black & white..

Willsphoto63

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Hello Everyone,
I am looking for someone who can provide me with assistance regarding the use of Black and White 35mm film. Actually, what I am more interested in is the settings I should set my Canon AT-1 SLR at while taking photos of a wedding while using ILFORD 400 iso film. I understand about the stopping down process and most likely will set my camera to 1600 ISO which will give me somewhat of a grainy photo(s) with a average f-stop of 8 or 11. Depending of course, on how clear I wish to have the faces or back ground to be.
I understand that using a f5.6 would provide good detail in close up facial pictures.
Any corrective argument would be greatly appreciated!
Oh! and I should mention, No flash! (...as I simply do not own one)
Thanks!
Will
 
Stopping a lens down to f/5.6 to f/11 may create a sharper image, but that may not be a good thing with close-up face shots.

The process you're referring to as 'stopping down' is called 'pushing' or 'push-processing' a roll of film. It can be done quite easily, but you need to remember a couple things. One, it must be applied to the entire roll. You can't pick and choose which frames on a roll you want to 'push'.

Second, you'll either need to develop the film yourself or find a lab that can push-process the film. Not all labs offer the service.
 
Probably going to depend on how dark an indoor wedding would be. I'd probably expect to need to use the lens at a fairly open aperture to get enough light unless the venue is pretty bright for indoors. I don't usually push or pull so others could help with that.

I try to notice where in the room the light looks the brightest, or where I can stand and figure out the best vantage point to get the most light coming into the camera. It may seem bright enough, but may still be lower light for the camera.
 
Stopping a lens down to f/5.6 to f/11 may create a sharper image, but that may not be a good thing with close-up face shots.

The process you're referring to as 'stopping down' is called 'pushing' or 'push-processing' a roll of film. It can be done quite easily, but you need to remember a couple things. One, it must be applied to the entire roll. You can't pick and choose which frames on a roll you want to 'push'.

Second, you'll either need to develop the film yourself or find a lab that can push-process the film. Not all labs offer the service.
Hi and thank you for your reply! I appreciate your comment. Good to know that the film once has been pushed to 1600 stays at 1600.. re; f/5.6 t0 f/11 - I thought it was the other way around.. So you suggest I stick with perhaps a f/8 for facial closeups or f/5.6?
I forgot to mention in my original thread that the lenses I have chosen are a 20mm wide angle and a 50mm. I do have a 2x converter but don't know if I'll put it to use.
Thanks again for your reply!
Will
 
Probably going to depend on how dark an indoor wedding would be. I'd probably expect to need to use the lens at a fairly open aperture to get enough light unless the venue is pretty bright for indoors. I don't usually push or pull so others could help with that.

I try to notice where in the room the light looks the brightest, or where I can stand and figure out the best vantage point to get the most light coming into the camera. It may seem bright enough, but may still be lower light for the camera.
Hi, and thank you for your reply. As always, I greatly appreciate everyone who replies back. Good advise (...much like yours!) is priceless and of Great help!
Thanks again and I will definitely keep your suggestion close at hand during the big day!
Will :)
 
You may not have much choice when it comes to aperture. Given you're shooting film, you'll be stuck with one ISO (unless you have two bodies....). And you can only go so slow with the shutter before you're forced to start opening the aperture.

Without knowing the light levels, it's impossible to say what aperture you'll need to shoot at.
 
There is no way you will be able to shoot at F8 even if you underexpose the film at iso1600, if your in a room with a window for light and iso400 film you can usually set the camera to F2.8 1/60 thats what one of my favourite photographers (Jane Bown) always used, I have tried it many times and it works perfect
 

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