another plz help the noob post (sorry pps)

lorigon27

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ok to make it short and sweet---
i am trying to be able to shoot some photos of ppl in my dining room (15x15 area), theres a little 5 blubl chandelier off the cieling.
i went to walmart and bought a black sheet and hung it up on a window to use as a backdrop.
i have at my disposle 2 500 watt tungstan constant lamps (inter fit E-Z lites), 580exII, 430 EXII speed lights.
anyway one of you could break it down a little simple on what i should be trying to get with what i have:er:
maybe some examples of good quality i could achieve?

for the next couple weeks i will not be able to shoot till after dark when i get home--im not sure if i should have the overhead lights on, or just the lamp combo with the flashes

thx in advance!!
 
ok to make it short and sweet---
i am trying to be able to shoot some photos of ppl in my dining room (15x15 area), theres a little 5 blubl chandelier off the cieling.
i went to walmart and bought a black sheet and hung it up on a window to use as a backdrop.
i have at my disposle 2 500 watt tungstan constant lamps (inter fit E-Z lites), 580exII, 430 EXII speed lights.
anyway one of you could break it down a little simple on what i should be trying to get with what i have:er:
maybe some examples of good quality i could achieve?

for the next couple weeks i will not be able to shoot till after dark when i get home--im not sure if i should have the overhead lights on, or just the lamp combo with the flashes

thx in advance!!

What camera are you using? Are you attempting to use TTL? What kind of people shots are you trying to do? Do you have any modifiers? Are you trying to capture ambient?

It's difficult to give advice with so little information.
 
There are a million things you can do, so my advice is only one possible path to take.

I have such little reliance in the wireless triggering of the EX speedlights (from experience), I am reluctant to suggest you start with them unless you have a set of radio triggers. And because the 500w halogens are so bright and constant, perhaps it will be easier to learn light by using them. Just be careful that you don't create a great reliance on having to SEE the light while you set your light positions. To avoid this, leave the halogens unplugged/turned off until you THINK you have it close.

First, turn off the overhead light. You do not want to mix light color accidentally. 99% of the time, color mixing only works when you plan it.

Second, create a custom white balance with your halogens. Use a piece of white cloth or paper, properly exposed. Read the manual if you don't know how to do this.

Assuming your walls are white, bounce the light off a wall to create a soft key light. Just stick with one light to keep it simple. The wall becomes a much larger (and therefore weaker) light source which creates a much softer, more pleasing light. The transition between highlights and shadows becomes much more gradual. This is known as "soft" light.

Start out shooting just one person, head & shoulders. Position them so they are 45 degrees to the wall, so the light reflecting off the wall is kind of raking across their face. Now, try having them face at different angles. Take shots along the way. A tripod and remote control might be beneficial here.

Also, notice how as you get them closer to the light source (the wall, not the halogen), you have be bring down the exposure which makes the background darker in relation. This is related to a characteristic of light known as falloff. This is important to understand... not necessarily the math involved, but the principle.

Here is a diagram....

Creator / Home - Online Lighting Diagram Creator - Tools for photographers
Play around with just this one light setup. You will learn a LOT by experimenting and then analyzing the results and trying to figure out WHY the results are the way they are.
 
Adding-don't hang your sheet over a window that isn't first covered with a light blocking curtain. The light will shine through it.
 

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