Budget crisis...

That said, do you think that this would be a good investment for my night-time shots of Ultimate Frisbee games? Or indoor soccer games? I'm trying drastically to stay below 800 ISO so my images aren't so grainy.
 
On the craigslist ad, does Sigma actually make a f/2.8-4.0 in the 70-200? I did a ton of research on the Sigma 70-200 and I've never seen that. It may be that the aperture is wrong.

As a side note to Destin: Judging from your wishlist of the D7K and 300mm f/4, I'd recommend trying the your D7K with the 70-200 at 4.0 and 12800 ISO before getting the f/4. I use the D7K and cannot imagine shooting f/4.0 at night, so I'd recommend you check the limitations before you drop the money on the lens.
 
Do you have a kit lens? Why don't you bring it and shoot at the highest iso you can just so you can see what focal range most of your shots are falling into. That will give you a much better idea of which lens to look at... Better yet, set it to about 50mm and then look at those pics and see if they're going to give you enough of a usable crop at all field distances. My guess is a 50mm isn't going to be nearly enough if you want some close action... and to echo what's already been said, you're not going to find a good prime that's going to have adequate perspective throughout the entire field you're trying to shoot - this is why they make zoom lenses ;)
 
Do you have a kit lens? Why don't you bring it and shoot at the highest iso you can just so you can see what focal range most of your shots are falling into. That will give you a much better idea of which lens to look at... Better yet, set it to about 50mm and then look at those pics and see if they're going to give you enough of a usable crop at all field distances. My guess is a 50mm isn't going to be nearly enough if you want some close action... and to echo what's already been said, you're not going to find a good prime that's going to have adequate perspective throughout the entire field you're trying to shoot - this is why they make zoom lenses ;)

Well, I understand that completely. And I agree. I guess I'll just do some experimenting tomorrow and find out whether or not I should get the 50 or 85.

On a SIDE NOTE: Would the 50mm be good for anything other than portrait shots? What do people usually use the 50mm 1.8 for?
 
Hey I sent you a PM


Do you have a kit lens? Why don't you bring it and shoot at the highest iso you can just so you can see what focal range most of your shots are falling into. That will give you a much better idea of which lens to look at... Better yet, set it to about 50mm and then look at those pics and see if they're going to give you enough of a usable crop at all field distances. My guess is a 50mm isn't going to be nearly enough if you want some close action... and to echo what's already been said, you're not going to find a good prime that's going to have adequate perspective throughout the entire field you're trying to shoot - this is why they make zoom lenses ;)

Well, I understand that completely. And I agree. I guess I'll just do some experimenting tomorrow and find out whether or not I should get the 50 or 85.

On a SIDE NOTE: Would the 50mm be good for anything other than portrait shots? What do people usually use the 50mm 1.8 for?
 
If you do not mind Manual focus a Vivitar 70-150 f3.8 close focus fits nicely with what you want to shoot & well within your price range. I have one & can say it is a sharp lens but a tad heavy. Here is one of several on eBay:

Vivitar 70-150mm f/3.8 macro Nikon non-AI lens nice | eBay
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
50 mm is at the low end of the portraiture lens focal length range, though for groups, like an Ultimate team, you may actually need even shorter focal lengths.

When you crop, you discard pixels and reduce image resolution, which should be avoided as much as possible.
 
Frisbee action may be hard with slow focus or manual foces lenses? Elephant Polo excluded, they may be easy to focus on quickly
bigthumb.gif
 
Ron Evers said:
If you do not mind Manual focus a Vivitar 70-150 f3.8 close focus fits nicely with what you want to shoot & well within your price range. I have one & can say it is a sharp lens but a tad heavy. Here is one of several on eBay:

Vivitar 70-150mm f/3.8 macro Nikon non-AI lens nice | eBay

I'll have to check it out. Thanks.

PS: I have no problem shooting with manual zoom lenses.

EDIT: One problem: with an f/3.8 I feel like it wouldn't be much of an improvement from shooting with my 4-5.6 70-200...
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Action sports were routinely photographed before the invention of auto focus.

Yes sir, I'm sure everything was. But I truly suspect faster and auot focusing stuff may serve him better capturing the action?
bigthumb.gif
 
Here is my take about spending a lot of $$ on lens. Really, if you buy a nice lens, it will retain its value. It is not that bad of an investment. Find your self a good deal on CL, you sell it again next year, you should be able to sell it for the same price! It is like pretty much borrowing a lens for $0. Just dont break it or get it stolen!

For example I bought a canon 70-200 f/2.8L IS for $1200, I just sold it last week for $1400. Yes, I did get lucky and made $200 but I could have easily sold it for how much i paid for it.

The worst thing you can do is buy a cheap plastic lens new. The lens is worth 60% of what you paid for when you try to sell it if you are lucky.

DISCLAIMER: If the camera manuf. came up with a new mounting system, then everything I said is not true :).
 
Ron Evers said:
If you do not mind Manual focus a Vivitar 70-150 f3.8 close focus fits nicely with what you want to shoot & well within your price range. I have one & can say it is a sharp lens but a tad heavy. Here is one of several on eBay:

Vivitar 70-150mm f/3.8 macro Nikon non-AI lens nice | eBay

I'll have to check it out. Thanks.

PS: I have no problem shooting with manual zoom lenses.

EDIT: One problem: with an f/3.8 I feel like it wouldn't be much of an improvement from shooting with my 4-5.6 70-200...

It is a constant f3.8 so will be faster at any focal length than your 70-200.

Another inexpensive but shorter option is a Tokina 35-105/3.5-4.3. This manual lens is greatly underrated & sells for peanuts on eBay. I used it on holidays for the convenience over primes that I would normally use. Here are samples from that lens:


1.

P1060843sm.jpg




2.

P1060916sm.jpg




3.

P1060839sm.jpg
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.

Most reactions

New Topics

Back
Top