I have a young man who's in college doing some carpentry work around the house. He is restoring his grandfather's 1960s vintage pickup truck. I was hoping to give him some interesting photos of the truck. I'll definitely try this.