Black/White Old House

Hmm, why is the house cut off? Crop is odd, feels too tight.
 
I like the angle and the sky.. the dark tones look good for me.. especially the tree..
 
This may sound silly, but would you mind posting a specific workflow for one of these images? I also have a D7000 and the same software you use, but my HDR comes out quite differently. This type of image is exactly the PP style I'm going for with my architectural and RE photography (though not b&w obviously). If you're willing to be very specific, I'd greatly appreciate it.
 
This may sound silly, but would you mind posting a specific workflow for one of these images? I also have a D7000 and the same software you use, but my HDR comes out quite differently. This type of image is exactly the PP style I'm going for with my architectural and RE photography (though not b&w obviously). If you're willing to be very specific, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Sure no problem I am here to help when I can,

First photomatix as most do. When in photomatix I decide what ever subject I want to push and I tweak the sliders around that even if some of the areas do not look good because I will fix it in photoshop with pp.

Next I will bring in my tonemapped image and also will bring in a few other versions of that image one being vivid and shadow mapped. I will also bring in the original exposures all into the layer panel. From there I will set my main tonemapped version on top. and view it and see what I parts failed in photomatix and then make it a layer mask. I will decide from my vibrant tone mapped and shadow mapped images what and if I need to pull anything back in. Each time I do I will combine that layer with the original tonemapped image. After I am done with those three photomatix tonemapped files I will then move onto the original exposures and if I have haloing going on I will create a layer mask with the tonemapped file and choose a original exposure to remove the haloing. If I have blown out areas of course I will select the according exposure to remove it. In some cases I will duplicate and adjust the one of the original exposures so it blends better or even go as far as tonemapping a single image in photomatix so it looks right and then use it as an underlaying mask. Once I am done with these steps picking and choosing what I want from all layers I will flatten the image. I will then duplicate image and use auto color and see how it looks. Sometimes I have to change opacity of not use it at all. IF I use it I then will flatten layer. Next usually will turn to Nik color effex and some of my favorite filters are pro contrast, tonal contrast, brilliance and warmth and glamour glow. I sometimes will layer those creating a custom preset and use control points in areas that I do not like.
Next depending if there is lot on noise or grain I will sometimes use Topaz denoise. But I will duplicate layer and apply to that layer. I will create a layer mask with that denoise layer and fill it with black and get my paint brush using white and paint in the areas that need some help. I use to use the whole image without this step but after a while you start to see things look to smooth. IMOP I would rather have a little grain and or noise and with a sharper look than something that is so smooth it takes away the textures..Next I will decide whether I want to use high pass sharpening or not. If I do I will duplicate the flattened layer and select filters/other/high pass with about1-1.5% and select linear light in the blending mode. Now this will apply sharpening as a global adjustment and I do not want that so I will first adjust the opacity of the sharpness that I like and then make it a layer mask fill with black and paint the areas that will benefit from a bit of sharpneing. One thing I have seen with photomatix and HDR that it makes things a bit soft and flat so I will fix that. Last step I will create either a selective colors layer or hue and saturation and select certain colors that I want to push or tone down. With this house I chose to use the levels option and adjusted the blacks and mid tones.

Every image is different and the work flow changes but one thing is for certain you can expect that will use Nik color effex for tones and contrast areas. I like it more than topaz adjust because of the control points and its faster! Not every photo will I make three tonemapped versions, not every photo will i use all the og exposures but the basic work flow is somewhat similar.

My next approach is going to focus on trying not to rely to much with color adjustments so the photos are not so vibrant and more subtle and believable. I am constantly changing my work flow. If you would have asked me this question a mont ago it would be a little different. I use to use bleach bypass filter and details extractor faithfully but now those are on the back burner unless I want a grungier feel or want more texture pushed but still will mask out areas I do not want.

I would say bottom line is that I use layer masks like crazy............

I hope this helps and it was not to confusing. Writing and showing are two different things.

Cheers!
 
It looks amazing to me. One of the best I have seen on this site. But I am a newbie
 
As Vipgraphx has nicely illustrated, if there is a secret skill needed to render good HDRs, it is the creative use of layer masks.
 
Fantastic instructions. I have never used layer masks with my HDR.... You really should record your screen the next time you do one of these. I'd gladly give 15 minutes to watch you do your thing. Anyhow, thanks for your time answering my question!
 

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