B&W Chemicals?

Discussion in 'The Darkroom' started by Brundo, Oct 29, 2015.

  1. Brundo

    Brundo TPF Noob!

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    So, I have a few rolls of B&W film that I want to develop. However I only have C-41 chemicals (I started out doing color). Anyways I figured I would pick the brains of those more experienced than I. So what chemicals/supplies do I need for B&W developing?


     
  2. timor

    timor Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    There is quite a few possibilities. And a few different ideas how to. Depends on what film you have and how much trouble you are ready to go through. D76 is the most common proposal. It doesn't mean is the best, far from it. But in skilled hands not bad. Then there is Rodinal, even older formula, which made full circle and it is very usable nowadays for slower films like ISO 100 and less. Above ISO 100 the grain starts to be visible. There is HC110, standing somewhere in the middle. One can't go wrong with HC110. There are also few modern developers like TMAX Dev.
    Look here and your head will start to spin:
    http://www.freestylephoto.biz/category/12-Chemicals/Black-and-White-Chemicals?attr[]=30-143
    If you have few rolls and each is of different film and you want easy solution this is the simplest solution:
    http://www.freestylephoto.biz/16128-Acufine-Diafine-Powder-Film-Developer-1-Gallon
    Of course for that money you can get enough metol, sodium sulfit and borax to mix on your own many gallons of two bath developer, but that is up to you, you know better, what make you smile. :adoration:
     
  3. sabbath999

    sabbath999 No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    I am an old-school guy, I use D-76, Kodak indicator stop-bath, Kodak Fixer and Kodak Hypo-Clear, and Kodak Photo-Flo wetting agent.

    Is it the best? Dunno, but all of it is made in the USA and I like keeping jobs here.
     
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  4. Brundo

    Brundo TPF Noob!

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    For the most part I shoot Kodak tri-x 400. However I do shoot a bit of lomography's stuff, and some other odd ball films. Grain does not bother me any in fact I love grainy film.
     
  5. gsgary

    gsgary Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    You should try Rodinal it loves Tri X
     
  6. Brundo

    Brundo TPF Noob!

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    Okay. So other than the developer, what fixer/stopper/ wetting agent would you all recommend?
     
  7. timor

    timor Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    Any. This things are indifferent in the beginning. Anything will do the basic job. Get whtever your local store has on the shelf.
     
  8. timor

    timor Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    I am afraid, that now this stuff is made in Germany. By Tetenal.
     
  9. Brundo

    Brundo TPF Noob!

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    Thanks for the speedy replies. I appreciate it.
     
  10. timor

    timor Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    Good luck !
     
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  11. Brundo

    Brundo TPF Noob!

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    One last question. C41 developer can be reused. Is the same true of rodinal or D76? Can everything else be reused? Sorry for all the noob questions.
     
  12. timor

    timor Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    It is OK to ask, sharing knowledge for some is a pleasure.
    OK. Now we go into little deeper stuff. D76 in full strength is reusable developer. But there is a little hook. Each time you develop in it you must do it a little bit longer to compensate for the used up part of the mix. How much longer ? Nobody will tell you for sure, it is a matter of individual experience. Sure, there are tables and estimates, but at the end, everyone has to judge for himself. The whole thing with b&w film development is very much individual thing. The only method which works in similar way is tow bath developer: no matter what temperature, no matter what ISO film as long as it is properly exposed, everything in the same tank for the same 5 minutes constant agitation bath 1 and 5 minutes stand in bath 2. D76 if used with Kodak recommendations will give you developed negative where printing will be possible, but it might be far from ideal and use of it will require some calibration and adjustments to yours specific conditions. (Water, thermometer, way of agitation...) Using D76 as a one shot developer diluted 1+1 with water will give repeatable results once the proper procedure is established, no need for time adjustments for the usage. One shot stand development in let say Rodinal removes even the need to establish procedure, 2 degrees this way or that way, 3 minutes longer or shorter do not have much influence on results, however results are specific. But you might very well like them, like thousands happy users of Rodinal.
    It is big world, many choices, even now at the down of the era, very interesting. My latest experiments are with Fujifilm Acros 100 developed in X-ray film developer, stand for 22 minutes. Grain is so fine I cant find it in my grain focuser under enlarger. Will post for you print made today from it if you want. But only print, I don't have film scanner. LOL
     
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chemicals used to print black and white photos